This is a tough one from the information given, I have seen clutch fans spaced 2 to 2 1/2 inches out from the pump with no problems, so 3/16 is nothing! Are all the blades still on your fan and unbent? The only thing I can see could be happening is the clutch and fan unit are out of balance, causing undo stress on the pump bearing. Do you feel any unusual vibrations while running the engine especially coming and going with RPM changes? Higher RPMs will exacerbate the problem, but the bearing going out by just starting is very perplexing, it seem as if your leaving some critical information out in your explanation. Could you post a photo of the assembled unit? Herb 1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361 4-Sale 1959 Coronet 326 Poly 1961 Belvedere Custom Suburban 318 Poly 1962 Dodge Dart 225 Slant Six 4-Sale 1963 Fury 2D/HT 6.1L 1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361 1970 Chrysler 300 Hurst 440 1999 Durango SLT 5.9L 2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1L St. Louis, MO. http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo42009.html GOD Drives a Plymouth ".... GOD, in his FURY, drove them forth from Eden...." Genesis 3:23 -------Original Message------- From: Thomas Cox Date: 11/9/2010 12:51:18 PM To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: [Chrysler300] 300F Water Pump I traveled to the Chicago meet in my F convert, during which I threw at least two water pump belts. Upon arriving in Chicago, several guys that know a lot more than I do about the F engine noticed that the fan pulley was not lined up with the crank pulley. All suggested shimming out the fan pulley which we did by about 3/16”. I drove home and all seemed well; no belts thrown and car ran fine. After arriving home, the engine was properly broken in and I began to increase the speeds I drove. Shortly thereafter, the water pump failed as I slowed down from about 4,000 rpms. I did have another water pump in the trunk and I replaced it. Within 50 miles, that water pump failed while driving about 60 mph on the interstate, taking out the radiator. So, I bought a NAPA replacement water pump, replaced the water pump with failed bearings, had the radiator repaired and installed, cranked it up and it idled nicely for about 30 minutes, at which time I shut it down. Upon start-up, the new NAPA water pump failed. I am at a loss at what to do. The belts are not too tight. My only thought is that shimming out the water pump may have put too much stress on the water pump with a fairly heavy fan/clutch assembly. Any other suggestions?? I can’t afford another radiator rebuild and I am afraid to drive the car any distance. I can’t understand why I could drive the car nearly 1,000 miles with the shimmed out pulley, yet I can’t keep a water pump operating without the bearings failing Help!!! [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or go to http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join and select the "Leave Group" button For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylangYahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: Chrysler300-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Chrysler300-fullfeatured@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/