There are 14 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Paint advice
From: dan300f@xxxxxxx
2. PHOENIX 300 MEET
From: xramkroozer@xxxxxx
3. PHOENIX 300 MEET - date and schedule
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: PHOENIX 300 MEET
From: moparted <moparted_70@xxxxxxxxx>
5. Courtesy Light Lens Needed for 300-K
From: moparpjf@xxxxxxx
6. Non-Letter Car ('79) lead OT
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Single speed Torqueflite
From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
8. Paint Advice - Thank you
From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. 300 MEET IN MESA
From: xramkroozer@xxxxxx
10. Re: Paint advice
From: Russ Vaughan <Pacesetter300@xxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Single speed Torqueflite
From: Mike Apfelbeck <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. calender-2004
From: quadshop@xxxxxxxx
13. Re: Paint advice
From: "Roger Schaaf" <obiwan10@xxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Paint advice
From: Russ Vaughan <Pacesetter300@xxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 1
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 09:41:58 EST
From: dan300f@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Paint advice
Hi all:
Just to get my 2 cents worth in here, I paint the door jambs, etc., last. If
they are painted first, then when the body is sprayed, the overspray gets on
the fresh paint on these areas. If painted last, then the overspray gets on
the body which will be color sanded anyway. No use making more work for one's
self.
Dan Reitz
Northridge, CA
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 10:50:47 EST
From: xramkroozer@xxxxxx
Subject: PHOENIX 300 MEET
HELLO ALL, CAN SOMEONE GIVE ME THE DATE & LOCATION OF THE PHOENIX MEET.
THANX, STEVE ESTOK, TOMS RIVER, NJ
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 10:37:13 -0500
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: PHOENIX 300 MEET - date and schedule
Hi Steve,
The Chrysler 300 Club Inc.'s meet information is available on their web site at :
www.chrysler300clubinc.com as well as a registration form . Hope to see you there - it's a wonderful excuse to get away from winter !
John Hertog
Cold Sag Harbor NY
January 21 - January 25, 2004, Mesa, Arizona
Schedule of Events
Wednesday, January 21
Early Arrival Registrations
No-host dinner at the Organ Stop Pizza. Home of "The Mighty Wurlitzer" the largest Wurlitzer theater organ in the world, boasts over 5500 pipes and powered by four huge turbine blowers.
Thursday, January 22
Barrett-Jackson Classic Car Auction and Automobilia, Scottsdale, AZ
Open Thurs-Sun for those wanting to attend this collector car event of the year!
Afternoon Tea (for the ladies) at the Holiday Inn. An elegant afternoon of entertainment to include finger sandwiches, dainty pastries, petits fours and assorted teas for $10 inclusive entertainment to include a 'weekenders' fashion show and other treats.
Thursday Evening Welcome to a complimentary margarita party, hosted by the Holiday Inn followed by a no host (off the menu) dinner at the hotel.
Friday, January 23
8:30 a.m. Business Meeting
Barrett-Jackson Classic Car Auction All day
Friday Night 50's Food, Hop, & Auction at the Hotel. $15.00 inclusive per person, cash bar. Wear your old saddle shoes, poodle skirt, bell bottoms, leisure suit, or other vintage attire. Prize for best representation of your classic car era.
Saturday, January 24
Barrett- Jackson Classic Car Auction All Day
Chrysler 300 Club 11th Winter Meet at the Holiday Inn in Mesa
Car show 9 a.m. - 1 p.m. by PEOPLES CHOICE BALLOT
Awards 2 p.m. Show Grounds
Lunch for Car Show Attendees/exhibitors available for individual purchase in the show area
Evening Social Event: "Showboat" Dinner Theater at the Broadway Palm. Special group rate of $41 per person inclusive. We will need to guarantee the number of reservations, so sign up in advance when you pre-register at the hotel.
Sunday, January 27
Farewell breakfast 8:30 a.m. at the Hotel.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 09:10:15 -0800 (PST)
From: moparted <moparted_70@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: PHOENIX 300 MEET
wish i had time/money to travel cross county to go.
--- xramkroozer@xxxxxx wrote:
> HELLO ALL, CAN SOMEONE GIVE ME THE DATE & LOCATION
> OF THE PHOENIX MEET.
