This brings up an old caution, or else it's an old wive's tale. "Don't remove the thermostat, the coolant will pass through the radiator too fast to cool", says the old saw. Seems to me to be contra logical. I have run MANY cars without a thermostat and never found it made the car overheat. I stopped doing it when I pulled an engine and it was so sludged up the oil pan was a solid of grease with a tunnel for the crankshaft. I run thermostats to make sure the engine gets up to temp on short runs to burn off moisture and other contaminants. I can't see the reason for a larger opening thermostat unless the size of the engine (stroker) is greatly enlarged. Any thermodynamicists out there care to attack this problem? Bill Huff At 6/4/201010:49 AM, 2HsandaHeritage@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote: > > > > >Charlie, > >I forgot to tell you of one other thing that I did. > >Chrysler performance has (or had) thermostats with larger openings. > >I have one in the "problem" car, but can't say if it helped or not. > >Doug > >----- Original Message ----- >From: <mailto:charlies%40xplornet.com>charlies@xxxxxxxxxxxx >To: <mailto:chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com>chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx >Sent: Thursday, June 3, 2010 6:57:47 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific >Subject: [Chrysler300] Overheating Issues > >Â > >Hi All, >Since we all drive the same type of "large >autos", perhaps this group could come up with a >few answers / suggestions to my problem. Seems >that when I'm in heavy traffic with my 62 dual >quad sport, the temp guage wants to live at the >wrong side of the guage (hot). Then the car >wants to bog and stall. At highway speeds she drives and cools much better. >The radiadtor shop confirms that the rad is the >original one that was shipped with the car - >although only 29k on the drive train, they seem >to think that the core would be pluged up. I did >a cooling system flush with vinegar and water >and that helped somewhat but not enough. The rad >shop wants to re-core the rad with a 3 core low >flow core. Does anyone have thoughts on low flow >cores. The rad shop says this type of core is >more efficient than the old tech OEM core. The >clutch fan is good, the 160 degree thermostat is >new, the hoses are all good and I'm pretty sure >the head gasgets are good. Also would any of the >following items have an effect on engine >temperature under NORMAL driving conditions - >carb jetting, spark plug heat range, distributor >timing. Also would an aux trans cooler help this >situation. I suspect the rad is the major issue >here, but I'd like to cover all bases if I can. >Thanks, Charlie in Ottawa (62 Sport). > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: Chrysler300-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Chrysler300-fullfeatured@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/