Re: [Chrysler300] The rest of the story? - 300-K

["Ron Stewart" <ronstewart31@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

nuff is a nuff, simple take dist.toa a ignition shop or tune up shop put on dist. machine and have it analysed. optioned #2 buy a new one from mopar ,  simple , have agood day 
c300 ron
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Warren Anderson 
  To: spiers@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx ; Chrysler 300 Club Intl ; Blohm, Robert 
  Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 6:17 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] The rest of the story? - 300-K



  I have not heard that the problem is resolved, so, the ignition coil is not designed to run at full battery voltage. The ballst resistor actually limits the current through the coil otherwise it will burn up. 

  With a super heated coil, I would look at voltage at the coil first. This should be 7 volts lets say on one side with the points closed. If it is always 7 volts, even with engine cranking, there is a incorrect maintained path to ground on the distributor side of the circuit but the ballast resistor is doing its job (and assuming that battery voltage is say above 12.5 volts)

  A working properly 12V test light with one lead grounded and the other on the distributor side of the coil MUST blink as the engine is cranked. No light ever and somewhere the circuit is being pulled to ground always. Light on always, key in run position, there is no circuit; there is no circuit continuity. Simple quick tests with a dime store test light.

  I have seen the insulation in a point assembly itself fail (as well as the coil to distributor wire and connecting strap inside and the condenser and other things) and cause a no start. Problem like this is easily isolated with the simple 12V test light. 

  Warren Anderson
  Sedona,AZ

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