> THANX, STEVE ESTOK, TOMS RIVER, NJ
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
=====
__________________________________
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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 12:24:23 EST
From: moparpjf@xxxxxxx
Subject: Courtesy Light Lens Needed for 300-K
HI Group:
I find myself in need of a couple of those off-white lenses for the
courtesy lights in the armrests of the 300-K back seats, for my K convertible. Any
help in locating them will be appreciated. Please respond to me directly,
and not through the server.
Thanks,
Pete Fitch
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 14:40:57 -0600
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Non-Letter Car ('79) lead OT
Off Topic I'll readily admit, but I know some of you are into the
"Cordoba 300s". This came from the Studebaker news group.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Johnson" <thejohnsons@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Newsgroups: alt.autos.studebaker
Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2003 1:24 PM
Subject: OT: Interesting MoPar sighted
As I was out driving today a I happened to notice an unusual car
sitting on
a car lot. I went back and pulled in to look. It was a 1979
Chrysler 300.
I don't remember seeing one before. It looks like a Cordoba, but
has a 300
grille and trim. It appeared to be in nice shape- new white paint
with a
red leather interior (showing very little wear), power windows, AC,
360 V8
4bbl. The mileage shown was a little over 50,000 which is supposed
to be
correct. The asking price is $4,650. I checked NADA and the high
retail is
over $8,000. If anyone is interested, it is at A's Auto Mart,
Kearneysville, WV (about 70 miles from DC or Baltimore). The owner,
Sam
Daniels, is selling it for a friend. The phone number there is
304-876-1006. I'm about 10 miles from there and could do a more
complete
check if someone is really interested.
Paul Johnson
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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 10:45:23 +1300
From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Single speed Torqueflite
Hi everyone
Have a torqueflite of the '57-58 variety that drives in only one direction, backwards! The trans was rebuilt a few years back by the previous owner but the car has only done several hundred miles since. The oil is still clean. I removed the push button unit and worked the cable directly, no difference, no noises nothing when 1st, 2nd or drive is selected, but reverse clicks in nicely. The lack of forward motion happened immediately, wasn't a gradual loss.
I'm guessing (with my limited knowledge) that it's a front clutch problem?? Are there any other checks/tests I could do before pulling the trans out? Is it worth pulling the oil pan to look for "bits"?
Thanks for any help.
Owen
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 14:16:24 -0800
From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Paint Advice - Thank you
A big thank you to all of you who responded to my request for advice on
painting procedures.
I had given this project a lot of thought as I moved through the restoration
process and was quite confident I was approaching the paint the best way
possible based on what I was trying to acheive as an end result. After
talking to this experienced painter last Saturday I was second guessing
myself but after reading all of your responses, I'm sure I need to stick to
my guns and find someone who is willing to do it my way.
Just to be clear, the car was completely stripped with the exception of the
rear suspension and the front subframe. I started with a self etching primer
over the bare metal followed by an epoxy primer, followed by small amounts
of filler, followed by a high build primer surfacer, followed by a sealer.
The door jambs, trunk drip rail, and firewall as well as all of the inner
fenders, inner doors, braces, and the underside of the hood and trunk were
all painted at the same time prior to the body parts being installed. Once
the new detailed front suspension and brakes were installed, I installed the
rebuilt engine/trans before installing and aligning the fenders, hood, rad
support, doors, and trunk lid so I wouldn't run the risk of damaging the
engine compartment installing the engine later.
Once everything was aligned, I backtaped all the seams and masked the car
extensively before applying the building primer and repeatedly blocking and
priming along with a final guide coat until I was sure the car was straight.
The car has been sitting in a dry garage for about one year with a sealer
primer being the top coat. My intension is to sand the car well and apply
another coat of sealer/surfacer and sanding that prior to applying the
paint.
With carefull backtaping, I've found that very little overspray gets in to
the jambs so I'm confident I won't have any major problems keeping the jambs
and under hood clean. My only real concern is that all of the dust inside
the car doesn't become a problem and that the reassembly of the car doesn't
cause any noticeable damage.
Sorry to be so long winded!
