After a 'hot soak' there could very well be a fuel supply problem. What happens is that fuel will boil; vaporize. The temperature at which this phase change occurs is a variable relative to the vapor pressure above the liquid. At atmospheric pressure and with your high underhood temperature the fuel did boil off in your carburetors. Given the poor performance of the accelerator pumps in your carburetors and no fuel in the float bowls and you get a no start. Gas we buy today is designed to stay liquid in a fuel injected car where the fuel in the fuel delivery system is at greater than atmospheric pressure. I would suggest your most urgent thing to get right is the coolant temperature. Based on what I have seen running similar things in the desert, your car should have with your new engine job, a radiator cleaned mechanically (rodded) inside with all fins straight and clean and no heavy coating on the fins and tubes and back to original 100% or a fresh and proper new core, a new 14 lbs cap, a (new) 180 degF thermostat (Robertshaw design), proper radiator fan and drive if the car came with a thermal clutch drive, proper coolant pump (and here the A/C application pump works well), a factory fan shroud and all tuning adjustments checked and set at factory spec. And, you need to know what the actual coolant temperature is and compare this to a dash gauge. About the radiator. We just had a collision damaged and repaired Nissan pickup in here with a severe overheat condition. Seems the body shop painted the radiator to make it pretty with something that killed the heat transfer characteristics drastically. New radiator fixed the thing. Radiator clean inside and out works well. A new engine will have more internal friction which is heat..So, if an engine is set up on the tight side, initially there will be more heat rejection. A pull can be tires but you rotated and didn't change anything so you have an alignment issue. A frame and front end shop (read not, repeat, not tire shop) can home in on the problem with the car on a four wheel alignment rack. And, you do not, in my opinion, want anyone doing alignment work on you car that is, right out of the box, looking for 'specs'. You need a shop that has four wheel equipment and understands what the car is telling them and then knows what to do to make it track right. This type of service is not rare but normally above the technical level found in 'tire shops'. A Google search and there seems to be a plethora of frame/alignment shops in Escondido, San Marcos and Vista. Warren Anderson Sedona,AZ [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: Chrysler300-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Chrysler300-fullfeatured@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/