Re: [Chrysler300] Trailering a 300D
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Re: [Chrysler300] Trailering a 300D



Well John, there you have it. Have Lee pull your car too; since he has the capability for towing two cars at a time. Problem solved!!!!!!!!


Joe
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Lee Meyer 
  To: 'JoeyPilot' ; 'John' ; chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
  Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 12:00 PM
  Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Trailering a 300D


  Howdy, I do a lot of towing, like 50-100k miles a year or more, I think we went over this towing thing a couple years ago but it's probably a good thing to revisit from time to time. So here are a few things to consider.

  A 16 foot trailer is fine if it is rated at 7000lbs. They are easier to park and maneuver, are lighter, and cheaper. Also easier to tie a car down in the rear sometimes because the car overhang gives plenty of room to get under it. A big car will hang off the back a foot or so, but that is no big deal really. Good electric brakes are a must, preferably on both axles. The 12 inch side rails are going to be a nightmare. You will hate them almost immediately. Get a flatbed type with plenty of tie down spots. The side rails will make it difficult to load, tie down, and open the doors, etc. side rails are for garbage haulers.  I have put a jillion miles on a 16 foot trailer hauling the hugest of cars, late 50s Imperials, 300s etc. and it worked very well. I now have an 18 foot trailer and it also works very well. I don't think a 20 footer is necessary, more costly, takes up more space, heavier and is harder to maneuver and park. Heavier always translates to worse fuel mileage and limits your available carry weight. 

  What you pull it with is probably more important. Stated towing capacities are misleading. If a vehicle is rated at 8000lb, which basically means it is maxed out at that, and only on a nice flat road at 55 mph. It seems every time I go on a trip I have noticed there are hills, curves, swerves and bad roads along the way. I think you can practically chop that 8000lb rating in half to be realistic. Just because the vehicle will pull that much doesn't necessarily mean you should. 

  Bare minimum vehicle for pulling a loaded car hauler under any circumstances should be a ¾ ton truck. Nobody ever wants to hear it but that is just the way it is. I am not in charge of the laws of physics. A half ton anything is a piece of crap. An SUV anything is a piece of crap. A minivan is a piece of crap. A big huge 60s or 70s land barge car is a piece of crap. Insufficient brakes, suspension, frame strength and or chassis rigidity, power and weight are a few reasons why. The pieces of crap mentioned will all physically pull a loaded car trailer. If you have to do any sudden stops, quick maneuvering, have a flat tyre, or do any evasive or emergency action your chances of ending up doomed in a fiery crash are pretty good. Pretty much because you were either cheap or stupid or both. 

  The minimum vehicle, the ¾ ton truck will be able to pull just fine and handle any road and or emergency issues fairly well for the part time tow vehicle. If you will tow frequently then there is no substitute for the 1 ton dually. Much better everything equipment-wise and rock solid stability under any load, speed or road conditions. Virtually unaffected by wind and weather as well. In my opinion anything gas powered is a piece of crap as well. A diesel will get twice the mileage and 2-4 times the engine longevity over gas. Way more power as well.  I'm sure you half ton hemi SUV guys are out there freaking out right now, thinking you are king of the road, well you're not. 

  A stone stock dodge diesel makes twice the torque of your hemi thing and it does it at 2000 rpm. My truck is closer to 4x. Torque is king in a tow rig, it helps keep you alive. A big diesel truck is also very heavy. Heavy is good, makes for a stable ride and is not too likely to be affected by the trailer.

  If you are not willing to step up to using a ¾ ton truck at least for various reasons or you will not be towing very often then pay a pro to haul your car. It's cheaper in the long run, less stress etc. Less stress on me as well, as it will minimize the chances I will have to safely swerve out of the way of your doomed fiery wreckage.

  When I was 16, I had a trailer hitch on my 70 mustang. I rented a tow bar, hooked up to my new purchase of a 72 chevelle heavy chevy and went down the road. The ford 351 pulled just fine! Went for my first turn and the chevy just kept going straight, dragging the ass of the mustang over jackknifing the whole shebang. Just because you can physically pull it doesn't mean you should. 

  My current tow rig is a 98 dodge quad cab 3500 dually, Cummins turbo diesel, 5 speed manual trans. I use a 10,000 lb draw tight hitch and 10,000 lb drawbar. Engine has mods, makes about 500 hp and 1000 ft lbs of torque. It has 255,000 miles on it, still burns zero oil and gets 20 mpg.

  Good luck! 

  Lee in San Diego

  -----Original Message-----
  From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of JoeyPilot
  Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 10:06 AM
  To: John; chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
  Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Trailering a 300D



  John, you are right, the listserver does have vast experience in towing. I 
  would like to add my .02 cents also. Do not buy or use a trailer that cannot 
  carry 7000 pounds. My car trailer is 20' and my G fits good on it without 
  overhang. The trailer in my opinion must have brakes on all wheels. And just 
  as importantly, you must use a vehicle that can handle the kind of weight 
  you are going to pull. That is the car and the weight of the trailer too. 
  Mine weighs 2000 pounds itself. The Durango has lots of go with the Hemi, 
  but is maxed out at 6000 pounds tow capacity. You will be over that with car 
  and trailer together. Even my 1/2 ton Silverado is rated at 8600 pounds 
  which is better; but a 3/4 ton truck is the ticket. And lastly, don't drive 
  too fast, that just spells trouble regardless of setup. Good Luck!

  Joe Schmitt
  Everett, WA

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "John" <spiers@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  Sent: Friday, January 05, 2007 7:15 PM
  Subject: [Chrysler300] Trailering a 300D

  >I am considering buying a used 16' x 6-1/2' car hauler to carry my 300-D 
  >home to Florida from South Carolina. I've picked this particular trailer 
  >because the price is right- I didn't want to spend $5,000 on a custom 
  >enclosed trailer I'll hardly use. The trailer has a 12 inch high fence on 
  >the front and sides, and none at the rear
  >
  > From the vast experience of the members of this listserver, am I going to 
  > be able to load a D on a trailer of those flatbed dimensions and a 12" 
  > high fence around the front & side perimeter? I know the overall width of 
  > a D is 79.6", but the front tire track is 61.2"
  >
  > Importantly, the bumpers will NOT be on the car. I think this will 
  > affect both the maximum width and the amount of front overhang ahead of 
  > the front tires.
  >
  > Thanks,
  > John Spiers
  >
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