Re: [Chrysler300] Overheating Issues

[Andy Mikonis <r41hp@xxxxxxxxx>]

I'll comment since my car became rather notorious in the club for its persistent overheating issues. What I've learned is you are going NOWHERE with this problem if that core isn't flowing. You can flush it all you want, or have a shop flush it, put on a "A/C water pump" whatever, nothing will help except:

1. New core

-or-

2. "Rodding out" old core. This involves the shop taking the top tank off and physically pushing rods through the tubes to clear the obstructions. Your core, if original, probably can't take this. Also, it can be difficult to get a shop to actually do this. A lot of shops will flush it, tell you it's fine and take your money.

The related problem, as it was in my case, is if your block has a lot built up junk in the cooling passages. This stuff will continue to flow in your coolant and eventually block up up your new or rodded core. The core is like a filter in this case. My car would run cool for a couple years after the radiator was rodded, then eventually get clogged back up.

I had the radiator recored four years ago when George Riehl rebuilt my engine. After hot tanking, George took the block to another outfit that shot-peened it inside and out. It came back looking like a fresh casting. After four years, the coolant still looks new. No more heating problems.

As far as the core type. I went with an extra row. I doubt you need some sort of new type of core. Like basically every original technology on these cars, (be it breaker points, drum brakes or what have you) millions of cars drove millions of miles on this old tech without any problems when they were somewhat properly maintained.


Andy (formerly-known-in-300-circles-as "Running Hot") Mikonis
staying cool in Chicago, USA



--- On Thu, 6/3/10, Michael Reed <mrreed@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

From: Michael Reed <mrreed@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Overheating Issues
To: charlies@xxxxxxxxxxxx, chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, jerrylindsay.300h@xxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Thursday, June 3, 2010, 9:59 AM







 



  


    
      
      
      My experience, for what it is worth. Chrysler 300F. Most "graphic" example -- the hottest the F has ever run (except when it has blown a core plug...).



Two or three years ago, afternoon, 90+°, on my way to a cruise-in. Ran into a highway repaving project that was underway. I sat on newly paved asphalt (still warm from paving) for over 15 minutes, A/C on, engine at idle. The temp gauge went up about a needle's width from normal.



The radiator is the original, as far as I can tell. If it was ever serviced, it was 1978 or before. 



Mike



Many years ago when I was single, I place an ad on Craig's List: "Wife Wanted." I received a hundred replies overnight. They all said the same thing: "You can have mine."



----- Original Message ----- 

  From: charlies@xxxxxxxxxxxx 

  To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 

  Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 9:57 AM

  Subject: [Chrysler300] Overheating Issues



Hi All,

  Since we all drive the same type of "large autos", perhaps this group could come up with a few answers / suggestions to my problem. Seems that when I'm in heavy traffic with my 62 dual quad sport, the temp guage wants to live at the wrong side of the guage (hot). Then the car wants to bog and stall. At highway speeds she drives and cools much better.

  The radiadtor shop confirms that the rad is the original one that was shipped with the car - although only 29k on the drive train, they seem to think that the core would be pluged up. I did a cooling system flush with vinegar and water and that helped somewhat but not enough. The rad shop wants to re-core the rad with a 3 core low flow core. Does anyone have thoughts on low flow cores. The rad shop says this type of core is more efficient than the old tech OEM core. The clutch fan is good, the 160 degree thermostat is new, the hoses are all good and I'm pretty sure the head gasgets are good. Also would any of the following items have an effect on engine temperature under NORMAL driving conditions - carb jetting, spark plug heat range, distributor timing. Also would an aux trans cooler help this situation. I suspect the rad is the major issue here, but I'd like to cover all bases if I can. 

  Thanks, Charlie in Ottawa (62 Sport).



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