Your suggestion about a scope for checking electrical output is a good one.
I have an old Bear scope (the big as a small car kind) that I picked up years
ago. Unfortunately it takes up to much room in my garage and has been moved to
the “tent” for years now. Diodes can be checked while the alternator is out, and
should have been done on the dealer replacement. Dealer rebuilt parts are not
always reliable though. I had the flickering gage thing at times on my G. It had
an electronic regulator on it too. The problem I found with it was that the
field terminal on the regulator was only fastened by one rivet, and would get
loose over time. Moving it around some stopped the swinging needle. Connections
that appear to be tight may not be good conductors either. Over time they
oxidize and don’t work as well. Sometimes it just takes removing the wire and
plugging it back in to fix. Other times the connector must be replaced. The
firewall plugs are the worst for this.
Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2015 9:59 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] Voltage regulating
Folks,
I have read with great interest the various e-mails on the above
subject. This has been discussed years previously, without successfully
resolving the issue, I think.
I have a 300-K on hand, plus a 1968 New Yorker. Previously had
another 300-K. Only the latter did not “blink” its headlights as it went
down the highway! Naturally the pulsing ammeter accompanied the
blinking. The one that did not blink/pulse had a mechanical voltage
regulator (I believe original Chrysler manufacture!). The other two now
have the electronic version (IF I remember correctly these were available
through our club member who is now gone) which helps but does not eliminate the
issue. Both only pulse the ammeter when the headlights are “on”.
High beams make the situation worse on the 1964, but tend to smooth out the
blinking/pulsing on the 1968. Both have had a special ground wire run from
the voltage regulator case to the bulk head ground where the ground wire from
the engine goes to the chassis. NO improvement.
Now of the two, I have had the 1968 since my Granddad died and left
it for me in 1971. For MANY years it was OK. Then the ammeter failed
and I replaced it (another story about a parts man who felt nothing could fail
in the ammeter). Still no issue with pulsing until the ALTERNATOR was
replaced (Chrysler Corp rebuilt unit, not a bargain parts store piece)!
Once that happened, I had the pulsing at the ammeter under most driving
conditions. The electronic voltage regulator tended to reduce that except
when I am driving with low beams on. I went through quite a few mechanical
and one other electronic voltage regulators trying to “fix” the problem.
I am not an electronics engineer. I DO have an opinion!
I am of the opinion the three diodes are not fully functioning correctly on the
alternator and a less than smooth current is produced (three phased currents to
look like a smooth 13 volt current or there abouts). I do not know anyone
that has the ability/equipment/knowledge to check this. I should think a
good EE with an oscilloscope could do so. By no means is it unique.
My friend, Galen Wollbrink, has it with his several old Chryslers. Almost
looks like these pulsing headlights on motorcycles these days.
Anyone with a good solution would surely be welcome to solve this
issue! Most of what I read and what I have tried only address accomodating
and lessening the issue, not really fixing it.
Thank you for hearing yet another “opinion”!
Tim Tomlinson __._,_.___ Posted by: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx> To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or go to https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/all/manage/edit For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang __,_._,___ |