Re: [Chrysler300] rear brake drum removal

["John" <john@xxxxxxxxx>]

Rich,

I might also add that when I use a puller to remove a rear brake drum I reverse the castle nut.  If this is done you have more contact surface area at the end of the axle and less chance for distortion of the threaded area.  Years ago I dealt with a stubborn drum that had to sit for a couple of days with the puller loaded against the axle.  There was some distortion of the threaded area by not reversing the nut.

This was taught to me by a long time friend and master mechanic and I've found it to work.

John Lazenby


  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Rich Barber 
  To: 'richard ames' ; Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
  Sent: Friday, June 12, 2009 11:14 AM
  Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] rear brake drum removal





  Richard:

  See below from our club website. I purchased one for my '55 and it worked
  great. Please be sure to leave the axle nut on, but backed off 1/4" or so.
  Otherwise you may end up wearing the hub when it pops off. Kind of crude,
  but hell for stout and works fine due to more lug attachments and more
  pulling power.

  http://www.chrysler300club.com/rcmstuff/partsforsale.html

  C-300'ly,
  Rich Barber
  Brentwood, CA
  1955 Chrysler C-300

  Item 19.

  Rear Brake Drum Puller:
  Click here for pictures and info. It consists of a 6"x6"x5/8" steel plate
  with the 5 holes drilled on the 4 1/2" bolt pattern that all Mopars, except
  Imperial, use. For 1956 and newer cars that have studs on the drum, we made
  elongated nuts (1 3/8" long) by drilling and tapping hex rod for right and
  left hand thread. We cut right & left hand threaded studs to length and
  screwed them about half way into the elongated nuts and tack welded them
  into place to maintain the right length. You screw the five elongated nuts
  onto the stud on the drum. The studs stick out beyond the axle far enough to
  install the plate over the studs and sits against the axle shaft. You put a
  nut & washer on each stud & tighten them until the drum comes off. It pulls
  on all five studs and is shorter & sturdier than three legged pullers.
  The puller for pre-1956 Mopars uses the same plate but the hardware is
  different to attach to those drums that have threaded holes in the drum. I
  sell them with the guarantee that if you are not satisfied with the puller,
  send it back for a refund. So far no one has sent one back. The puller for
  1956 and newer cars sells for $100.00. The kit that includes hardware for
  pulling pre-1956 drums is $125.00. Add $12.00 for UPS shipping within US. To
  order, send a check made to Les Fairbanks to T & L Mold 1246 E. Empire Ave.
  Benton Harbor, MI 49022. I have a few pullers made up and usually ship the
  same day I get the check. Thanks, Les email: lessue52@xxxxxxxxxxx (06/11/09)

  -----Original Message-----
  From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
  Behalf Of richard ames
  Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2009 5:35 PM
  To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
  Subject: [Chrysler300] rear brake drum removal

  I have a 300c and am having difficulty getting the rear brake drums off. 
  Removing the safety nut and using the proper puller, they still just son't
  want to come off.  Any ideas?
  Richard Ames  300 club member

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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  Links



  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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