
Re: [Chrysler300] Water Temp and engine bay heat issues
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Re: [Chrysler300] Water Temp and engine bay heat issues
- From: "Dave Schwandt" <finsruskw@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2009 12:39:52 -0500
Just got new NAPA hoses for the F a couple of weeks ago, and no spring in
the lower one.
Dave Schwandt
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Mc Adams" <clafong@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 2009 12:13 PM
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Water Temp and engine bay heat issues
> To all:
>
>
>
> Regarding all engine high temperature problems, I have not yet noticed any
> mention of the lower radiator hose. I have heard over the years that
> particularly if your water pump is a high output model, sometimes at
> higher
> rpm's the lower hose (that returns the radiator water to the engine - also
> called the suction hose) can collapse, obviously causing a major
> restriction
> in water flow. That is why in the past, some water hoses used to have
> coil
> springs inside to prevent or at least reduce the possibility of this
> happening. This phenomenon is basically impossible to detect while
> driving
> down the highway.
>
>
>
> Now I am not saying that this is happening on current hoses, and certainly
> not at lower rpm's like stuck in traffic etc. but if you are having heat
> problems at freeway speeds, install one of those coiled springs in the
> lower
> hose. It just might help. The guy at the parts house just stares blankly
> at me when I ask for one of these but he gladly let me look through all of
> his hoses until I found one that fit.
>
>
>
> Also, if you are having overheating problems, or maybe just "think" you
> are
> having overheating problems. How accurate is your temp gauge on the dash
> and the sensor that runs it? What does it mean when the needle is
> pointing
> before, at, or past the "P"? Do you keep on going up that long hill until
> the engine starts to ping like mad, or make worse noises? I carry one of
> those infrared heat detectors that you point and shoot in the glove box,
> right next to the tire pressure gauge. When the temperature gauge on the
> dash indicates a possible problem, I just pull over, quickly raise the
> hood
> and point the IR detector at various parts of the engine compartment and
> the
> upper and lower parts of the radiator (watch out for that moving fan and
> belts) to get a better idea of what is really going on under there.
>
>
>
> Lastly, have your radiator cap pressure tested or just buy a new one.
> Check
> the fan belts for proper tension and condition. If you suspect the
> thermostat is not working properly, take it out and drop it into a pot of
> water. Gradually increase the temp of the water while measuring the water
> temp to see if it opens at about the proper temperature and that it opens
> fully. Don't forget to use a fresh gasket when re-installing the
> thermostat. And if you have A/C (at least on my '62 300) have fun
> re-installing the A/C compressor that is in the way of that second bolt on
> the thermostat housing. That is one of my biggest complaints of a stupid
> design by Mopar. Every time I take off the A/C compressor and/or
> thermostat
> housing I also replace the temperature sensor which is also conveniently
> hidden underneath that A/C compressor.
>
>
>
>
>
> Big John Mc Adams
>
> (In SoCal)
>
>
>
>
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>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
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>
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>
>
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