[Chrysler300] Getting lubricated
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[Chrysler300] Getting lubricated
- From: "'Rich Barber' c300@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2015 23:45:06 -0800
Every once in a while I see a note that someone has "oiled" a threaded
fastener. Care should be taken to adjust (lower) applied torque to
fasteners with lubed threads. There must be many references on the net, but
I found this one easily and it looks rather comprehensive:
http://raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc14.html
Not quite New Years in CA, yet-but Happy New Year to all. I'm going to get
slightly lubricated myself so g'nite.
C300K'ly,
Rich Barber
The "real" Brentwood, CA
1964 Chrysler 300K
MOTORCYCLE BOLTS AND TORQUE SPECS
Always use the proper grade fastener. You should use at least grade 5
fasteners on almost everything on your motorcycle. Bolts are graded by
tensile strength and are easily identified by the number of slash marks on
the head of the bolt. The more marks the higher the quality. Hardware store
bolts with no markings on top are usually soft, mild steel, grade 2 quality
and should be avoided like the plague.
Another thing to watch is torque specs. A bolt that has been over tightened
can be just as lethal as one that hasn't been tightened enough. A bolt that
has been tightened beyond recommended torque specs can easily break in
service. In other words, the soft grade 2, 5/16-18 hardware store bolts that
are attaching the bottom of your sissy bar to the back legs of your rigid
frame are shaky enough to begin with, they get downright lethal when you
tighten them up as tight as you can get them with a couple of 10" wrenches.
Keep in mind that torque specs will be less for bolts that have oil or
lubrication on them than for clean, dry bolts. Use the following tables to
determine what grade of bolt you are working with and how tight to torque
it.
U.S. BOLT GRADES
SAE 2
SAE 5
SAE 7
SAE 8
2
5
7
8
SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREW
I.D. Marks
No markings
3 lines
5 lines
6 lines
Allen head
Material
Low carbon
Medium-carbon, tempered
Medium-carbon,
quenched & tempered
Medium-carbon, quenched & tempered
High-carbon, quenched & tempered
Tensile strength (Minimum)
74,000 psi
120,000 psi
133,000 psi
150,000 psi
160,000 psi
U.S. BOLT TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Torque in pounds-foot
2
2
5
5
7
7
8
8
Socket head
cap screw
Socket head
cap screw
Bolt
Dia.
Thread
per inch
Dry
Oiled
Dry
Oiled
Dry
Oiled
Dry
Oiled
Dry
Oiled
1/4
20
4
3
8
6
10
8
12
9
14
11
1/4
28
6
4
10
7
12
9
14
10
16
13
5/16
18
9
7
17
13
21
16
25
18
29
23
5/16
24
12
9
19
14
24
18
29
20
33
26
3/8
16
16
12
30
23
40
30
45
35
49
39
3/8
24
22
16
35
25
45
35
50
40
54
44
7/16
14
24
17
50
35
60
45
70
55
76
61
7/16
20
34
26
55
40
70
50
80
60
85
68
1/2
13
38
31
75
55
95
70
110
80
113
90
1/2
20
52
42
90
65
100
80
120
90
126
100
9/16
12
52
42
110
80
135
100
150
110
163
130
9/16
18
71
57
120
90
150
110
170
130
181
144
5/8
11
98
78
150
110
190
140
220
170
230
184
5/8
18
115
93
180
130
210
160
240
180
255
204
3/4
10
157
121
260
200
320
240
380
280
400
320
3/4
16
180
133
300
220
360
280
420
320
440
350
7/8
9
210
160
430
320
520
400
600
460
640
510
7/8
14
230
177
470
360
580
440
660
500
700
560
1
8
320
240
640
480
800
600
900
680
980
780
1
12
350
265
710
530
860
666
990
740
1060
845
BOLT TORQUE FACTORS
LUBRICANT OR PLATING
TORQUE CHANGES
Oil
Reduce torque 15% to 25%
Dry Film (Teflon or moly based)
Reduce torque 50%
Dry Wax (Cetyl alcohol)
Reduce torque 50%
Chrome plating
No change
Cadmium plating
Reduce torque 25%
Zinc plating
Reduce torque 15%
Baseline torque is calculated for a non-lubricated, un-plated bolt
<http://raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc14.html#top> p
From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of Michael Moore mmoore8425@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2015 4:29 PM
To: Ryan Hill <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: Chrysler300 <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 300H Intake manifold gasket replacement
Thanks Ryan,
That pretty well describes what I did except that I followed the Felpro
procedure and put sealer on the bottom of the valley gasket first and from
head to head on the front and rear of the valley, installed the gasket,
installed and snugged the front and rear clips, put sealer around the
intakes on the top of thegasket, then installed the intake manifold. I had
previously cleaned all mating surfaces thoroughly with carb cleaner and
emery cloth, had blown out all holes with brake cleaner, hand brushed the
screw threads, checked screw length on all screws to make sure none would
bottom out and oiled them.
