Mark, Is it possible the rocker arm shafts are installed backwards, causing the lack of oil on the top end? If you have access to a shop manual there is a diagram showing the correct installation.The 2 wide brackets each have an oil groove that must be installed with the oil feed grooves facing the pushrod side of the rocker arms. The oil feed holes are 15 degrees off from the center line of the bolt going thru the bracket and the oil hole is only 3/16th of an inch so if they are installed wrong there is no oil to the rocker arm shafts. The only oil supply to the rocker arm shafts comes from the #4 cam bearing and is not full pressure but is an intermitent supply as holes drilled thru the camshaft journal line up with holes in the cam bearing. Have the cam bearings been replaced? If the holes in the bearing aren't lined up with the holes in the block it can louse up the upper end oiling. The chatter you hear could be rocker arms rattling on the shaft instead of being cushioned by oil. This should have no effect on the fuel pump cam on the front of the camshaft or the pushrod as they are oiled from oil slinging off the crankshaft and rod bearings as well as the front camshaft bearing. If cam bearings have been installed it is also possible the oil holes weren't lined up which also could prevent the pushrod from being properly lubricated. I doubt if the hardness, or lack thereof was a defective pushrod; but the heat generated by metal against metal without lubrication can soften hardened metal in a hurry. The fuel pump cam is between the front cam journal and the distributer drive gear on the camshaft. You might consider pulling the distributer and see if the gear that runs on the cam gear is running dry also and if so, and if the engine holds good oil pressure, that front cam bearing either was improperly installed or has turned in the block and is preventing it from receiving oil. Another possible cause of lack of lubrication in the top of the engine would be if the connecting rods were not installed so the v-groove in the cap is pointing up. This allows excess oil to be directed upward to provide lubrication to the under side of the pistons, wrist pins, cylinders and camshaft and the bottom of the lifters. Pardon me for rambling on, but it sounds like you have more than one problem and the two could all trace back to cam bearings. In a nutshell, the fuel pump pushrod gets its lubrication from the crankcase area and the rocker arms from oil supplied thru #4 cam bearing, and the only common thread is that part of the pushrod lubrication comes from oil being pumped thru #1 cam bearing flowing from the bearing back onto the lobe that drives the pushrod. If your oil pump were the problem, you would have had crankshaft bearing problems long before wearing 1/4 inch off the pushrod. How many miles does your engine have? Do you know if it has been worked on and if so, what was done and how long before the pushrod problem showed up? Has the oil pump ever been replaced? If not and if it's weak on pressure, I have had good luck with Melling High-volume pumps. --- Mark Souders <souders@xxxx> wrote: > Good Morning Group, > I managed to get the push rod out last night without > much difficulty. I > used a wood chisel to pry it out. After a small > burr cleared the hole, it > came right out. It was worn down by about 1/4 inch > from the top of the rod. > I pulled a valve cover and found out why the rod was > worn. There was no oil > on top of the engine. This explains the lifter > chatter, too. I pulled the > rods and lifters and there is no visible signs of > excessive wear, as a > matter of fact, there are no signs of any wear > except on that push rod. So > in addition to needing a pump push rod, looks like > I'm gonna need a new oil > pump too. I'm going to check the Rockwell on the > push rod, does anyone know > what the spec is for hardness of the rod? > Thanks for all the advice and tips, > Mark Souders > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: elmer tuuri [SMTP:eltuuri@xxxx] > > Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2003 10:20 PM > > To: crossram@xxxx; > Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > > Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 300H Fuel problem - > answer > > > > Does a worn pushrod make noise [knock]? We > diagnosed with a stethescope a > > noise coming from > > fuel pump-- no noticeable loss of power. I had a > 55 ford once [in late > > 50's] > > Seemed to be same > > problem-- changed pump- noise gone. Ordered new > pump. Should check pushrod > > > > too I guess > > 78 NY -400 > > Elmer Tuuri > > > > > > > > >From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxx> > > >To: Doug Warrener <dwarrener@xxxx>, > Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > > >Subject: [Chrysler300] 300H Fuel problem - answer > > >Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 16:21:11 -0400 > > > > > >To all, re fuel pump problems: > > > > > >It is not tremendously hard to hook up a fuel > pressure gauge, > > temporarily, > > >in-line, and drive the car while observing the > gauge. Loss of pressure at > > >higher RPM's under load will certainly pinpoint > the problem to a fuel > > >starvation issue, and save lots of diagnostics > time. Other starvation > > >causes > > >can be a clogged fuel sock in the tank pickup, as > well as rusty lines, or > > >(let's not overlook the obvious) a clogged filter > ! Blowing some > > compressed > > >air back into the fuel line BEFORE the fuel pump > (WITH GAS CAP OFF!!!) > > >should eliminate blockages and unclog the sock to > some degree. Don't go > > >nuts with the air pressure ! > > > > > >While not "original", an electric fuel pump is a > wonderful addition to > > any > > >car.. I have one in my 300G convert, and it makes > starting the car a > > snap, > > >especially after it has been sitting for weeks or > months. It probably > > saves > > >a lot of wear and tear on starter, and other > components. The car does not > > >have a regular fuel pump; it does have an in-line > fuel pressure > > regulator, > > >though ! > > > > > >Summit Racing's Fuel Pressure regulator, or some > similar item, should be > > >used with any electric fuel pump. There are many > different types, > > >adjustable > > >from 3 psi to 12 psi. Cost is as low as $34 > bucks. Check out Summit's # > > >SUM-G3131 at > > > > > > > > > <http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=search.asp&type=bysummit > > par> > > >t&searchtype=both&part=SUM-G3131 > > > > > >With regards to Mark's problem - when there is a > will, there is a way, > > you > > >should be able to get that sucker out, even if it > is somewhat mushroomed, > > >and even though the clearances are relatively > close where the rod goes > > >through the block. It certainly is an indication > that something is wrong > > > > >in > > >that the rod refuses to come out ! > > > > > >John Hertog > > >Sag Harbor NY > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months > FREE*. > > <http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail> > > > > > > > > Yahoo! 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