The simple way to restrict
or block the cross over gases is to use a thin piece of SS, like .010 to .020".
Just position it over the gasket and install manifold. As far as a hole in it,
that would be a matter of choice. The colder the climate the larger the hole. I
would guess 1/2" at best. In So Cal where I live I would block completely. My
only experience is my 392 powered Roadster. It has a Wiend manifold with no
cross over. I can warm it up in a few minutes at high idle.
Side note: I am discounting
my parts list to liquidate. I don't have enough time for my cars. Let me
know if you want me to e-mail my list. I will be going back to my
shop in Carson City, NV soon. For those that have order in, I will
take care when I am there.
Thank you, Gary, the parts doc Escondido,
CA USA Land of the Avocado Mail:
garythepartsdoc@xxxxxxxxxxxx 760.751.1958
From: Rich Barber [mailto:c300@xxxxxxx] Sent:
Friday, January 31, 2014 12:28 PM To: 'news4ge@xxxxxxx';
'd.verity@xxxxxxx'; 'mmoore8425@xxxxxxx'; 'kmaniak@xxxxxxx';
'jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx' Cc:
'Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx' Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Manifolds
and carbs
I hadn’t
thought much about blocking off the heat tubes and purchased a new set of
same. Now, I’m thinking of just blinding off one of the two tubes on
each side. That would allow some hot exhaust to rise from the exhaust
header into the heat chamber. Natural cooling and convection. I
think I also saw a note about putting in a restrictor. Is there any
detail or opinion on that? Perhaps a little steel plate with a ¼” hole
in it?
Operation in
bitter cold is not an issue. Creeping along in stalled freeway traffic
is more likely.
C300K’ly,
Rich
Barber
One more
comment on J/K rams: When I was putting mine back together there was some
discussion about whether or not to block off the heat tubes. Some of the
club members had done that. I asked George Riehl about it and he said
they absolutely should be blocked off. He said to block them off where
they meet the intake. That's what I did, altho I wonder if it might have
been better to block them at the header, to avoid eventually blowing out the
tubes (and reducing back pressure). Maybe there's some value in having
at least some exhaust heat reaching the intake. I reasoned that if
George could run his J in Michigan, I could run my K in
Florida.
-----Original
Message----- From: Rich Barber <c300@xxxxxxx> To: 'Don Verity' <d.verity@xxxxxxx>; mmoore8425 <mmoore8425@xxxxxxx>; kmaniak <kmaniak@xxxxxxx>; 'John Grady' <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Cc:
Chrysler300 <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent:
Fri, Jan 31, 2014 10:54 am Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Manifolds and
carbs
In a final
effort to disseminate information today, I’d add these notes on the ram J-K
intake manifold heat issue. Just to describe the flow pattern of the hot
exhaust gas used to heat the manifolds under the carbs. There is, of
course, a baffle plate under the four holes that admit the fuel-air charge
from the carburetors into the two single cross section passages of each intake
manifold (and, the smaller equalizer tube connecting these chambers on each
side). The lower section of each chamber has two down-facing flange-like
surfaces, drilled and tapped for two bolts each. In order to achieve
flow of hot exhaust gas into one of these ports and out the other, connections
are made with flanged-end steel tubes to similarly-flanged ports at,
apparently, high-pressure and low pressure areas of the huge cast iron exhaust
manifolds. I’d expect that side flow to vary somewhat with volumetric
flow of exhaust gas in the manifold, but the system seems to provide plenty of
heat—uncontrollable and maybe sometimes just right or too much. Some of the
heat would be expected to flow upward through the chamber tops and into the
carbs. The whole idea is to vaporize the liquid fuel coming in through
the carb jets before it hits the combustion chamber and before the plug
fires. Although rather simple, the concept is brilliant and seems to
work—probably quicker and hotter than heating the manifold with engine
coolant.
My first car, a
’40 Ford, had a similar system for heating the passenger compartment. A
fan blew cold air across a finned section of the exhaust pipe and the heated
air was then re-introduced into the passenger compartment and to the
windshield defroster system. It seemed to work well, but any exhaust
leak in the system would introduce CO into the passenger compartment.
And, there was no temperature control. In 1938-39, Nash invented and
patented certain features of their Weather–Eye heater system that used hot
coolant to heat outside air for the heater & defroster. I always
heard that Nash then licensed their heaters to the Big Three or traded the
rights for something they needed that was patented by the Big Three..
See: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Weather_Eye
The “Other”
Brentwood, CA (OJ and the Governator never even visited here—ornamental trees
in full bloom)
Agree
totally, Don,--- and was starting to doubt my sanity as I remember the F heat
risers rattling or sure thought I did , distinctive noise of 60-61
idling. ...and getting them equal.
