Hi, J-Y, Decided to send this exchange to list server, lots of hard earned info about gas gauge in this, might help others. "More than you ever wanted to know about gas gauges" ; taking tank in and out gets ,er, boring, fast..and messy. By being sure when float is down in bottom of tank you have 70-75 ohms and 10 to 15 ohms when up (up , or F accuracy, less important than 70 down, which is the E reading accuracy value ) Then you know tank and float etc are all perfect; any problems are elsewhere. Do not bend arm ,unless with full understanding. Be sure tank body is grounded well. Later Dodge trucks have ground wire on lock tab area , so problems happened ..add brass screw and bolt,. Wire to frame? Some repro senders do not work right, ohms are off. Bad ground = gauge stays on E. Or drops to E . To test wiring short wire at tank from the gauge on dash to frame at back for 5 seconds or so , gauge should go up; if not, problem is at dash gauge, regulator, or wire or bulkhead plug ; if it does go up, but was stuck at E before, problem is in tank or ground of tank no good. Actually , J-Y, I had forgotten what we did---on opening all this, dropping tank again, to see why the 40 ohms max at E ,(we thought float was hung up) instead of 70, we see we had reworked that Matador sender long ago to get the 3/8 pickup ; it had a new sender box MIG welded (!) to a new 3/8 pickup pipe, and a homemade filter screen of metal mesh on pipe end . That sender box, on the one on there, (box with fine wire winding) came from some other vintage or make car; it is, from its factory equipped with only 40 ohms of winding, total--which is wrong . Arm was moving correct amount etc but wrong resistor winding ; we had 4 NOS F senders , checked them all 10-15 to 65 70 ohms (correct numbers) ; one NOS MOPAR of unknown application, with cork float went like 20 to 200? Early car? 40's-50's? We used one of the NOS F to replace it, although now back to 5/16 tank pickup, which is probably OK. Based on my own experience and Jamie's we left plastic basket filter off of pickup pipe, added a plastic in line clear one at tank outlet. I do not like this, probably paper filter more restrictive than tank mesh, not good to restrict pump suction side , but we know that mesh falls apart or swells in alcohol, closing up the holes, clogging inside the tank--a worse problem. This way you can see and fix in a few minutes. I did this on many Packards, rust particles from tank on those make fuel pump valves stick open. Discussion with Ed, all his lawnmowers and garden tractor etc had failed, swelled fuel lines this year..this stuff is BAD; I think it gets the earlier gaskets at fuel gauge port , too, causing leaks with full tank . Last 6 gallons are above sender port (ask me how I know that) . NAPA ones junk, they swell, as is kit they sell for tank, lock ring is thin, low quality, easily bent metal and too small diameter. So save and fix old MOPAR one. I have a Moroso race filter , about 4" long aluminum filter with stainless mesh in it. 3/8 too, female pipe thread ends. You can open and clean, that is the right thing for at tank , but 80$ or so, (auugh) and ordered for hemi project, not this. (Summit). May get another one for this. Correct way to deal with eliminating nylon mesh and alcohol fuel. All tank gaskets now seem suspect ... I have found opening that sender resistance unit..which I will do later on this one ,(to see about the 40 ohms)... almost always bends the little slider which is quite critical in pressure on windings..if too much, it can hook on one wire of winding, hanging up or breaking, or wear out very fast..often worn to nothing ; although I have done so in past, trying to repair it, I do not think I will ever open one again( three little tabs..leave alone) ..too easy to break or bend it while opening it, a critical thing . If intermittent in car or hanging up, you have to write it off..or you spend a day messing with it , another half day exchanging tank, only to have it screw up a week later. Sometimes little box is full of rust .... On calibrating gauge, if tank is 70, empty, it should read E; if gauge regulator is pulsing, probably ok, but that impacts temp and oil gauges too, so all will be high or low if that is defective. If it sticks it can burn out all the gauges , by putting 12 volts on what is supposed to be about 5 v average (averaged by the pulsing 12V on and off), usually gauges are OK, unless someone messed with them, in my experience. But many ARE messed with. The little brass tanks are available from Ford parts, a pack of two. The plastic liner someone put in this tank looks good; I have had bad luck with that, it falls off in sheets, despite doing exactly what it says. Do not trust it. John Grady -----Original Message----- From: Jean-Yves [mailto:jymopar@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2014 7:26 PM To: 'John Grady'; ncrdawgn@xxxxxxxxxxx Cc: 'Jamie Hyde' Subject: RE: Sender I think we used the original sender or a used one I had here? 5 years ago no repro tanks and senders? So I must have used an original sender since we used an original tank...Float may work perfectly, but sender is made of all very thin wire , brass thin plate that rubs against that may not touch perfectly all the way?... Why ohm does not go above 40? *** J-Y, if it does not touch, it goes to thousands, infinity , jg---or if far end grounded (some are) to max of 75 or so J.Y. -----Original Message----- From: John Grady [mailto:jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] Sent: June-18-14 4:08 PM To: ncrdawgn@xxxxxxxxxxx Cc: 'Jean-Yves'; Jamie Hyde Subject: RE: Sender Ed, That is wrong ohm value sender..is it a repro sender? Maybe J-Y remembers; this means we have to measure any repro senders, As installed. ..same one must be in red 2wd dodge truck tank, does inverted version of same thing . only takes 8 gallons when on 1/8 . But pipe is at right depth. Any one of those old F ones would work, 15-70 closest to spec , be sure float is OK ,and that suction pipe ends up where the one you are taking out is , in depth in tank . ~15 ohms F ; 70 E ; spec is 10.3 and 73 ohms I think..used for many many years by MOPAR -----Original Message----- From: ncrdawgn@xxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:ncrdawgn@xxxxxxxxxxx] Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2014 2:07 PM To: jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: RE: Sender It looks like the sender/ meter was reading correct. ( but wrong value!) After taking it out it is reading 2.5-40 ohms. We have three more senders of that type. They range from; 1) 15-65 ohms 2) 15-70 ohms 3) 22-80 ohms Which sender should I put in? Ed ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "John Grady" <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> To: <ncrdawgn@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: RE: Sender Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2014 12:40:37 -0400 Float must not be dropping to bottom of tank , bringing ohms to 70 or so? If it worked outside the tank, arm travel is screwed up, not the sender resistor; (***this is wrong, meter was misadjusted first time, outside tank) this is why it never goes below 1/8, ohms never go over 40, float does not drop enough ? Or is hitting pipe ? Yes we have to open and look at why it does not go to far end of resistor . I do not know what you mean .2? you mean zeroing it, right? .2 ohms on X1 is Ok, close enough to zero (it is .2 compared to 10 or 70, not an issue; BUT--not really linear like that, but you get it; accurate zero setting impacts low readings more , like the 10 ohms or less on X1, but critical to zero the ohmmeter by shorting leads on scale you are using each time . At least not a damn digital meter which will jump all around due to (normal) intermittent contact of swing arm with housing (the ground of swinging arm is not good..way it is made--but works) -----Original Message----- From: ncrdawgn@xxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:ncrdawgn@xxxxxxxxxxx] Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2014 12:26 PM To: jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: Sender Hi John, No leaks from tank. I checked the sender in the tank the ohms are between 6-40. The ohms are still 40 with the tank in place. I haven't added gas yet. I checked the meter when I got back. It was at .2 on the X1 scale when I took the reading outside the tank (3-50 ohms). Do you want to change the sender? Ed ------------------------------------ Posted by: "John Grady" <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> ------------------------------------ To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or go to http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join and select the "Leave Group" button For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang ------------------------------------ Yahoo Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join (Yahoo! 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