Re: [Chrysler300] Damper report
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Re: [Chrysler300] Damper report



Steering wheel puller works just fine, there isn't much resistance. All you're doing is providing even outward force to drag the balancer away off the taper and key. I've had steering wheels put up a harder fight than any balancer I've ever removed. (Many)

Sent from my iPhone

On 2013-06-20, at 7:51 PM, "Ron Waters" <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> All -
> 
> I just had to perform the procedure on a 1970 Oldsmobile 455. I imagine that 
> similar would work on a Chrysler BB.
> 
> Clamp the ring gear with a pair of 10WR Vice Grip pliers. Be careful not to 
> grab one of the teeth.
> 
> I used a 3/4" breaker bar with the correct socket (1 1/8", in this case). 
> Attached the extension from my floor jack onto the end of the breaker bar. 
> Bolt was loose within a few seconds. BTW, radiator, etc. were removed 
> beforehand.
> 
> I borrowed a harmonic balancer remover/installer from Advance Auto. They 
> loan out tools for free and you can hold onto them for several weeks. 
> Steering wheel puller is light duty. Will never work.
> 
> Reinstall:
> 
> Use the tools that come with the harmonic balancer remover/installer.
> 
> To torque the bolt, again attach the Vice Grips to the ring gear.
> 
> Ron
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Bob Jasinski" <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: "'Chrysler 300 List'" <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2013 2:06 PM
> Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Damper report
> 
> > Larry,
> >
> > Just following your emails on damper removal, and am curious as to the
> > feedback on a couple of questions you posed, since the answers were not
> > (evidently) posted on the server.
> >
> > 1. How did you end up removing the crankshaft nut without the crank
> > turning? I read that a small pneumatic air wrench would work, but 
> > question
> > just how small. 3/8" drive? 1/2 drive? I would think a 3/8" air wrench
> > would not have adequate torque to do the job, and a 1/2" might not fit
> > without removing the radiator.
> >
> > 2. What type of puller did you use to get the damper off? I've heard you
> > can use a steering wheel puller but never tried it.
> >
> > 2. According to the service manual, you need to re-torque the crankshaft
> > bolt to 135 ft/lbs. How do you plan on holding the crank from moving when
> > you re-torque the nut? Any clever suggestions come forward on that?
> >
> > Enquiring minds want to know, I may need to do the same thing.
> >
> > Bob J
> >
> > From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
> > Behalf Of Larry Jett
> > Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2013 10:32 AM
> > To: Chrysler 300 List
> > Subject: [Chrysler300] Damper report
> >
> >
> > The oem damper has a 3/16 inch gap from factory assembly which allowed it 
> > to
> > rub the motor and make the racket that announced its eminent death and the
> > timing mark has rotated almost 180 degrees from factory. Sending it off to
> > Damper Dudes in Anderson CA. Will report the outcome.
> > Larry Jett
> > LarryWJett@xxxxxxxxx <mailto:LarryWJett%40gmail.com>
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
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> >
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> >
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> > Links
> >
> >
> >
> 
> 


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