Following might be controversial, spearing sacred cows!! Working on set like that now. Most you will find are rounded stuck etc . Some one ground or filed this set i have to square shape . Use open end . ( you can do that once cam is free to restore function, if that is close in goal, but to do right have to be off the car ?) . I was looking at a way to fix. It looks like you could press a 1/2 20 nut in a big hydraulic press onto stud with some finessing . Hole in backing plate would have to be made larger to pass it . Have not looked at that part yet . Then weld center . Ground weld clamp to nut not plate keep current out of cam . Trying to understand these brakes better . Grossly inept things " rebuilding" them cause problems . More coming ! First reaction on some new info --/ never turn drums + keep old shoes if 1/2 left . Circular wear scratches in drums hurt nothing . I think at times we cause ourselves problems with new shoes unless arc ground shoes . Turning the drums requires that . But those machines are all gone around here due to asbestos dust . Better old worn -in shoes rebuild cylinders etc that fit drums right than all new that are a different incorrect diameter . My 02 . Especially if not driven a lot . Spec is .003- .005 gap all along shoe. No way if you turn drums . 5000 miles of grabbing pulling and grief can result... Shoes touch in a patch instead of whole length . As well as rapidly dropping pedal . Not sure the 7 ft lb minimum force to turn is right either . If oiled to stop rust might be less . As near as i can tell if cam slips by itself it will tighten shoe . The way forces are . ( balanced by retainer when resting no net force on cam ) anyone have experience with shoes that tightened by themselves? Sent from my iPhone On Feb 10, 2016, at 5:32 AM, cv300g@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
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