RE: [Chrysler300] 300D Starting Problem

[christopher beilby <thelastbestgenius@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

If it is the starter relay, that is easier to remove and refit than the trans neutral switch, which is not only under the car, but it near the pushbutton cable etc where they go into trans, as well as exhaust pipe snakes thru that area.
 ( I bought new starter relays thinking that the problem, but 3 times out of 3 it was the trans switch, BUT THEN I WAS DEALING WITH ORIGINAL UNRESTORED CARS - if the maybe now 50+ year old trans switch has been replaced before, it likely if a good brand will now last decades/forever?)
 
With the trans switch, I found with a socket on the end of a long extension, it not too bad to get out once you undo the little nut that holds the wire. And Gloria is likely right, re how tight it is torqued?! It has a semicrush type washer fixed to it as part of it, and how tight you screw it in, this crushes. But if the spring inside the switch is weakening, then as Gloria says, by maybe tightening it a bit more than it was, this buys more time until it fails completely.
 
However one thing other 300 members might know, and why I post this here, is IS THERE ANY SPECIFIED TORQUE/AMOUNT that one SHOULD TIGHTEN A NEW/ANY TRANS SWITCH TO? The crush washer seems like a soft alloy, flares out, and as you tighten it pulls inwards/flat, how tight is correct? I did all 3 of those I did reasonably tight, was maybe lucky I got it right, but is there a more correct torque/way?

Christopher Australia 



To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: terrymct999@xxxxxxxxx
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2011 11:50:20 -0700
Subject: [Chrysler300] 300D Starting Problem


  



I found that even a simple tap on the starter relay can make it start.  I did remove all the wires and cables from the relay, cleaned them thoroughly, and reinstalled them.  I does seem OK now, but the problem is sporatic, so we will see if it's really fixed.  Good news is that I do have a spare starter relay.  Terry McTaggart

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