[Chrysler300] Coils

["George Riehl" <longrams@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Lauren;
  According to published information I have, Sun Electric Corporation, Chicago, Ill., and Automotive Electric Association, Detroit, Michigan, list Chrysler coils of that era, Chrysler # 1688212 or Auto Lite #200567, at a rate of current at the coil tower is 22,000 volts.  Ignition current with engine stopped (ignition on) is 3.0 amps, engine ideling is at 1.9 amps. Primary resistance is 1.65 to 1.79 OHMS. Secondary resistance is 8,000 to 9,200 OHMS. Coil windings are cooled with "transformer oil". During running operation, the coil will get "warm" due to the conversion of the electrial current, basically at the coil tower which is the discharge point.
  High performance coils can run upwards of 70,000 volts. regardless of epoxy or oil filled. Either can "explode" due to an internal short in the coil windings. High performance coils will create more heat and are generally "finned" on the outer casing for cooling. 
  Higher voltage coils (performance) do create more heat and put a strain on the secondary wires (plug wires) and that is why there are 8mm to 9mm wires available with heavier insulating covers to "hold in" the current. Higher current at the plug electrodes causes rapid erosion and increases the gap leading to mis-fire.
  A "hot" coil suggests that there could be an inter short in the windings due to "over cranking" during engine start. What most people do not understand, a 12 volt coil is really not a true 12 volt. It is a 7.2 volt coil during the engine run.  A 12 volt coil will actually produce 14.2 (as a 12V battery is actuslly rated at 14.2 volts) volts in the starter engagement. During start, it is producing 14.2 volts to the coil. When the engine runs and the key is turned in the "run" position, 14.2 vols are passed thru the ballast resister and the output is approx. 7.2 volts which then goes to the "batt" side of the coil. The coil then operates on 6.5 to 7.2 volts to the points. By-passing the ballast resister and sending 14.2 volts to the coil will cause too hot a spark at the pionts and then they will "burn out" (erode).
  The position of the coil mounted on the engine or other location has no bearing what so ever on its operation. Location is determined by what space is available on or around the engine and its components. Also for servicability. Generally, it is located somewhere that an air flow can help cooling. 
  There are other factors that may cause a coil to "heat up" beyond normal. Poor ground in the dist., corroded connections in both the primary and secondary wiring connections, bad condensor, bad ground wire on the dist. plate. Needless to say, a "weak" battery that may test out at only 12 to 13.5 volts with a presumed "full" charge.  If a "weak" battery, it is enough to start the engine, but when running, the alt./gen. provides needed current untill the battery finally "quits" due to additional load by other components.

  For you 6v people out there, the battery is rated at 6.8 - 7.2 volts with a 6 volt coil actually rated at 7.2 volts with no ballast resistor in the system. You are running the same voltage to the coil as a normal 12 volt system. With the exception of the starter, 7.2 volts versus 14.2 volts, etc.
   George Riehl 












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