Hi again, I found the info, the Denny’s sheet is dated 11/4/2013; J-Y Chouinard took a lot of the precision measurements, we worked on this together, I filled in the order blanks, but it evolved over time . So check with them . Some critical info: Bolt pattern is 3.250 bolt circle X 2.488 and X 2.088 between bolts (rectangle) on the correct adapter, 4” ID pilot ring on trans surrounds it, projects up 1/8”,all that fit ok. ; on F and G , Denny’s type of shaft order sheets # F is closest to this shaft but not right , marked it up to show bolts and no center pilot (#28 is flat) and used it for conveying the info, item 32, overall length is 60 5/8” (F and G) . On back yoke, had to use 58 up pinion yoke on 57 (some smaller ones early on), no locating tabs, item 30 on back U joint is 3.326, (the bottom line) but this must be checked on what you have, had some confusion about back U joints. ; For 300C overall length ( # 32) is 60 15/16 . Hope this helps. John Bob, can send a copy of sketch, etc by mail if you want. I hope they have a record of the order From: John Grady [mailto:jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2017 11:50 AM To: 'Jim Rhoades'; 'Bob Merritt' Cc: 'Mike McCandless'; 'Chrysler 300 List' Subject: RE: Re[2]: [Chrysler300] 300G ball and trunnion boot replacement Hi, Jim, I worked this out with Denny’s Driveshafts; there is a special adapter casting used on a Winnebago from the 4 bolts directly to a spicer joint, then a custom driveshaft with a splined axial slip joint on front (latter are standard pieces). I had them make all new rather than modify the 300 shaft. the back joint is Chrysler not spicer. (measure size) ; Ours are tapered, but went with Denny’s recommendation. There are two bolt pattern sizes of adapter for the two Detroit joints mopar used, we need the larger one. I did, I think 3 or 4 , 2-F and a C or D ; again from memory was surprised they are within a ¼” or something, same length might work on CDE, F and G , spline has a lot of engagement, but I kept it exact per Denny’s charts, that you fill out. . I had thought of making and selling these in club, but gets pricey. I wish I had the data handy but do not –will look for it; they may have a record under J Grady. Use my name, they might recall all that, quite a bit of interaction. They are good people. ; end result perfect. NO vibration is a 300F! I had fought driveshaft vibration in various F over the years, wasted a lot of money listening to talk of balance, pinion angles etc etc etc. However had one Detroit that was OK. The pin has to be perfectly centered and all unworn parts, just does not happen most of the time . Given the time and hassle fighting the Detroit joint, conversion makes sense to me, and no boot to fight with. ..and apparently to Winnebago. Apparently too, Winnebago used the drum brake set up , or 4 bolt flange with no drum, well into 70’s on 727 (tailshaft must be like 62 or 63-65 trans, I have never seen it. ). Best regards, John From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Jim Rhoades jrhoades47@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] Sent: Monday, April 03, 2017 9:36 AM To: Bob Merritt Cc: Mike McCandless; Chrysler 300 List Subject: Re: Re[2]: [Chrysler300] 300G ball and trunnion boot replacement Has anyone replaced the ball and trunnion with a driveshaft that has a u joint and if so how is that working? Thanks Jim Rhoades Pueblo Co. Sent from my iPad On Apr 3, 2017, at 5:32 AM, 'Bob Merritt' bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: The boot is available from Mark Sherman at email: silkwormgrub@xxxxxxxxxxx or 207-809-6911 He has an ad for it (with picture) at our parts for sale page http://www.chrysler300club.com/rcmstuff/partsforsale.html and there is a video of the installation at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_bPuoUrN5Wc <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_bPuoUrN5Wc&feature=youtu.be> &feature=youtu.be ------ Original Message ------ From: "Mike McCandless" <my65cuda@xxxxxxx> To: "John Grady" <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Cc: "rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx" <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>; "bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" <bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>; "chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx" <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: 4/2/2017 4:25:11 PM Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 300G ball and trunnion boot replacement Who remakes the boot? Mike On Apr 2, 2017, at 3:45 PM, 'John Grady' jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: Hi, Bob, If running without a needle, it has probably destroyed the hardened surface they roll on , on the pin. This polished surface is critical to needle bearings as there is no hardened inner race like a ball bearing . It is also possible even probable at some point in the distant past some dirt got in, causing one needle to jam and then skid, grinding it up. That ground up metal dust would get into