Re: [Chrysler300] Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
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Re: [Chrysler300] Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort



The aluminium TorqueFlites, starting in 1962, could be held in second with the 2 button and shifted manually into drive. All the pre-62 cast iron transmissions would upshift into high all by themselves even when the 2 button was depressed. And it was always too early!! The only way I know of the raise the 2-3 shift point on one of these old boxes was to remove the tailshaft and the governor then lighten the governor weight in a lathe, not a job for amateures. Too light and the shift point was then too high. What year and type of trans were you referring too Val? LGJ


From: Val Jeffers <edward1108@xxxx>
To: "Laurence G. Johnson" <laurence_g_johnson@xxxx>, News4ge@xxxx, longrammopar@xxxx, RedwoodLse@xxxx, chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 06:38:32 -0700 (PDT)
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I don't know what torqueflite you are refering to but
mine will stay in second gear until 3rd is pushed or
the cows come home !
--- "Laurence G. Johnson"
<laurence_g_johnson@xxxx> wrote:
> If you remember, the 2-3 upshift on a cast iron
> TorqueFlite is automatic and
> can't be controlled with the push buttons. So there
> isn't much to be gained
> with manual shifting. If the car still has the
> correct trans, the 1-2
> upshift will be about 47-4900 rpm, just right for
> this torque motor. This is
> a low rpm motor especially through the stock exhaust
> manifolds and mufflers.
> I street raced one of these ram cars back in the
> early 60's and there is
> nothing to be gained by shifting 1-2 above 5000 rpm,
> the stock trans is
> pretty close. If you spin the tires badly enough to
> cause an early upshift,
> your dead anyway.
> If you still have the stock torque convertor, you'll
> find that the convertor
> has a "sweeet spot" at aroung 1200-1500 rpm on the
> launch. Hold the car on
> the starting line with the brakes and preload the
> convertor a little bit. If
> you mash it from a dead idle the convertor delivers
> a big wallop to the rear
> tires and they may break loose and spin. If you come
> up on the convertor too
> far, you will be past the torque multiplication
> range and the car will leave
> sluggishly. You can find the right rpm on the
> street. Find a secluded
> stretch of ribbed concrete road and practice a few
> blasts. When you find the
> right rpm on the convertor, the car will leap
> forward with just a hint of
> tire spin. Good luck.
>
> >From: News4ge@xxxx
> >To: longrammopar@xxxx, RedwoodLse@xxxx,
> >chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Mopar vs
> Bowtie.....Group Effort
> >Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 17:18:14 EDT
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> >
> >I think if you put it in Drive and leave the line
> from idle speed, you're
> >being a good daddy and letting your kid win.
> Remember, you're representing
> >us! Sometimes a little smoke is ok - better than
> bogging down. I would
> >suggest a few practice launches with the "1" button
> pushed, one foot on the
> >brake and one foot revving it up as much as you can
> without breaking loose
> >(trial and error). You could lose traction anyway,
> but if you're in Drive,
> >you may get an upshift when you let up on it, and
> the race is over. If you
> >start in Low you can control the shifting.
> >
> >Best of luck! Don't embarrass him too much.
> >
> >George Clineman
> >
> >
> >[Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
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