Re: [Chrysler300] living with modern anti-freeze products

["Warren Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

  Guess I missed the Club memo where something with a soldered radiator and precious little aluminum needed something other than the coolant that always has worked just fine (ethylene glycol) in old Chrysler iron. Surge tanks can be a good idea. That technology allows smaller radiators as more radiator area is used but still does not require something other than ethylene glycol and a proper cap in my opinion if a surge tank is retrofitted.

  The purpose of some of the coolants specified for the later model cars is to extend service intervals. Some of the coolants are very sensitive to air leaks in the cooling system and react poorly as we have seen. So, I favor coolant changes more frequent than what will be found in current owners manuals. Extended plug change intervals, extended engine oil change intervals and way out there coolant change intervals can sound like a good plan but here where I live the high temperatures and mountains put enough strain on coolant and plugs to where I think the factory intervals are  way excessive.

  I have not seen the need to retrofit surge tanks to any of my old iron but that is not a bad idea at all. And, I ran long life Prestone in my 383 Dodge for a few years with no positive and no negative effects. There are bulletins suggesting that that coolant and soldered radiators do not work well together so I am back to ethylene glycol green stuff. 

  Does open a can of worms don't it.

  Warren Anderson
  Sedona,AZ 

  We do have one gas engine fleet on synthetic oil and 6,000 mile changes but I still do not like to see the coolant (one of the new technology Ford products specified for the vehicles) go beyond three years without a coolant change and flush and a new stat. And, so far, all this has worked well and for a lot of folks. . 

    Ok, after this subject has been beat to death several times, and after a lot of 
  reading, both reports, and manufacturing claims, and taking into account direct 
  experiences, I think I have figured out the main thing we need to so for our 
  vintage cars surviving this sort of modern automotive chemistry.

  OVERFLOW tanks, of any sort that allows an overflow radiator cap AND fluid 
  maintained in the tank. THE reason seems to be that NO air is to be in the 
  cooling system at all. I think all current formulations being sold today are of 
  this nature. The only way to do this is to purge as much air out of the cooling 
  system and to maintain the same mix in the overflow tank. As the final bit of 
  air gets purged by the normal operation of the system then the fluid that is 
  used will not break down as fast in the cooling system. The particulates that 
  settle out and develop the crud that blocks the heater core and other small 
  passages then does not happen (normally), sometimes as fast as 6 - 12 months. 
  This short time span breakdown I have personally seen and experienced in systems 
  comparable to the 55 - 65 cooling system designs.

  I think the first signs of the breakdown can be seen in the overflow tanks as a 
  film of buildup of the particulates as they settle out of the fluids exposed to 
  air in the overflow tank.

  All one should have to do for the 2 or so years between changes is to make sure 
  that the overflow container never runs dry during the periods that you operate 
  your car.

  I personally will still adhere to the 2 year change out cycle, regardless of the 
  vintage automobile. We have seen the desirability of doing this even with modern 
  cars.

  AND above all else, Do Not Mix Types of coolant in the same system.

  -- 
  Paul Holmgren
  Hers: http://in09.endcancer.org/goto/Cindy.Holmgren




  

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