Re: [Chrysler300] charging

["Warren Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

  Places that sell batteries will be able to test yours. Would be next logical thing to do. 

  Even 'back in the day', disconnecting a battery cable was never a good idea for any reason. Let's say, car runs but will not restart after shut down unless boost started from maybe another battery. Best guess with that scenario is alternator is working. But, bad battery or bad battery cables or connections (car does not have emergency clamp on connections on battery posts, right?) could be the problem. So best time spent would be to test battery independently, completely disconnected from car electrical system. Good cables with clean terminations. Belden Power Path cables for one good brand will definately out perform cheap cables from Auto Zone or Checker for instance. 

  Power interruption at the battery posts, intentional or otherwise, will send a big voltage spike through the electrical system. An induced electrical spike of such magnitude will blow electronics, light bulbs and an alternator. Pull a cable on a computer controlled car and replacing the computers can run into the thousands of dollars.

  And, I long ago made it a policy to never jump start one vehicle from another vehicle until the engine on the running vehicle is shut down for the sole purpose of protecting the charging system (and electronics) on the vehicle with the good battery. 

  If your computer controlled car absolutely won't shut down, find the fuel pump fuse or the computer fuse and pull one or the other to shut it down. Pulling a battery cable will cause destruction and pulling a fuse won't. Engine not running the cables can be pulled but key off always and on the dash if can be done 

  Warren Anderson
  Sedona,AZ
  (and soon to be in Seattle for a few days)

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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