I would carefully check to find out what the correct booster should be. In my case, it was lucky because I got into an argument with booster Dewey about whether it should have been black or cad plated. I ended up reading the section in the shop manual out loud to him. As soon as I hit the description line about "dual diaphragm", he said it was wrong. He sold me a correct core for $400 and I had him rebuild it. Mark, I am not qualified to have an opinion on 300F boosters. But on my 300H, I googled "Chrysler 300H" and found a bunch of pictures of engine compartments (had to search a bit). I saw some Hs had the dual diaphragm booster and some had the NAPA single diaphragm booster that scared the crap out of me for so many years. I just googled Chrysler 300F and looked at brake boosters and there definitely are at least three different types shown out there, including a bellows type, and a couple of huge single diaphragm type. There is probably a 300F consultant in the club who will have info. I would not believe any clubs interchange list until you check it out. Booster Dewey will likely have a core. Its Power Brake Booster Exchage, Portland, Oregon www.boosterdeweyexchange.com/ Good Luck! Mike Moore 300H On Aug 1, 2014, at 9:46 AM, Mark Souders <mrs954@xxxxxxx> wrote:
So, Mike, where did you get the correct booster?
Mark
-----Original Message----- From: Michael Moore mmoore8425@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> To: John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Cc: Don Verity <d.verity@xxxxxxx>; Terry Mctaggart <terrymct999@xxxxxxxxx>; Listserver Chrysler Club <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Fri, Aug 1, 2014 11:22 am Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 300F Brakes Again! My 300H "developed" that problem during restoration in 1985. It had the problem until 2012 when booster Dewey in Portland commented that I had the wrong vacuum booster for the car. One of the 300 clubs lists a NAPA p/n as a replacement and that is wrong because NAPA is wrong. It fits and half-a%% works. My 300H takes a dual diphragm booster and the NAPA p/n is a single diaphragm. The correct booster made a huge difference.
Mike Moore
300H
On Aug 1, 2014, at 6:39 AM, 'John Grady' jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Same thing I said, based on low pedal, way back..I think Don is right..you have a manual brake master cylinder in there ; I think they have narrower bore and longer stroke, to get same CC it moves more, but as I said in other email, brake pedal mechanical ratio is also different on parts under dash.
Thing must stop on a dime , with power working a manual cylinder! But more travel gives low pedal with low ratio power pedaI ; I had other problem, apparently (later dual) power master with 60 power pedal and no booster; unbelievably hard to stop car but pedal hardly moved. Cannot mix and match.
Did not know what Don adds,---- thought it was variants among suppliers, have seen both types ; I changed pedal ratio but (accidently, knowing this) kept power master, with higher ratio pedal, works ok, a little stiff. Do not have info handy, but check various bores. Looks the same outside . Apparently same thing on dual MC too .Good to know about all this
From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of 'Don Verity' d.verity@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 8:28 PM To: Terry Mctaggart; Listserver Chrysler Club Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 300F Brakes Again! Hi Terry,
Wrong master cylinder. Sounds like one for a manual brake car. You can only get them out with the unit in a vise.
Don Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 8:23 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] 300F Brakes Again!
Terry McTaggart here
in Dayton OH. New wheel cylinders, new master cylinder, new fluid, linings are great, all done by my local shop. And I myself jacked the car up and adjusted all the brakes. Car stops fine, but the pedal is low. Shop manual says the adjustment for this is the pushrod from the brake assembly thru the firewall into the master cylinder. But my car has a one-piece push rod, so there is no adjustment. So Murray Park sent me the correct two-piece pushrod. Inside the car, I disconnected the current pushrod from the brake pedal, but when I attempted to slide the pushrod out, it would not come out, even when I used considerable force. Looking at the manual, it should just slide out. Anybody got any ideas as to why it won't come out?
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