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When I got my 1st '57 300C in 1980, the car had seemingly been sitting unused since the early 70s. The southern California Los Angeles sun had chewed/ruined the paint/leather, but the car had no rust, so it had not been damp/wet. But even so, just as described here, the power window motors would not turn/run with 12V applied.
What I found was the '57 motors use a bush on the lower end that can corrode/lock onto the shaft - and it then is a bugger to easily/actually pull the motor apart due to how this bush is held in the outer housing without harming/wrecking how that bush is held in. If Ray's 'tapping' suggestion below does not fix your motor, and if you then also cannot spin by hand the part of the shaft sticking out of the motor, then my guess is your problem may be a bush frozen to the shaft, and if so, maybe just get another later but same motor from a junkyard, as I found those seized to shaft end bushes can be a real pain freeing without wrecking how it(bush) held in, Christopher in Australia To: sa-noia@xxxxxxxxxxx; 1970hurst@xxxxxxxxx CC: jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx; gnelson@xxxxxxxxxxxx; terrymct999@xxxxxxxxx; chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2014 14:41:52 -0500 Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Power Window Gearbox Failure What I have found over the too many years I have worked on these critters, is that "Use 'em or lose "em" Applies. Usually, it they don't work it's because corrosion or just plain dirt have covered the commutator and the brushes can not pass the power. Often, when one window would not work I would just slam the panel with my hand while working the switch and the jarring would be enough to start it running. Then I would just operate it for a while to clean the contact area. Fixed many of them that way. Another thing touched on in these answers is the tracks. Silicone the crap out of them, literately using the straw, have silicone running down the tracks. Makes a huge difference. A key thing to remember here is that the motors are reversible. They have 2 wires into the motor and one is + and the other is -. the housing is not part of the electrical path. Many folks have tried to make them work by applying ground to the housing and then power to each contact. Won't work. Apply power to one contact and ground to the other. the Motor will run one way and if you switch the wires, it will run the other. Finally, these motors were used into the 90's in many Mopar models including trucks. I have found there are 2 styles, 1 for the LF and RR and the other is for the RF and LR. Those rear motors are often overlooked in junk or part cars, but you can take the rear motor from the opposite side to replace the door motor which is inop. Ray in Hot Mena. On Fri, Sep 5, 2014 at 12:23 PM, Anna F Noia sa-noia@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
-- Ray Jones. Y'all come on down an see us. Ya hear? __._,_.___ Posted by: christopher <thelastbestgenius@xxxxxxxxxxx> To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or go to http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join and select the "Leave Group" button For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang __,_._,___ |
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