Re: [Chrysler300] 1970 Hurst Haj

[Bill Huff <czbill@xxxxxxxxxx>]

Sounds like the distributor rotor might be 180 degrees out of phase 
or a lack of good fuel.  I would verify top dead center mechanically, 
such as with a spark plug stop or a cord threaded into the spark plug 
hole.  Roll the engine by hand, not with the starter.  You can google 
the procedure.

After making sure the engine is on TDC, check the damper against the 
timing mark to make sure the damper rubber hasn't slipped.  Then 
install the distributor and rotor according to the FSM.  You can also 
google this info if needed.  Don't forget BB and RB engines rotate 
the rotor CCW.

Make sure the engine has fresh gasoline, old gas will give similar 
problems.  Possibly run the a hose for the intake to the fuel pump 
from a gas can with known good fuel.  Or, empty the tank and refill 
with new gas.  Modern gasoline can go "bad" from phase separation in 
a matter of a few months.

Bill Huff




At 5/9/201212:37 AM, DeBusk Thomas L. wrote:
>Isn't a tune-up supposed to make a car run better? I changed points, 
>condenser, distributor cap & rotor, spark plugs & wires, and the 
>result is that my 300 Hurst, which ran poorly before, now won't 
>start at all. Actually, it's trying very hard to backfire through 
>the carburetor.
>
>I was extremely careful to gap the plugs at exactly .035". The 
>points were at .019" right on the high spot of the lobe. I checked 
>and re-checked the firing order several times.
>
>It did occur to me that the timing might need to be re-set. The 
>plugs I pulled out were all gapped at about .025" (what the ?!!), 
>and I'm not sure the points had any gap at all. At least they didn't 
>appear to. So I suppose that might've affected the dwell/timing. But 
>I couldn't get it running long enough to get a timing light on it.
>
>I did discover that the distributor hold-down was just snug, not 
>tight. So I could move it by hand with very firm pressure. Picture 
>this: me, trying to start the car, to the sound of backfires & 
>misfires, then leaping out of the car, trekking around that huuuge 
>door to the other side of the car to move the distributor a couple 
>of degrees, in the vain hope that it would fire long enough for me 
>to spin the distributor into a happier position. I made that journey 
>50+ times. Finally decided to stop punishing the battery. It ran a 
>couple of times, but I never could find a spot with the distributor 
>that made the engine happy, and I worked it through about 20-30 
>degrees a few degrees at a time. Didn't have my timing light with 
>me, but I would've had a hard time keeping it running long enough 
>for that to be useful if I had had it with me.
>
>So, besides commiserating with me online, I'm open to helpful 
>suggestions. I've been in this sort of wacky-timing time warp 
>situation with other engines and I've never extricated myself 
>without other onsite adult supervision before. Obviously I have to 
>get it close enough to run so I can get my timing light on it. But 
>what's a methodical way of doing that, besides the trial-and-error 
>approach I attempted tonight? If you weigh, please feel free to talk 
>down to me and use small words. I'm pretty sure I'm missing 
>something fairly obvious & easy.
>
>Another question I have is: is it possible to get too much 
>dielectric grease on the spark plug boots? When I put it on the 
>boots I was operating under the assumption that any excess that made 
>its way down to the metal contacts would get squeezed out from 
>between them. Is that faulty thinking? Do you really have to be 
>careful to get it just on the boot itself without allowing excess to 
>get to the metal? Or can too much dielectric grease interfere with 
>spark transmission and cause the sort of stubborn-mule act I'm getting?
>
>Thomas DeBusk
>
>
>
>On May 6, 2012, at 6:58 PM, Thomas DeBusk wrote:
>
> > Where is the flasher relay on my 1970 Hurst?
> >
> > [I'm stomping out niggling "little" problems (like a frozen front 
> brake caliper) so I can get to Chattanooga. The distributor cap has 
> one wire "welded" into it by corrosion. Others just fall out. 
> Points had a hole in the stationary side. You know: little stuff.]
> >
> > Thomas DeBusk
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> >
>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
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