I also did a dry assembly to make sure I had everything. The directions are
to have all bolts tight within 5 minutes of starting with the sealer.I did
my best and maybe made it, although I left off all the brackets, let it cure
overnight, then removed bolts as few at a time as possible, installed
brackets and torqued bolts.
One handy tool which was made to my Jaguar shop manual is a precision ground
hardened stainless steel 3/8 dia rod with one rounded (spherical). It is a
jewel for aligning manifold bolts, especially the one on my car which has
two brackets and a carb spring anchor stacked on top. I wrestled with that
for a few minuted until I remembered the Jaguar tool, and it was perfect. A
gentle tap and things moved quickly into alignment.I tightened the other
bolts , removed the tool and easily installed the last bolt.
Thanks again Mike
PS-I attribute this failure to:
1. The two center bolts in each side of the manifold were not at tight as
they should be. I do not know why.
2. Although all the high ribs on the old gasket were flattened, whenI
installed this back in 82, I doubt if I used any sealer based on looking at
the old valley gasket.
Tomorrow I'll start it.
On Dec 31, 2015, at 3:31 PM, Ryan Hill <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx
<mailto:ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx> > wrote:
Mike, I've had a lot of experience installing intake manifolds on B/RB
Mopars but have very little experience with Ram manifolds specifically. At
one point I had a 383 'problem' engine that had been decked and shaved and
goofed around with so much it would regularly start leaking internally
between the runners and the lifter valley. I ended up having to add
additional gaskets on either side of the valley tray, basically shims...long
story.
Anyway, after that I started to over think all my installations for a number
of years before realizing most engines require very little thinking at all.
Just make sure the surfaces are clean, apply a liberal amount of gasket
sealer in the corners, place the tray down followed immediately by the
manifold. Start the bolts to align everything, then torque it down from the
middle outward. If you use silicone on the mating surfaces, I found it helps
to not quite complete the torque sequence until the sealer has set. Unless
your heads and intake are not mating well, you shouldn't have a problem at
all.
Happy New Year everyone!
Ryan Hill
_____
CC: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: mmoore8425@xxxxxxx <mailto:mmoore8425@xxxxxxx>
From: Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
<mailto:Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2015 07:16:53 -0800
Subject: [Chrysler300] 300H Intake manifold gasket replacement
This is an FYI for all the folks who offered help how to make sure this
intake manifold remains sealed. My problem is there was no obvious problem,
so I missed something the last time I replaced it.
(Around 1988, while coming back from a show in Victoria BC, we developed a
bad case of valve recession causing a guide failure, hot exhaust coming out
of the valve cover etc. We got to Ray Doern's home in Portland and in his
back yard, pulled both heads that night. We got the heads to a machine shop
at 10 pm. We picked them at noon next day, painted them and installed them
wet. It was running that afternoon and we left at 7 the next morning.
Needless to say, I may have overlooked something back then.)
One of the issues which Jeff Carter raised was using gasket sealer on the
intake manifold valley gasket. There was one in particular he favored, but I
have been unable to raise him over the holidays. I asked here and got a lot
of good information. I went to my local NAPA store yesterday and checked on
the suggested sealers available, but remained undecided. I checked the
directions on each of them and, they all had one or more of the following
issues:
1. Specified to be NOT fuel resistant.
2. Specified to be hardening and permanent.
3. Not heat resistant.
I settled on a Powermatex product but did not use it.
But then I carefully read the directions on the tiny tube which came with
the Felpro gasket set. I noticed the application instruction drawings looked
like my intake and block, so I used it instead. By using a small bead, there
is just enough in that tiny tube to do exactly what they instruct you to do
(ends of valley head to head, underside intake ports, install gasket, tops
of intake ports.
We will see. I hope to have it running soon.Thanks for all the suggestions.
Mike Moore
300H
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
------------------------------------
Posted by: "Rich Barber" <c300@xxxxxxx>
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