300ly, Ryan Hill '65 300's
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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 18:25:07 EST
From: xramkroozer@xxxxxx
Subject: 300 MEET IN MESA
THANKING EVERYONE FOR THE INFO ON THE 300 MEET IN MESA. THERE IS ALSO A CAR
SHOW IN TUBAC THE 25 TH, ABOUT 2 HRS SOUTH OF MESA. IT'S A GREAT SHOW ABOUT 250
CARS. SEE YOU ALL IN MESA. STEVE ESTOK, TOMS RIVER, NJ
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 16:42:48 -0800 (PST)
From: Russ Vaughan <Pacesetter300@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Paint advice
Hi,
Most bodymen I know use 3M D.A.R.T tape. Round foam tape 1/2" or 3/4" diameter that covers the gaps and keeps the jambs clean and leaves no tape line. Whatever works I guess, but I've never seen a vehicle's jambs painted last. How would you paint the parts you can't get at like inner fenders, under hinges, etc? Also, since at least 80% of the cars painted today are two stage( base coat - clear coat) and you don't color sand two stage, they would have to jamb first. I would think people just don't change their methods when doing an occasional single stage paint job.
Just another point of view
Russ Vaughan
dan300f@xxxxxxx wrote:
Hi all:
Just to get my 2 cents worth in here, I paint the door jambs, etc., last. If
they are painted first, then when the body is sprayed, the overspray gets on
the fresh paint on these areas. If painted last, then the overspray gets on
the body which will be color sanded anyway. No use making more work for one's
self.
Dan Reitz
Northridge, CA
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
To send a message to this group, send an email to:
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For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 17:37:53 -0800
From: Mike Apfelbeck <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Single speed Torqueflite
Sure, take the oil pan off and remove the valve body(it's broken anyway,
isn't it ?) and look for pieces. With the valve body off you can see the
various holes in the case where the fluid pressure is applied.You can use a
rubber tipped blow gun to put air in the holes to find obvious leaks and to
see if the bands and clutches seem to be working.
Mike
At 10:45 AM 12/17/2003 +1300, Owen & Jo Grigg wrote:
>Hi everyone
>
>Have a torqueflite of the '57-58 variety that drives in only one
>direction, backwards! The trans was rebuilt a few years back by the
>previous owner but the car has only done several hundred miles since. The
>oil is still clean. I removed the push button unit and worked the cable
>directly, no difference, no noises nothing when 1st, 2nd or drive is
>selected, but reverse clicks in nicely. The lack of forward motion
>happened immediately, wasn't a gradual loss.
>
>I'm guessing (with my limited knowledge) that it's a front clutch
>problem?? Are there any other checks/tests I could do before pulling the
>trans out? Is it worth pulling the oil pan to look for "bits"?
>
>Thanks for any help.
>
>Owen
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 20:22:10 -0600
From: quadshop@xxxxxxxx
Subject: calender-2004
Hey all,
Go to your NAPA dealer and ask for the 2004 Classic collector's edition
calender.
Hidden inside is a "Beautiful Brute" C300. Those of you that are
frustrated go to June. It is a red one from the Wells Auto Museum.
Enjoy,
Jim McGowan
95 "WAGON SS"
92 "WAGON SS, jr."
Herd # 582
62 Chrysler 300 Sport
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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 02:54:24 -0800
From: "Roger Schaaf" <obiwan10@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Paint advice
Some folks color sand their 2 stage paint. Apparently Mercedes and BMW do
not. This is probably why their paint jobs look so crummy, as do most new
car finishes, I do give Jaguar and Lexus somewhat a pass on this as they
apparently do a fairly good job without color sanding or possibly they do
some before shipping the cars to us. There are more bumps and
valleys(orange peel) then in the Rockies. Most new car finishes look like we
used to say about Platte River back in Nebraska where I am from. A mile
wide and an inch deep.
If you are doing a darker color(red, black(especially black), blue, green
like the 57's) I would suggest color sanding or the finish may be shiny but
that is about all. In very strong fact I would have any excellent quality
paint job color sanded thoroughly.
Will be the difference between a Miracle job and a job that you will do you
and your painter proud.
I purchased a kit sometime back(about 2 or 3 hundred dollars) that included
a high quality air powered dual action palm held sander and sanding disks
from 1000 to 3000 grit. I would recommend such a tool as a tremendous aid
to a nice finish.
Roger Schaaf
300 B Calif
----- Original Message -----
From: "Russ Vaughan" <Pacesetter300@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <dan300f@xxxxxxx>; <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2003 4:42 PM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Paint advice
> Hi,
>
> Most bodymen I know use 3M D.A.R.T tape. Round foam tape 1/2" or 3/4"
diameter that covers the gaps and keeps the jambs clean and leaves no tape
line. Whatever works I guess, but I've never seen a vehicle's jambs painted
last. How would you paint the parts you can't get at like inner fenders,
under hinges, etc? Also, since at least 80% of the cars painted today are
two stage( base coat - clear coat) and you don't color sand two stage, they
would have to jamb first. I would think people just don't change their
methods when doing an occasional single stage paint job.
