How's about the vacuum advance plate moving when you give it some throttle off idle. Check the wiring in your distributor to ensure that movement of the plate is not pulling your hot wire apart causing your stall from lack of juice to the points. A failed ballast resistor could cause similar problems. You get 12 volts at start with ignition switch starter position, but then reverts to path thru the ballast as soon as key is released. But this would be instant failure as soon as key is released after starting, so car would not run even a few seconds after release. Any issues with fuel pump pushrod or cam? Any plugged up fuel filters? If it was flooding, you probably should smell gasoline and car probably would not easily start. My bet is on ignition. Roger Schaaf 300 B, Calyfornua ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx> To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2005 1:07 PM Subject: [Chrysler300] Engine trouble - still......... '65 300 > Several months ago I approached this listserve to try and solve a > mysterious > engine problem I was experiencing. Well, I've been busy with other things > and haven't spent much time trying to figure out the problem until this > past > weekend. I'm still stumped! > > Brand new, completely rebuilt 383 4BBl (AFB). Started right up and broke > in > the cam with no signs of trouble. Very responsive, ran smooth, everything > normal. Car is not complete so I haven't driven it further than the end of > my driveway. After running it for an hour or so over the course of a week, > it started to run rough when warm. Seemed like it was flooding a bit. Very > quickly it began running only when first started, then it would stall. > (would run about 4-5 seconds max) > > After replacing the fuel pump and no change, I replaced the carb with an > old > AFB I had laying around. It ran with the second carb leading me to believe > my rebuild of the original was flawed. After a few days of running the car > in the driveway to move it around the same symptoms returned. Now the car > would only run shortly when lightly primed. > > I've checked all the fuel lines for leaks, run the car directly from a > gravity feed tank straight to the fuel pump, checked the vacuum (no leaks > evident), the timing and dwell are right on, I've hotwired the car to rule > out electrical problems, I've checked the float levels.......When the car > starts up it runs smooth and fires right away but then stumbles and > stalls. > With the idle screw backed right off so the primaries are completely > closed, > it will start with no pumping (of the throttle) over and over. It starts, > runs for a few seconds at low idle, then stalls. Any attempt at giving it > some throttle stalls it immediately. I'm almost convinced it is flooding. > > Does anyone have any bright ideas? > > Ryan Hill > > > > > > To send a message to this group, send an email to: > Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > > For list server instructions, go to > http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor --------------------~--> Get fast access to your favorite Yahoo! Groups. Make Yahoo! your home page http://us.click.yahoo.com/dpRU5A/wUILAA/yQLSAA/8LmulB/TM --------------------------------------------------------------------~-> To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/