Over-torquing is now a greater >possibility than before because most of the modern >cars call for upwards of 85 ft-lbs. on the lug nuts >instead of the 65 ft-lbs. we are supposed to have. The >installers sometimes forget to readjust their >pneumatic torque wrenches. The proper tool to use when tightening wheel fasteners is an accurete, hand powered torque wrench. Anything pneumatic powered in a tire shop is an impact wrench and is not acceptable. There are torque limiting 'torque sticks' that are used with air guns but they are compromised in accuracy by so many factors that good tire shops that know what they are doing won't use them. See a stack of torque wrenches on tool boxes in a tire shop and that is the shop to use for tire work. BTW, alloy wheels absolutely will not tolerate zip up air guns and stretched studs with bad threads and worn out studs and nuts are the result of gun use with steel wheels. Nuts that are distorted and are not free to turn on the studs are probably the victims of overzealous air gun use (or corrosion as another factor, maybe). DGF (NAPA has it) works very well on wheel fasteners as a lube (it is NASCAR spec'd stuff, I think also) and doesn't collect dirt like my favorite Never-Seez lube and provides some corrosion protection. Even, net clamp load is what is important in keeping wheels on a vehicle and running true. HTH Warren Anderson Sedona,AZ