This website has some highly relevant paragraphs on the electrical systems of our vintage MoPars-especially the section on corrosion problems at the bulkhead connector: http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical.html Personal observations: . Sloppily greased electrical connections can get runny and messy from the heat under the hood. . Grease actually excludes moisture, rather than oxygen. First rule of corrosion: No electrolyte, no corrosion. . I'd kind of miss the old ammeter, so in the '64 model, I would recommend the first solution connecting the heavy 12 gauge black wire (from the BAT connection on the alternator) and the heavy 12 gauge red wire (from the "B" terminal on the starter relay) directly to their respective connections inside the passenger compartment. I would suggest installing all new wire to eliminate troublesome splices. While you're at it, inspect and clean all the connections at the bulkhead connector and grease them up with conductive grease. Side issue: The article and the '64 Parts Catalog reference a "fatter" alternator named in the Catalog as a "Leece Nevelle" on police and other HD applications. My 300K parts car coupe came to me with a big HD-looking alternator (that did not work) with a flat flange with cooling vanes behind the pulley. It is possible this was a "Leece Nevelle" unit as it looks like their "current" products. Is it possible these HD alternators might have been installed on some 300K's (the Koupe has most available electrical accessories and A/C)? At 2 to 3 times the current capacity of the stock alternators, they might truly smoke the loom. The alternator that came on our 300K convertible was perhaps an original unit date stamped 25 63 (June '63) and part number 2098840 (non-existent in '63 or '64 Parts catalogs-but close-the "40" almost looked over-stamped and the Parts Catalogs show the same part numbers ending in "30" and "50"). I had to buy a new/rebuilt alternator, but kept the old one as it has the Forward Look and CPDD logos on it and can probably be rebuilt. Speaking of Forward Look, you might enjoy viewing this 1955 MoPar commercial: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j6Hb7jN9h0o Excerpt: The 60s - early 70s ammeters themselves were reliable pieces, it was the wiring that was usually to blame. If you look any service manual of the era, you'll see that Chrysler was well aware of the problem - in fact, police, taxi, and fleet vehicles, whose electrical loads were typically quite high (and which vehicles typically had a "fatter" alternator) had the two charging-circuit conductors removed from the bulkhead connector, and its woefully-inadequate 1/4-inch Sta-Kon connectors, and run directly through the firewall (with a simple rubber grommet). If you've experienced firewall connector problems, you should consider this mod as an option. The second plan is to convert to the '80s-'90s style wiring. Simply connect the alternator output stud, via some serious gauge wire (matched to your alternator's output specs) to the battery stud on the starter relay. But be absolutely sure you splice in an appropriate length of fusible-link wire into this new conductor! Here's what gauges to shoot for: Alternator output rating Under 50 Ampere Wire gauge 12 Fusible Link 16 50-65 A. Wire gauge 10 Fusible Link 14 85 A. Wire gauge 8 Fusible Link 12 100 - 120 A. Wire gauge 6 Fusible Link 10 With this done, the bulk of the charging system current will no longer flow through the firewall connector - or the ammeter. Obviously, the ammeter will no longer be accurate. The plan here is a simple accessory voltmeter, which should have its positive (+) side wired (with practically any gauge wire) to any ignition-switched 12-volt point, and the negative (-) side to ground. Rich Barber Brentwood, CA [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or go to http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join and select the "Leave Group" button For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylangYahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: Chrysler300-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Chrysler300-fullfeatured@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/