Re: [Chrysler300] 300F Water Pump
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Re: [Chrysler300] 300F Water Pump



This is a tough one from the information given, I have seen clutch fans
spaced 2 to 2 1/2 inches out from the pump with no problems, so 3/16 is
nothing!  Are all the blades still on your fan and unbent?  The only thing I
can see could be happening is the clutch and fan unit are out of balance,
causing undo stress on the pump bearing.  Do you feel any unusual vibrations
while running the engine especially coming and going with RPM changes? 
Higher RPMs will exacerbate the problem, but the bearing going out by just
starting is very perplexing, it seem as if your leaving some critical
information out in your explanation.  Could you post a photo of the
assembled unit?
 
               
 Herb 
 
1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361 4-Sale
1959 Coronet 326 Poly
1961 Belvedere Custom Suburban 318 Poly
1962 Dodge Dart 225 Slant Six  4-Sale
1963 Fury 2D/HT 6.1L
1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361
1970 Chrysler 300 Hurst 440
1999 Durango SLT 5.9L
2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1L
St. Louis, MO.
 
http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo42009.html
  
 
 
 
                            GOD Drives a Plymouth
 
".... GOD, in his FURY, drove them forth from Eden...."
 
Genesis 3:23
 
 
 
-------Original Message-------
 
From: Thomas Cox
Date: 11/9/2010 12:51:18 PM
To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [Chrysler300] 300F Water Pump
 
  
I traveled to the Chicago meet in my F convert, during which I threw at
least 
two water pump belts. Upon arriving in Chicago, several guys that know a lot

more than I do about the F engine noticed that the fan pulley was not lined
up 
with the crank pulley. All suggested shimming out the fan  pulley which we
did 
by about 3/16”. I drove home and all seemed well; no belts thrown and car
ran 
fine.
 
After arriving home, the engine was properly broken in and I began to
increase 
the speeds I drove. Shortly thereafter, the water pump failed as I slowed
down 
from about 4,000 rpms. I did have another water pump in the trunk and I
replaced 
it. 

 
Within 50 miles, that water pump failed while driving about 60 mph on the 
interstate, taking out the radiator. 

 
So, I bought a NAPA replacement water pump, replaced the water pump with
failed 
bearings, had the radiator repaired and installed, cranked it up and it
idled 
nicely for about 30 minutes, at which time I shut it down. Upon start-up,
the 
new NAPA water pump failed.
 
I am at a loss at what to do. The belts are not too tight. My only thought
is 
that shimming out the water pump may have put too much stress on the water
pump 
with a fairly heavy fan/clutch assembly. Any other suggestions?? I can’t
afford 
another radiator rebuild and I am afraid to drive the car any distance. I
can’t 
understand why I could drive the car nearly 1,000 miles with the shimmed out

pulley, yet I can’t keep a water pump operating without the bearings failing
 
Help!!!


 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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