RE: [Chrysler300] Paint Type, 300-D, other early 300s?!

[christopher beilby <thelastbestgenius@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

OK I am in Australia, and Australia may not have the severe cold/ice winters the US and Europe have, but I will tell you one excellent acrylic paint, if it still available, and that is PPG. And our summers, ultra violets, would be every bit worse than any US !!?
 
My roughest 300C was luckily arrow straight, with no rust under a now badly faded repaint paint, so I blocked it back to factory red primer base, and repainted in the factory coral (Gauguin Red) about 12 years ago - as a temporary until I got around to do whatever it needed  !!?
Since then the car has rarely been in a garage/shed, and yet the basically red/orange based paint has not chalked/faded/aged, (red/orange the most prone to fade/chalk problems over time), and it seems as hard as two pack - it is a solid color.
 
PPG have a website (I think called Autocolor, can check if it is not, and give you full address) on which they list virtually every year for every US make - sample original color charts, plus formula codes etc, and how to order, prices.
 
'Playing god', and wanting it equal of any in the world, I however did my '62 XKE Jag Roadster in their solid color two pack enamel, and for me, any difference is not worth the grief, and as regards looking original, I would not use two pack again.
 
Here in Australia, as of Dec 31, acrylic car paint containing lead will, care of Fed Govt, be illegal to manufacture, and after PPG bought out a lessor aussie paint Co, they stopped their few small local stockists importing their good US product, and branded the local 'lessor', as PPG.  So after research/asking around, I switched to Spartan, I found it near as good as former US PPG, and have just bought about 7 lots of 8litres mixed factory colors for many of the cars I own, for the future. Spartan here are maybe here today, gone forever, as they too bought out by overseas multinational, and seemingly only being kept as long as it suits them. However my local supplier tells me despite all this, they are selling more and more to overseas buyers.
 
Anyhow, if you (still) lucky US guys/gals can (still easily) get the genuine US PPG acrylic, with made in Strongsville Ohio, as printed on the can, give it a try for your show or user 300s. Plus odds are you will get it mixed to original factory formula. But how long before US bans the original PPG tinters re any lead, those in US may know - maybe this has happened already?!
 
But 'two pack heroes', will not have a bar of anything else - to each their own. As it is with 'solid color', versus using 'clear coat over the top' heroes/users - on my experiences, the real top restorers, panel shops, prefer soliod color.
 
Christopher 



To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx; yesdnil@xxxxxxxxxxx: r41hp@xxxxxxxxxxxxx: Wed, 17 Dec 2008 21:38:26 -0800Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Paint Type, 300-D



This comes up every so often. Lindsey, John suggested "repair results" of two-stage paints not "longevity." I don't know if you guys own new-ish vehicles with base/clear AND wash/polish/wax them yourself. I have a 2006 Jeep and I feel like if I sneeze on the clearcoat, it's going to scratch. Never mind try to get some tree sap or bird crap off of it.I also worked in a body shop for a year and a half a while back and repaired and sprayed both single and two-stage paints. Yes the two stage paints are easier to spray and easier to repair. But my G coupe was single-stage painted about 23 years ago, and I've driven it at least 70K miles in the last 21. I'm not very good to the paint, but when I want to polish it up it looks decent, and appropriate. Sure it has a lot of stone chips (and a couple touch ups on the lower body) but I'm sure if it was two-stage the clear would have had to be reshot years ago to keep it up. I just don't think the clear coats are more durable, easier to repair yes, but not more durable. So, for our purposes, a single stage is more durable and more correct looking. I guess if you want your car look shiny perfect for every show, you can reshoot the clear coat whenever you want. In my experience (especially if you have a driver) it will need repairs less often, and look more correct, with a single stage.Keep in mind, not a lot of shops shoot single stage any more. They will try to convince you that two-stage is "better" since they are set up for it and used to using it. It may be a self-fulfilling prophecy since those shops may get poor results with single stage since they are not using it all the time. And it will be more expensive. Shop around or DIY!  Andy Mikonisin cold, snowy Chicago--- On Wed, 12/17/08, Lindsey Fuller <yesdnil@xxxxxxx> wrote:From: Lindsey Fuller <yesdnil@xxxxxxx>Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Paint Type, 300-DTo: "Chrysler 300 Club" <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>Date: Wednesday, December 17, 2008, 8:58 PMI am in Ryan's camp as I intend to drive my E, not trailer it around. Longevity of the base/clear finish is the main factor for me. I won't be restoring this one again & it should still look pretty nice in 10+ yrs.Lindsey FullerWinnipegJohn wrote:>Hi all->>I'm trying to decide what type of paint I will have my Ermine White 300-D coupe painted.>>Should I go with a single stage acrylic, or a two-stage basecoat/clearcoat? For originality' s sake, I would think that a single-stage paint would be better, but I intend to be putting 5000-6000 miles a year on the car once it is back on the road - so it is going to exposed to more road debris than many 50-year-old automobiles - and I understand the two-stage paint has better repair results.>>Thanks!>>John Spiers>Lake Worth, Florida>>>> >>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]>>>----------- --------- --------- ------->>To send a message to this group, send an email to:>Chrysler300@ yahoogroups. com>>For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler 300club.com/ yahoolist/ inst.htm>>For archives go to http://www.forwardl ook.net/300- archive/Yahoo! Groups Links>>>>> >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] 





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