Re: [Chrysler300] Flanged bushing retention

["Warren R Anderson" <wranderson@xxxx>]

>Here's a reply George Riehl sent to me, which I'll share with all:
>
> Fine to put my comments on the server. Can't really see spending $75.00
for
>a tool used once by the average person.
>
>Having watched the continuing discussion about the bushing, this is what I
>have to say....in 45 some years I have never reamed the bushing. Just knock
>the old one out, install the new bronze one with a peice of pipe. Never had
>one turn in the block nor was ever too tight on the dist. drive shaft.

Chrysler is very specific about sizing this bushing. They state do not ream.
May be worried about the bore staying straight or - - -.

The latest factory recognized problem with this bushing that we are aware of
was addressed in a service bulletin dated November 26, 1993 (have it right
in front of me). The recommended procedure is to use the two tools we have
been discussing. Two parts are to be replaced to correct knocking noise at
rear of engine and driveability complaints. One is the drive shaft (which is
new part number) and the bushing p/n 01737725 which is the old number. Shaft
problem and NOT bushing problem? HMMM? No mention of bushing spinning etc.
just SHAFT wear. Maybe someone is aware of other distributor bushing
problems through the years with Chrysler engines. I personally have a lot of
personal miles on Chrysler V8's with no problems.

Things can get carried forth in production for maybe no real good reason
other than it has always worked so why change it. This burnished bushing
technique IMHO is a carry back to an old machinist technique that got into
production at Chrysler many years ago and might really not be all that
important today. In engineering we used to call such things 'sacred cows'
(and, boy, did we have a herd).

We bought the tools to fix one vehicle exactly per factory bulletin. We do
not think they cost half of what the price is today and we will use it
again. The piloted installer tool design I think is a great idea and far
better than a piece of pipe in inexperienced hands. This is the tool that
also burnishes. BUT, $75 for one engine at the hobbiest level; the job needs
to be sublet or find an acceptable alternative approach. BTW, I also have
engines running that I installed bushings in a long time ago without the
burnishing process or any other sizing technique and they are just fine,
thank you.

The one thing that the installer tool does is help line the bushing up
properly. The bugger must go in straight. After being in place, pushed in
straight, it's an interference fit so where can it go? Not up. Not down.
Around would take tremendous force. I had a shaft seize and break (non lube
problem) but the bushing still didn't move.

I would be happy to make our tool available to the engine builder that
wants to do the job the factory way and will pay shipping costs. The tool we
have has done one bushing, should be good for many more bushings and I do
not see it getting worn out or damaged carefully building club cars.

Old car people worry about tiny factory details a lot. This is one case that
might be more important than say the color of inspection paint dabs for
instance. By now, I had hoped that someone in this group would have rattled
out the exact historical reason for this procedure.

Warren Anderson
Sedona,AZ