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There are 6 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. RE: 300H Fuel problem - answer
From: Mark Souders <souders@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. RE: '64 Brake MC/Booster Question
From: john_nowosacki@xxxxxxxxxxx
3. RE: '64 Brake MC/Booster Question
From: Mark Souders <souders@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: '64 Brake MC/Booster Question
From: "Terry Town" <terrytown@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Fuel Pump Rod
From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: 300H Fuel problem - answer
From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 07:19:33 -0400
From: Mark Souders <souders@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: 300H Fuel problem - answer
Good Morning Group,
I managed to get the push rod out last night without much difficulty. I
used a wood chisel to pry it out. After a small burr cleared the hole, it
came right out. It was worn down by about 1/4 inch from the top of the rod.
I pulled a valve cover and found out why the rod was worn. There was no oil
on top of the engine. This explains the lifter chatter, too. I pulled the
rods and lifters and there is no visible signs of excessive wear, as a
matter of fact, there are no signs of any wear except on that push rod. So
in addition to needing a pump push rod, looks like I'm gonna need a new oil
pump too. I'm going to check the Rockwell on the push rod, does anyone know
what the spec is for hardness of the rod?
Thanks for all the advice and tips,
Mark Souders
> -----Original Message-----
> From: elmer tuuri [SMTP:eltuuri@xxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2003 10:20 PM
> To: crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx; Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 300H Fuel problem - answer
>
> Does a worn pushrod make noise [knock]? We diagnosed with a stethescope a
> noise coming from
> fuel pump-- no noticeable loss of power. I had a 55 ford once [in late
> 50's]
> Seemed to be same
> problem-- changed pump- noise gone. Ordered new pump. Should check pushrod
>
> too I guess
> 78 NY -400
> Elmer Tuuri
>
>
>
> >From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> >To: Doug Warrener <dwarrener@xxxxxxxxxxxx>, Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >Subject: [Chrysler300] 300H Fuel problem - answer
> >Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 16:21:11 -0400
> >
> >To all, re fuel pump problems:
> >
> >It is not tremendously hard to hook up a fuel pressure gauge,
> temporarily,
> >in-line, and drive the car while observing the gauge. Loss of pressure at
> >higher RPM's under load will certainly pinpoint the problem to a fuel
> >starvation issue, and save lots of diagnostics time. Other starvation
> >causes
> >can be a clogged fuel sock in the tank pickup, as well as rusty lines, or
> >(let's not overlook the obvious) a clogged filter ! Blowing some
> compressed
> >air back into the fuel line BEFORE the fuel pump (WITH GAS CAP OFF!!!)
> >should eliminate blockages and unclog the sock to some degree. Don't go
> >nuts with the air pressure !
> >
> >While not "original", an electric fuel pump is a wonderful addition to
> any
> >car.. I have one in my 300G convert, and it makes starting the car a
> snap,
> >especially after it has been sitting for weeks or months. It probably
> saves
> >a lot of wear and tear on starter, and other components. The car does not
> >have a regular fuel pump; it does have an in-line fuel pressure
> regulator,
> >though !
> >
> >Summit Racing's Fuel Pressure regulator, or some similar item, should be
> >used with any electric fuel pump. There are many different types,
> >adjustable
> >from 3 psi to 12 psi. Cost is as low as $34 bucks. Check out Summit's #
> >SUM-G3131 at
> >
> >
> <http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=search.asp&type=bysummit
> par>
> >t&searchtype=both&part=SUM-G3131
> >
> >With regards to Mark's problem - when there is a will, there is a way,
> you
> >should be able to get that sucker out, even if it is somewhat mushroomed,
> >and even though the clearances are relatively close where the rod goes
> >through the block. It certainly is an indication that something is wrong
>
> >in
> >that the rod refuses to come out !
