Re: [Chrysler300] silicon brake switch problems

["RLS" <obiwan10@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

I've always had a problem with my B's stop lights.  I have replaced a couple of switches.  Brake lights will not illuminate when engine is not running(ignition switch on) unless I stand on pedal very hard.  With engine running it is not necessary to stand as hard(brake booster help).

I have always used silicone fluid since restoration.  Perhaps this is causing the problem??

Roger Schaaf
Calyfornua
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: johnl 
  To: tehoema@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx ; chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx ; cotejohnr@xxxxxxx 
  Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2008 9:38 AM
  Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] silicon brake switch problems


  Of our seven collector cars only one (1957 300C) has silicone brake fluid. It was in the car when I purchased it back in '95. Over the years I've probably replaced a dozen switches because they continually fail. I now carry one or two spares in the glove box of the car for this reason.

  A few years back I installed the AAJ disc brake kit on the front of this car and still have the same issue with the exception of the car stopping much better than before. The pedal has always felt more "spongy" than any of the other cars so I installed steel braded lines on the front and that greatly improved the problem.

  As John Cote states I've had the ongoing problem of no brake lights when stepping on the pedal, but have never had one stick on. As John states it could be the piston in they master sticking. I've also experienced on a '56 New Yorker that if the adjustment of the free play in the pedal was to tight the stop lights would stay on and on occasion the brakes would lock up after driving the car and getting everything warm.

  John Lazenby, Southern California

  1955 Chrysler New Yorker Deluxe Town & Country
  1955 Imperial Newport
  1955 Chrysler C300 Tango Red
  1956 Chrysler 300B Cloud White
  1957 Chrysler 300C Coupe Raven Black
  1960 Chrysler 300F Coupe Alaskan White
  1963 Volkswagen Beetle Black
  2000 BMW 323ci Titanium Silver Metallic w/Red Leather
  2001 BMW ///M5 Titanium Silver Metallic (A Modern Super Car)
  http://www.bmwmregistry.com/model_faq.php?id=18
  2002 Mercury Mountaineer Premier (V8)

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: cotejohnr@xxxxxxx 
  To: tehoema@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx ; chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
  Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2008 8:04 AM
  Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] silicon brake switch problems

  Terry,
  In my experience with brake switches with silicone fluid:
  1. The brake lights DON'T work when stepping on pedal. I've never had them stick ON.
  2. The switch will not work again even if cleaned.

  Don't think refilling MC with regular brake fluid and leaving the rest of the system silicone would be recommended. ie; One likes water and the other doesn't, so it would be a battle of the hygroscopics and the hydrophobics.

  Since your lights are sticking on, could it be the piston in the MC is not moving backwards and releasing pressure fully on the whole system. Got brake drag and a low pedal after initial push?

  John Cote

  -----Original Message-----
  From: Terry & Andree Hoeman <tehoema@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
  Sent: Thu, 22 May 2008 10:33 am
  Subject: [Chrysler300] silicon brake switch problems

  Just pulled one of my 55 chryslers out of storage and found that the brake 

  lights are sticking on. Noticed the note last eve which mentioned shorting 

  of switch as a result of silicone fluid and bet that is my problem. This is 

  my only 55 with silicone darn it. Lots of others without it at least.

  I remember the discussion--just enough to be dangerous. Can the switch be 

  removed and cleaned or does it need replaced? I suppose I need to replace 

  the silicone fluid than also or take a chance and wait till it goes bad 

  again? Can I just refill the master cylinder with regular fluid and leave 

  the silicon in the wheel cylinders?

  Thanks for guidance in advance.

  Terry Hoeman 

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