Hmmm… My pump seems to keep buzzing but at a different pitch. Are you saying the solenoid keeps buzzing but produces no net flow? Once the hemi starts, the three-chamber Flowmasters drown out all little noises—and some of the big ones. Rich Barber (The other) Brentwood, 1955 C-300—sold to the man in Illinois 1964 300K convertible-work in progress. From: mgoodknight@xxxxxxxx [mailto:mgoodknight@xxxxxxxx] There's no risk of damage to the engine operated pump or to the electric diaphragm pump when using both pumps in the same line. The electric/solenoid pump does not need a bypass system to control or limit the pressure. It's the spring working against the diaphragm that provides the correct low pressure. The solenoid simply reloads the spring as the fuel is released from the pressurized chamber. When there is no longer any flow from the pump the oscillation of the solenoid-diaphragm-spring ceases. At least that's the way that most of our accessory pumps work. --------------Marshall Goodknight
I believe the way the electrical pump works on our ’55 C-300 is that it will pump through the mechanical fuel pump when the key is turned on and continue to do so until the bowls are full and the float valve shuts off the input. I can hear the pitch of the pump change when this happens and it make take 15-30 seconds. I know then that the engine is good to go. Give the accelerator pedal a couple of pumps to put some witch’s brew into the manifolds, pull the chokes out by 3/8†on a cold engine and it starts IMMEDIATELY. I don’t know why the manual chokes are on the car but assume it was hard starting while the car was earning its keep in the Colorado Springs area for 30 years. I think my fuel pump is a positive displacement pump, operated by an oscillating solenoid. It must have a bypass built into it to limit its outlet pressure. And, yes, I put my car at risk of a blown mechanical pump diaphragm that would allow gasoline to flow into the block. I did have the electric pump wired to only operate when I pressed an additional push button but the car acted a little starved so I changed it to full time. Now I see the poor operation may have been due to the ignition wire problem previously discussed. Rich B. From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of John Lazenby french_fryguy@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] Good thought Ryan but several of my cars don't have electric pumps and they are still failing. John Lazenby On Monday, March 2, 2015 2:16 PM, "Ryan Hill ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: John, with all due respect. You were just stating you're replacing your mechanical pumps annually on all but one of your cars. Are you certain it is only due to ethanol? Is it possible the failures are linked to pushing fuel through your mechanical pump while the engine is not cranking or running? To: ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx; pffkllc@xxxxxxx; jsnowosacki@xxxxxxxxx; fabe7445@xxxxxxxxxxxxx I've experienced zero problems with electric pumps. John Lazenby On Monday, March 2, 2015 12:56 PM, "Ryan Hill ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: Just a curious thought. Are any of you guys experiencing pump failures using electric auxiliary pumps to prime your systems? I know they're low volume pumps that are generally being used but wondered whether pushing fuel through a mechanical pump could do any damage to the valve/diaphram? To: french_fryguy@xxxxxxxxx; jsnowosacki@xxxxxxxxx; fabe7445@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Query, does Ethanol erode neoprene as well as lesser materials? I think the newer materials being used to rebuild fuel pumps may be more resistant. Comments will be appreciated. Pete Fitch In a message dated 3/2/2015 3:32:09 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
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