RE: [Chrysler300] Fwd: My 300H engine issues

["William Huff czbill@xxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

http://www.advanceddistributors.com/

http://www.ignitionengineering.com/distributor-rebuilding.html


There are places that will rebuild and/or recurve your distributor. 
It is not that difficult, although it is tedious, to do a pretty fair job
with a timing light and tachometer by checking the total advance, initial
advance and mechanical advance.  Any changes can be verified the
same way.  There are a number of articles on line from Mopar
Muscle  an others on how to reduce or increase total advance without
changing initial timing, as well as changing the rate of advance vs
RPM.

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/mopp-0809-distributor-setup-quick-tech/

http://www.moparchat.com/forums/archive/index.php?t-85316.html

http://www.moparstyle.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-5340.html



Bill Huff


At 11:16 AM 1/14/2015, 'John Grady' jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
wrote:
>   
>
> Agree, done all the time on hi po /race; but can induce WOT knocking at
> 2k rpm or so, and higher, but factory rate is conservative. There is
> room. Problem with doing this is none of those ?stronger springs? come
> with any calibration. (how much stronger?) Stronger changes rate of rise
> (slower rise actually) so you make that up with more initial lead. Has
> the effect you describe. Brutal to iterate it by pulling distributor in
> and out , in fact impossible due to frustration, if you are honest about
> it. You are never sure what you really did. Need old sun distributor
> machine to do right. I even sent Chrysler a letter 15 years ago..their
> own ?upgrade kit? for electronic ignition does not have an advance curve
> shown to you,  and their kit of springs is 3-4 springs with no curve
> info. My reaction: Garbage. Made a little noise as they hit the trash
> can. Same ?hi po? curve for hemi, B and A block? Garbage.
>
>  
>
> After a lot of screwing around, you need about 13-15 initial , but MUST
> change distributor to limit internal to about 15 too,  (low 30?s
> total, obviously no vacuum). Knowing that, still do not know what
> specific spring is right. Stock light spring is OK if advance limited is
> what I did, what I did on another engine, blocked slot travel with braze
> or weld . (tried screw,  no room­the slot is hardened
> steel)
>
>  
>
> Kind of related and others may have more info, the two springs are not
> what is often said they are. The heavy wire one really is a dead stop,
> (with elongated slot on one end. It stops the light one from advancing
> more, at maybe 3k rpm. Trying to figure this out with no info is brutal)
>
>  
>
> Reminds me of all the hot rod advice that says: ?recurved distributor? ;
> now I know lees than I did a minute ago. You need the curve!
>
>  
>
> All this very general info..your mileage may vary..
>
>  
>
> PS,. Studeaker has a nice big graph of this in every service manual since
> at least 1950, sorted by distributor app. Even an acceptable error band
> is shown. Nothing from Chrysler except initial set and a few points. And
> 50 dif

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Posted by: William Huff <czbill@xxxxxxxxxx>

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