RE: [Chrysler300] temperature gauge actual temperatures

["John Grady" <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

You are dead wrong on that; what happens on a cold day ,then?  Maybe you have not noticed but here in Boston we get 15 degrees and 100 degrees, temp gauge  runs exactly the same—not 85 degrees different  . Look at gauge as it warms up—you can see this action. . Thermostat opens and close as in any servo system to hold a constant temp. Why 160, 180,  190 thermostats?

 

It does what you say, first time--- but then temp would drop immediately to low temp,  so it closes again, opening and closing at rated temp. No sub freezing temps required..just a 60 mph breeze on radiator –compared to sitting still. Think cooling ability of radiator changes, idling in traffic or going fast? ? But engine temp does not , if stuff is right.  . If yours opens and stays open, on a regular day and no stress, you need a new radiator. It is open at hot  idling, as low air flow.

 

Lots of misinformation circulating on how these work. ; maybe you believe putting washers into cooling system at thermostat holder improves cooling because water slows down and “has time to pick up heat” ..you can tell it works because water comes out hotter…right?  

 

Smile .

 

 

 

From: retromobilia [mailto:retromobilia@xxxxxxxxxxx] 
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2014 12:07 PM
To: John Grady
Cc: Tony Bevacqua", "Charlie V" <cv300g@xxxxxxxxx>, "rinandal; chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] temperature gauge actual temperatures

 

'Cooling System 101'

 

John, You are mistaken about the thermostat. It is made to get the temperature above 180 degrees or whatever it's rating is (190 or 180) only (it does not perform any cooling function) [In fact if one were to remove the thermostat, the engine could run a very low temperature and harm the engine components.) 

 

Once the thermostat opens (when the water in the block reaches 180) it stays open, (unless the temperature dropped lower than 180 (like in sub freezing areas) and it will close to get it back up.) The purpose of the thermostat is to heat up the engine so that you do no damage stressing the cold components on initial driving. 

 

The system (cooling system complete with radiator) is designed to keep the engine at close to operating temperature of between 200 and 220 degrees (where the oil can perform its purpose lubricating and boiling off contaminants [venting them out or ingesting with pcv valve].) Oil can do its job up to about 250 degrees. The car with 200 degrees, which the requester asked about, is on the low side of operating temperature.

 

Please be careful giving information which may cause a novice more problems in the long run>

Sincerely,

John

 

PS: there are three major things which can cause a car radiator to 'boil over' in increasing order: Clogged radiator and/or sludge in the cooling system; faulty water pump; Incorrect timing. And then of course, a broken, stuck closed thermostat! 

PPS: Forgot the radiator cap; it is sealed to hold a specific pressure in the system which is calibrated to keep pressure at the engineering design level to avoid letting the water reaching a boil.

 

 

  _____  

From: "John Grady" <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Tony Bevacqua" <tonysru2@xxxxxxxxxxx>, "Charlie V" <cv300g@xxxxxxxxx>, "rinandal" <rinandvan@xxxxxxx>, chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Monday, May 5, 2014 7:39:27 AM
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] temperature gauge actual temperatures

  

These are like gas gauges, very inaccurate and even if gauge is attempted to be calibrated ,unlike computer equipped cars, the analog sender end is not ; That said, these are often messed with, and may be way out , why JC can correct outliers ( any adjustment will be turned (John’s law, aka “golden screwdriver” ) and the gauges have two..do not touch them ,unless you know for sure what you are doing, and have correct test signal) ---only a real reading with infra red remote(probably best) or thermometer will tell you numerically about what the gauge is really telling you, no matter where on dial that is ; getting a conceptual data point just over 200 is good, as water thermostat will open and close to keep engine at its setting, 180 or 190; once it cannot do that (it is open all the time, cannot keep up with heat ) temp will go over 200-205, ---or more, on hot day, A/C on; that is what you need to know . Also a low pressure relief cap and overflow bottle (latter, if added) will become active , in the 220’s, telling you it is stressed ; with 180 or 190 (or 160!) thermostats, and all working, on a cool day , the pointer inside will point to that “in regulation” desired temp, once warmed up all the way.,.. a good quick way to tell when things are about right; a more upscale reading indicates it is over thermostat setting, which is somewhat normal when stressed, but if that happens on a cool day, or unexplained, problems coming .

I had some problems with correctly fitting relief caps on these cars, as a true relief cap needs to seal to outer/upper radiator lip as well as to inner radiator neck where spring pushes it down. Some of the originals have a sort of springy brass plate for upper /outer seal, as it is only to keep water from getting out at cap edge faster than drain tube open to ground can get rid of it ; with no or poor seal there , overflow bottle water will not get sucked back in by vacuum when cool. New caps with upper seal seem not to fit upper ring of OEM radiators quite right---doubt it was designed for those. Although they clip on OK. 

You can also see the following action on some cars; as it warms up it usually overshoots the stable point by 5% or so, and then comes back as thermostat opens and slug of cool water goes around ,the first time, then it goes back to stable point . A lot of info for you, in that action…..Or when climbing long hills. 

You can sort of get used to where it sits, that is your normal, why normal bar is long. If it starts going more, something is behind that, unless very hot day and/or A/C on. 

My .03…………..

john

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Tony Bevacqua
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2014 10:05 AM
To: 'Charlie V'; 'rinandal'; chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [Chrysler300] temperature gauge actual temperatures

FYI, I found my G having a VERY high read with no boiling nor overflow, etc., so Jeff Carter suggested that he send me a recently calibrated one to put in, which I did. I sent him mine and kept his because it brought the temps down to normal readings. You might consider this way, especially if you want the correct gauge for your year.

Tony

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Charlie V
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2014 2:53 AM
To: rinandal; chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] temperature gauge actual temperatures

Hi Van,

I would say that in the middle is just right and over there on the side of " H " is too HOT.

But not necessarily so. On my 62 300 Sport Convertible the gauge is always on the " H " side. I installed another temp gauge and that show the engine running around 185 degrees.

Charlie Valentine

From: rinandal <rinandvan@xxxxxxx>
To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
Sent: Friday, May 2, 2014 6:03 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] temperature gauge actual temperatures

Hi all,
Heat just came on in southern CA. Which brings me to my question . On my 1964 K there are no numbers on the temperature gauge. So if all is stock and in good working order for the sake of this question: What temperature does the little "overheat" section on the right hand(hot) side of the gauge represent? 

Thanks,
Van

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