RE: [Chrysler300] Damper report

[Ryan Hill <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Seems like you guys are over-thinking a simple procedure. I've removed and replaced many dampers over the years on B/RB mopars and have never found the bolt to be a challenge at all. I usually loosen it before removing any of the drive belts, just for some added resistance but even that isn't always necessary. An air impact will certainly give you the best result as the trick is to 'snap' it versus slowly applying force. That said, most of the time I just use a breaker bar with a socket and give it a good quick snap to break it loose by hand. Once it's loose I remove the belt drive and use a harmonic balancer puller, available for a few bucks just about anywhere, to easily slide the balancer off the crank. Steering wheel pullers and crank pullers are virtually interchangeable.

 

The install is easy, you'll find you can get the bolt really tight before actually beginning to turn the rotating mass. If you feel the need to torque it to exact specs, you can limit the crank rotation by either buying a tool or simply bolting a scrap piece of steel to the balancer (use a couple of the belt drive holes) that extends out far enough to catch something firmly mounted and stops the rotation.

If you happen to have a manual trans, just put it in gear.

 

Any time you remove the balancer you should at least check the seal before reinstalling it. It's also often easier to do this work with the rad out. On a non A/C car it's a no brainer to remove the rad just to gain better access, it only takes a few minutes.

Ryan Hill 
 



To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 11:06:35 -0700
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Damper report

  



Larry,

Just following your emails on damper removal, and am curious as to the
feedback on a couple of questions you posed, since the answers were not
(evidently) posted on the server.

1. How did you end up removing the crankshaft nut without the crank
turning? I read that a small pneumatic air wrench would work, but question
just how small. 3/8" drive? 1/2 drive? I would think a 3/8" air wrench
would not have adequate torque to do the job, and a 1/2" might not fit
without removing the radiator.

2. What type of puller did you use to get the damper off? I've heard you
can use a steering wheel puller but never tried it.

2. According to the service manual, you need to re-torque the crankshaft
bolt to 135 ft/lbs. How do you plan on holding the crank from moving when
you re-torque the nut? Any clever suggestions come forward on that? 

Enquiring minds want to know, I may need to do the same thing.

Bob J

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of Larry Jett
Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2013 10:32 AM
To: Chrysler 300 List
Subject: [Chrysler300] Damper report


The oem damper has a 3/16 inch gap from factory assembly which allowed it to
rub the motor and make the racket that announced its eminent death and the
timing mark has rotated almost 180 degrees from factory. Sending it off to
Damper Dudes in Anderson CA. Will report the outcome.
Larry Jett
LarryWJett@xxxxxxxxx <mailto:LarryWJett%40gmail.com> 

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