>
> Just another point of view
>
> Russ Vaughan
>
>
>
> dan300f@xxxxxxx wrote:
> Hi all:
>
> Just to get my 2 cents worth in here, I paint the door jambs, etc., last.
If
> they are painted first, then when the body is sprayed, the overspray gets
on
> the fresh paint on these areas. If painted last, then the overspray gets
on
> the body which will be color sanded anyway. No use making more work for
one's
> self.
>
> Dan Reitz
> Northridge, CA
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
>
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>
>
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>
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>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 05:37:42 -0800 (PST)
From: Russ Vaughan <Pacesetter300@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Paint advice
Hi Roger,
Reading your post, it seems like we have different definitions of "color sanding" . The basecoat on a 2-stage dries to a matte finish. any gloss comes from the clearcoat.
I guess if you make a big mistake and get orange peel or a run in the basecoat, you would have to sand it down, but then, unless you were extremely lucky, you would need to reapply with more base. The proper thickness of the color coat on a 2 stage is 1.0 mil or less. That's not a lot of base to sand compared to the 2.5 mil or so on a single stage. To sand the body, you need to pull the car out of the spray booth, which invites dust and dirt everywhere else. The tech manual for the paint I use recommends "clearcoat (base) as soon as possible - after proper flash off (about 10 minutes) - to minimize dirt and other substances landing on basecoat" . In my experience, the "bumps and valleys" come from the clear coat, not the base.. Clear goes on to a thickness of 2.5 mils or so and that you DO sand. Sanding a clearcoat is not considered "color sanding", at least in my circles.
You can get quite a finish with a quality finish sander like Dynabrade or National Detroit. I have seen Mirka Abralon (2000 and 4000) bring up a spectacular finish using one of those sanders - on clear.
Roger Schaaf <obiwan10@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Some folks color sand their 2 stage paint. Apparently Mercedes and BMW do
not. This is probably why their paint jobs look so crummy, as do most new
car finishes, I do give Jaguar and Lexus somewhat a pass on this as they
apparently do a fairly good job without color sanding or possibly they do
some before shipping the cars to us. There are more bumps and
valleys(orange peel) then in the Rockies. Most new car finishes look like we
used to say about Platte River back in Nebraska where I am from. A mile
wide and an inch deep.
None of the manufacturers that I know of sand their paint jobs, unless there is a flaw, then only the flaw is addressed.
If you are doing a darker color(red, black(especially black), blue, green
like the 57's) I would suggest color sanding or the finish may be shiny but
that is about all. In very strong fact I would have any excellent quality
paint job color sanded thoroughly.
I assume you are talking about single stage paint, not two stage.
Will be the difference between a Miracle job and a job that you will do you
and your painter proud.
I purchased a kit sometime back(about 2 or 3 hundred dollars) that included
a high quality air powered dual action palm held sander and sanding disks
from 1000 to 3000 grit. I would recommend such a tool as a tremendous aid
to a nice finish.
Roger Schaaf
300 B Calif
----- Original Message -----
From: "Russ Vaughan"
To: ;
Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2003 4:42 PM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Paint advice
> Hi,
>
> Most bodymen I know use 3M D.A.R.T tape. Round foam tape 1/2" or 3/4"
diameter that covers the gaps and keeps the jambs clean and leaves no tape
line. Whatever works I guess, but I've never seen a vehicle's jambs painted
last. How would you paint the parts you can't get at like inner fenders,
under hinges, etc? Also, since at least 80% of the cars painted today are
two stage( base coat - clear coat) and you don't color sand two stage, they
would have to jamb first. I would think people just don't change their
methods when doing an occasional single stage paint job.
>
> Just another point of view
>
> Russ Vaughan
>
>
>
> dan300f@xxxxxxx wrote:
> Hi all:
>
> Just to get my 2 cents worth in here, I paint the door jambs, etc., last.
If
> they are painted first, then when the body is sprayed, the overspray gets
on
> the fresh paint on these areas. If painted last, then the overspray gets
on
> the body which will be color sanded anyway. No use making more work for
one's
> self.
>
> Dan Reitz
> Northridge, CA
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENT
>
>
> ---------------------------------
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>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
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>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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>
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>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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