Heat transfer is a complex technology and always highly dependent on velocity. Velocity and flow rate are not the same. Velocity varies within the engine for any given fixed flow rate due to the complex passages. The big headers on the radiator are designed to have nearly identical flow in each radiator tube for a given fixed flow rate. To make you more comfortable with the high velocity/low cooling concept, think of the hot water pipe from your home water heater to your shower head. If you can get the flow rate high enough, it won't cool much. If you just let a small volume flow (at lower velocity in the pipe) the water temperature at the faucet will be cooler. And, it takes longer to get hot water to the faucet if the pipe is going through a cool space (like the attic in winter) vs. the time to get hot water in the summer. That water pipe is very similar to one tube in a 300 radiator. If your hot water pipe had fins on it, much more heat would be transferred to your attic air. You might also consider what happens when you add a row of tubes to a radiator. The total flow rate probably does not change much, but the velocity is lowered in each tube and allows increased cooling in each tube and the total flow. The design engineer is charged with making the compromises to obtain a design level of cooling at all anticipated operating conditions while keeping costs, weight and parasitic load on the engine from cooling fans down. Economics drives these compromises so we see electric fans and fans with speed varying with air temperature and smaller and smaller radiators with more energy from the engine being devoted to driving cooling fans of one type or another. The radiator on my 120 HP '50 Windsor was a huge honeycomb design and no doubt had a very conservative design that enabled it to chug slowly up Pike's Peak without an overheating problem while V-8 Chebb**s and F**ds had to pull over and let their motors cool down (Refer to "Maybelline") A CADILLAC PULLED UP TO 104 BEFORE IT GOT HOT IT WOULD DO NO MORE IT DONE GOT CLOUDY AND STARTED TO RAIN I TOOTED MY HORN FOR THE PASSING LANE A RAIN WATER BLOWING ALL UNDER MY HOOD I NEW THAT WAS DOING MY MOTOR GOOD THE WATER COOLED DOWN THE HEAT WENT DOWN BUT UNDER THE HOOD THE HIGHWAY SOUND CADILLAC SAT LIKE A TOWING LANE 110 A HALF A MILE AHEAD CADILLAC LOOK LIKE IT WAS STANDING STILL I CAUGHT MAYBELLINE AT THE TOP OF THE HILL A little rain, snow or mist will hit a hot radiator and increase heat transfer as it evaporates. Chuck Berry knew that and it enabled him to catch Maybelline's Caddy with his F**d. Ingesting a little moisture into a 300's carbs can also be beneficial to combustion. Cleanliness is next to good design in heat transfer. A slight buildup of corrosion or other film on the inside of a radiator or engine water passage acts as an insulator and can have a huge effect on cooling. And, antifreeze breaks down with time. A small portion of it gets very hot for a short time around the cylinder walls and heads with localized boiling and high temperature degradation of the glycol. You can see some of the greasy black crud that is oxidized and decomposed glycol in your overflow bottle. Periodic draining, flushing and antifreeze replacement are good medicine for our aging fleet of 300's as well as for all IC engines. I'm not real familiar with the stuff, but there is an additive that changes the mechanical and thermal properties of the water-glycol mix to achieve improved heat transfer. There was a question on the action of 160 degree thermostats vs. 180 degree thermostats. I believe they have identical flow areas when open--the only difference being that the lower temperature T-stat opens sooner. When the engine is at desired operating temperature, the t-stat certainly cycles between full open to full close and no doubt is partially open at times. A bypass line is usually present to enable some flow through the pump when the coolant is cold and below the t-stat operating temp. Finally: The parts manual indicates the same radiator was used for all '55-'56 hemi Chryslers w/o a/c, including the C-300 and 300B and also DeSotos and Windsors with a/c. This with a 20% higher horsepower rating for the 300's over the single four barrel carb NY's & Imp's. Apparently, the higher speeds at the highest horsepower operating level forced enough air through the radiator to hold down temperature during highest speed runs. Any experience to share regarding operating temperature of C-300's at 100-125 MPH+? Offered for your consideration, not as a criticism. Understanding how our 300's percolate is important to extend their life and increase our enjoyment of them in hot and cold weather. C-300'ly, Rich Barber 1955 Chrysler C-300 (runs cooler at 80 MPH than at 5 MPH--zero MPH is even worse. An electric fan and box shroud would probably help alleviate that.) -----Original Message----- From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of mgoodknight@xxxxxxxx Sent: Monday, June 22, 2009 3:01 PM To: MRS954@xxxxxxx Cc: mplindahl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx; chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx; yelof@xxxxxxxx Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] -'63 300 fuel/hot engine In my many years of studying engines I've heard the story several times about coolant flowing too fast through the radiator! I don't buy it! Remember that the flow rate through the block is the same as the flow rate through the radiator. That means if you give the coolant more time to lose heat in the radiator you are also giving it more time to gain heat in the engine block---------result is still HOT. My only conclusion then is the radiator is too small for the conditions it's used in (unlikely), it has lost cooling capacity because of clogged water passages in the core (or thermostat), or insufficient air flow through the radiator core. Of course there is a vast list of potential mechanical problems with the engine that can produce excessive heat that a properly functioning cooling system is unable to handle. Marshall in Florida ____________________________________________________________ Find solutions for your business. 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