Re the
pad, Heat flows upward in gas except radiant heat, which is surface area
related and pan top IS hot ; exhaust passage is small part of manifold
underside compared to pan, (as you note about A block baffling ) and a pad
might reasonably be acting as a thermal insulator and a silencer too ;
whether air blowing through is better is up for grabs, but drag guys wrap
manifold in wet rags etc .
Yes,
the valley pan will be hot, but not as hot as the exhaust passage. Just look
at any V-8 Mopar with the passage open and you will see burned paint where the
passage goes through. Drag guys have the heat blocked off, don’t run on the
street, and only run 1/4 mile at a time. The wet rags, cool cans, etc. are to
keep the fuel air charge as cool as possible.
The pad would
help hot soak, no question. but I never had use for one. Pick your poison on
that. It is wrapped in aluminum , like present thermal/acoustic products for
sound insulation..which also do both.
Re Fact 2,all
we need is Don to set them up; That F in Maine was the real
deal...reality...surrounded by smart ram experienced club guys.
And Don knows not to flood it in the first place .
But a soccer
mom may not.... fact remains the Plymouth wagon lost its rams when new,
probably due to bumbling at dealer, but also due to having to know how to
drive/start these cars. And it was brand new.
Soccer moms were not invented when the
letter cars were new. They would not be driving such an impractical car even
if they were. I remember the car in Maine. It was a pure show car if I
remember right. The plugs were probably partially fouled.
I flooded
mine, not often, but I did. It is easy to do, and frustrating . And when
I did I had to remove air cleaners, open choke to get air into it ...vs
kill battery trying to make a point (in the short term ) to start it. If
not flooded no problem; I bought a G one time in 70’s off a used car lot in
Reno and drove it back to Boston , some snow in Utah, (old Route 50!) with a
small tool box, and it never gave me any start problems , but it was in Spring
,sort of ,--- but I hear you. It is not guys in 300 club who have problems
----but even they do sometimes.
Remember that the flooding was
probably from a no-start condition in the first place. Or it was real cold
out. I’m sure a lot of no-start, or slow start episodes can be traced to an
ignition system problem. Those ram carbs never really warm up in cold weather.
I drove my G up to northern Vermont once to look at a D. It was in the single
digits up there, and it snowed some on the way home. When I got home and
popped the hood, the carbs were ice cold.
Setup for
start involves choke setup, mainly ....one assumes mixture idle etc has all
been well set. All auto chokes a little dicey, depending on skill of mechanic
, or they would not need WOT unloaders, at all, right?
Right. Flooding does occur. You can
read about it in the owners manuals.
Are 300E
carbs AFB? Most dual quads work just as you say. . Aftermarket progressive
linkage same thing.
The
does have AFB’s. I noticed when I was looking at mine that the connector link
was in the upper hole on the front carb when it should be on the bottom. The
linkage would jam near wide open throttle, and the front carb would never open
all the way. Could be one reason why it blew up in the 60’s. To
lean.
Interesting
exchange....really.
I guess I
have to clear up a few facts about these cars.
Fact
1. The foil
wrapped pad under the intake is not there to insulate anything. It’s a
silencer pad to mask some valve train noise. The valley pan certainly does not
need to be insulated from cross-over heat. It would be cooler without the pad
and air flow going through it. Small block Mopars have oil from the lifter
valley splashing directly on the bottom of the intake, except for one piece of
tin directly under the crossover passage. Check the parts book and it calls
the pad a silencer.
Fact
2. 60-61 Ram
cars have a heat riser valve in both manifolds. 62-64 short ram cars with
headers just have tubes with a restrictor on one of them. I drove a G for over
20 years and thousands of miles, and never flooded it. When set up
properly, the ram system is quite reliable. They were no more
troublesome than any other brand with multiple carbs, probably less in some
cases. They were also never sold in anything coming close to large quantities,
and the original owners likely knew what they were getting into. The big
problem is lack of mechanics qualified to work on them, back then and now.
Fact 3. I don’t have an H so I can’t vouch
for how those carbs are set up, but I do have an E (the intake and carbs are
on my kitchen table), and both carbs have an idle circuit, and idle air screw.
Only one has a choke though. The linkage opens in stages with the front
barrels of the rear carb working first, then the front barrels of the front
carb, then at wide open all eight. They do not go from 2 to 8. Ram cars are 4
all the time and 8 at full throttle. My C also has idle circuits on both carbs
and won’t run right on only the rear carb. I found that out when the
connecting fuel line went and I tried to run it on the rear carb only. It ran
but idled rough.
That’s my
rant for now. Did I miss anything?
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