all the rest of it and score the pin surface too. Once you have caps off inspect pin for mirror finish, same look on both sides. Possibly measure with micrometer or look for scratches or surface damage . Most rebuild kits include a new pin, housing , pads and caps for this reason. The new pin MUST be centered to ideally less than .001 on a press fit or it vibrates . best done by machine shop… and then checked till perfect . The needle housings also wear on the sides that slide in housing, again causing vibration, and the little pads at the ends. Also worn places form like dents in outer housing where they sit most of the time . Any looseness leads to vibration. Be forewarned there are two sizes of these , not sure when or why, but smaller one than on our 300 is very common , probably Mopar for Plymouth or Dodge like 30’s to mid fifties. That caused me a lot of grief, had 5 wrong ones on shelf . . Housing is bigger and pin longer . you might need the whole kit, as failure in needles is in fact how u joints do fail…Sounds like this one was on the way, maybe due to torn boot. Front wheel bearing grease has fibers dispersed in it….might be better with non fibrous grease like clean front end grease..or see FSM?? Not sure which one, but one year has a lot of info on checking this. They had vibration issues. John From: <mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [ <mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of 'Bob Jasinski' <mailto:rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx> rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2017 3:12 PM To: 'Bob Merritt' Cc: <mailto:chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] 300G ball and trunnion boot replacement Bob, Thank you for the feedback on the needle count, your suggestion makes perfect sense to me. The thing that is odd to me, and the reason I asked about the needle count, is that the bearing side with 31 needles feels just fine but the bearing with 30 needles seams stiff, doesn't turn easily, and does not readily slide off the pin as it should. I suspect the missing needle has somehow caused this. At this point, I'm going to try and find new bearings and install them before I put it all back together. I will count the needles in the new bearings before I install them, and post what I find. Bob J From: Bob Merritt [ <mailto:bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> mailto:bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2017 4:45 AM To: Bob Jasinski < <mailto:rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx> rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 300G ball and trunnion boot replacement Hello Bob; I have some drive shaft bearing kits out in the warehouse I could dig one out and count needles but let me use my noggin and say the answer is likely 31. Although I have changed a buncha boots and done the bearings I have never counted needles. I know both cups should be crammed full of needles such that a cup with a full set of needles will have no space for another needle. I bet your cup with 30 needles has room for #31 needle and your cup with 31 has no room for #32 needle......if you follow my foggy early morning English. It would be hard to imagine one cup full at 30 needles while the other side full at 31. If you need one needle bearing, let me know. I am pretty sure I have a spare from which I draw needles to replace ones I have lost. Great boots from Mark Sherman. I am so glad he supplies them. My guess on your high temp grease is it is more than required but won't hurt anything. Grease requirements for a wheel bearing should be way above anything required by a needle bearing. Hiho R ------ Original Message ------ From: "'Bob Jasinski' <mailto:rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx> rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" < <mailto:Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> To: <mailto:chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Sent: 4/1/2017 3:36:14 PM Subject: [Chrysler300] 300G ball and trunnion boot replacement I am in the process of replacing my deteriorated boot on the front of my 300G driveshaft with a replacement from Mark Sherman (thanks Mark). I've got the new boot in fine through the housing, but I am concerned about the needle bearings. I've counted both sides, and it appears I have 31 needles in one side and 30 in the other. Anyone out there know the correct number of needles that should be in there? also, is it OK to use hi-temp wheel bearing grease for lube? Bob J 300G convert _._,___ [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ Posted by: "John Grady" <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> ------------------------------------ To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or go to https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/all/manage/edit For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang ------------------------------------ Yahoo Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join (Yahoo! 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