RE: [Chrysler300] 300H Fuel pump problem

[Mark Souders <souders@xxxx>]

Bill,
I also doubt that the rod was made too short, it worked well for two weeks,
200 miles, and just stopped working. I've checked two other pumps and all
three have the same lever and at the same angle. I don't think it is gunked
up, the inside of the engine is otherwise spotless. The oil is still clear,
of course I don't know how long the oil normally stays clean in a fresh
engine. I checked the rod travel, and it has plenty of cam push. When I
pull on the rod it has the feel of a definite stop like it may be
mushroomed, not like it's squishing against gunk. Oh, and one more thing I
noticed, the bottom end of the rod is a little rough and shows a slight
mushrooming also, feels like a slight burr on the end, as if the rod was not
hardened.

Mark


> -----Original Message-----
> From:	William Huff [SMTP:whuff@xxxx]
> Sent:	Monday, May 19, 2003 1:25 PM
> To:	Mark Souders
> Cc:	Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject:	Re: [Chrysler300] 300H Fuel pump problem
> 
> 
> >Hi Mark and Group,
> 
> 
> First of all, I seriously doubt that the push rod was made too short. To 
> the best of my knowledge, all the "B" and "RB" engines, that is to say the
> 
> 350, 361, 383, 413, 426 and 440 cid engines, all use the same fuel pump 
> push rod. I have also experienced difficulty removing them, but it has 
> always turned out to be carbon and gunk built up on the cam shaft side of 
> the rod, which jams in the hole bored in the block when you try to pull it
> 
> out. Usually, persistence will pay off, keep trying, but don't use brute 
> force, just keep pulling against the stoppage over and over again. I
> don't 
> have an engine apart, but I seem to remember that you can access that end 
> of the shaft with a small bent scraper by going through the fuel pump 
> mounting hole which can be used to clean enough of the end of the rod to 
> pull it through the hole. It may have been from the bottom with the oil 
> pan off, my data retrieval isn't what it used to be.
> 
> In my opinion, if there is really any sort of mushroom on the end, the rod
> 
> is ruined, and so is the camshaft eccentric that drives the pump rod.
> They 
> depend on a mirror finish and hardened surfaces with lots of oil to work 
> properly. It may be that the pump rod was not removed during rebuild, and
> 
> hence is gunked up. By pushing the rod inward against the cam and slowly 
> manually rolling the engine over, you can verify that there is a
> reasonable 
> stroke being applied to the fuel pump lever. Use pliers or a stick to
> hold 
> the rod, don't put your finger on the end of the rod while moving the 
> engine or you may get a surprise. :^)
> 
> Have you verified that the fuel pump is correct for the application and is
> 
> working properly? I have had 3 brand new Carter fuel pumps that didn't 
> work properly. When compared to a known good pump, they seemed to have
> the 
> wrong lever angle, so the stroke was very short. when installing the
> pump, 
> be sure to hook the lever under the rod and then compress the pump to 
> install the bolts. I think you could actually install the pump with the 
> lever to the side of the rod if you forced it.
> 
> I have a GTX that has a Holley blue electric pump mounted in the trunk and
> 
> a mechanical fuel pump for over 20 years now. It works well, we use both 
> the ,mechanical and electric pumps when drag racing, even though the car
> is 
> basically stock, there is a noticeably difference in performance without 
> the electric fuel pump as a booster. I bought a Holley regulator and 
> installed it before the carburetor, just in case. Hope this helps, good
> luck.
> 
> Bill Huff
> 
> > The root of my problem I think is a push rod that's too short in
> >this "brand new" engine. I'm unable to get the rod out without
> dismantling
> >the engine, as I believe the top of the rod may have a slight mushroom
> on
> >it. I sure would like to meet the guy who "rebuilt" this motor. Is it
> that
> >simple or is there something I'm overlooking? Will the carbs be able to
> >regulate this pressure?
> >
> >Thanks for the help,
> >Mark Souders
> >


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