Re: [Chrysler300] Brake Switch Problem Solution for Pressure-Type Brake Switch Vehicles

["loren and helen nelson" <lorenhelen@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

I rebuilt the brakes on my G in the early to mid 1980's and used silicone fluid. I just went and checked and my brake lights work fine. The car was stored from 1992 to early 2007 and the brakes worked fine when pulled out of the garage. Once or twice a year I checked the brakes while in storage and gave them some exercise. I could only locate 1 new brake cylinder when I rebuilt them and I honed the old ones. Some looked iffy when I reassembled them and they are still working today. I have only added a small amount of fluid in all the years and still have some left in the original quart that I bought. 
I also have a 1937 Studebaker coupe with a nearly identical brake light switch to the Chrysler. I am rebuilding the Stude brakes now and have replaced the wheel cylinders with NOS thanks to eBay. I also replaced the rubber parts with new. I plan to use silicone in the Studebaker. If the switch fails I'll replace it with the spare I bought on eBay for the Chrysler. I had rebuilt the Studebaker brakes with regular fluid before the Chrysler and had wheel cylinders freeze most every year and eventully a leaky master cylinder. 
I think silicone is the only way to go for a car that is stored for any length of time. 
Loren Nelson
In cooler than usual Cumming, GA

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: john begian 
  To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
  Sent: Saturday, May 24, 2008 8:42 AM
  Subject: [Chrysler300] Brake Switch Problem Solution for Pressure-Type Brake Switch Vehicles


  Hi All---

  For those who are experiencing issues with their brake switches on cars with silicone fluid, I would like to offer this suggestion. It comes from correcting the same issue on a Stude (same type of brake switch) with silicone brake fluid.

  After 2 years, I noticed I could not stand on the brake pedal hard enough to activate the brake lights. Off to auto parts to replace switch. That one lasted one year. Subsequent trips and switches lasted about the same time. One of our club members in Wisconsin found a solution. This member works at a major motorcycle manufacturer located in southern WI. 

  Head over to your Harley-Davidson store and get P/N 72023-51D, Brake Light Switch Kit, Rear. This switch has the same thread as is found on the pressure switches (just compared my Stude to my Chrysler and they are the same). H-D has used this switch for several years with silicone brake fluid and has virtually no warranty issues. Switch costs approx $18 (as of July,2007). It comes with some spade connectors since the terminal ends are not the same as the bullet types on the old switch. Make yourself a jumper harness, and voila! Brake lights and you don't need to have a gorilla stand on the pedal to make them work! And it lasts!

  Several Stude members have used this solution to fix the problem, and no complaints. So give it a try if you have the brake light issue.

  Hope this helps someone out there!

  See you in Wisconsin,

  John Begian
  Saline, MI
  G ragtop


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