> >
> >John Hertog
> >Sag Harbor NY
> >
>
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 05:06:16 -0600
From: john_nowosacki@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: '64 Brake MC/Booster Question
Just taking a wild guess on the master cylinder issue, but I think it might have to do with versions of the master that could (or used to) have a hydraulic brake light switch mounted on the front of the cylinder, and a brake line coming out from the bottom (like '57). If that unit is then rebuilt after being taken in as a core, and remanufactured as a later model for use on cars that have mechanical switches mounted on the brake pedal, one of the holes must be plugged.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly Pierce [mailto:jkrestor300@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2003 10:57 PM
To: 300 List Posts; Terry Town
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] '64 Brake MC/Booster Question
Terry and Group-
This one got my curiosity up so I just went out and looked at the 5 64
Chryslers I have here at home.
K hardtop, build date 9/12/63 Midland Ross unit, no plug on M/C 413 engine
300 sport 4 dr. parts car-2/13/64 Same, has plug on bottom of M/C 383
2barrel Newport/300"one of
none" wagon- Midland Ross, no plug 361 2 barrel(for now)
300 Sport 2drht. Same, has plug on bottom of M/C 383 2 barrel
K hardtop, Kelsey Hayes unit, no plug 413 engine
Now- the Service Technical Manual doesn't even list a Kelsey Hayes unit! I
have owned the car since 1982, never changed the booster, looks to be
original. None of the photos in the manual show a master cylinder with the
"extra" plug like 2 of mine have. Neither one of the K's are ram cars, so
the remote booster does not come into the equation.
It doesn't appear that there is any real pattern here that I can see.
Any one out there got a answer for Terry? It would appear that all my
investigation has done is muddied the waters! The factory parts manual
lists ONE booster for the 64 Dodge 880, Newports, 300 & 300K non ram and the
New Yorker-2525428. The master cylinder shows the same part number for ALL
64 Chrysler products with power brakes (except ram K) 2275519.
Joe Pierce 300J+Kx3+M+ others.....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Town" <terrytown@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "300 List Posts" <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2003 2:44 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] '64 Brake MC/Booster Question
> I'm confused and hoping someone can help me out. I have a '64 300 Sport
with a 383 and power brakes. I need a new brake master cylinder, so the
local NAPA sells me one. NAPA part # 10-36706, it looks very similar to the
existing one, but has an additional downward pointing outlet just under the
regular horizontally pointing outlet. The second outlet is capped off with a
plug, so I figure that the unit will still work fine. When I got the old
master cylinder off I compared the two. The NAPA one has a casting number on
the bottom of the unit of 2265634. My old one has a casting # of 2265633.
Hmmmm. I then noticed that the receptacle depths for the pushrod in the back
of the MC piston are different between the two MCs. The NAPA one is about
.95" deep and my old one is 1.25" deep. I thought that maybe it's as simple
as adjusting my pushrod shorter, so it doesn't stick out as much from the
power booster unit. I looked in the factory service manual for adjustment
info and here is where I got really confused. My power booster visually
appears to be a Bendix Dual Diaphragm type, and the FSM clearly states that
these are for Imperials only. (It also says to NOT adjust the pushrod)
>
> Did 300 Sports come with the Bendix dual diaphragm unit? If so, does
anybody know a NAPA part # for the proper MC to use with this booster unit?
Or do I need to just adjust the pushrod in about .3"?
>
> If the booster unit isn't the proper one for the car, I'd like to replace
it with the proper one. Any thoughts on where these might be available, part
numbers (NAPA or otherwise) to ask for, etc.
>
> Any help from the group would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Terry Lynch
> St. Petersburg, FL
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
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>
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>
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 07:54:46 -0400
From: Mark Souders <souders@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: '64 Brake MC/Booster Question
I just went through this very problem last week. The guy at National Auto
Parts said that this same master cylinder is listed for later cars with a
dual system. They are not, however, listed for cars with dual chamber
master cylinders, I think after 1966, Mopars had the dual master cylinder. A
simple pipe plug in the bottom hole is the fix. Also, don't bench prime the
master cylinder since the plunger can be damaged if the piston is pushed too
far into the cylinder. I rigged up a piece of scrap metal line to
recirculate the fluid and primed it after it was installed on the booster. I
still have a low pedal, the book says don't adjust the rod?
Mark Souders
> -----Original Message-----
> From: john_nowosacki@xxxxxxxxxxx [SMTP:john_nowosacki@xxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2003 7:06 AM
> To: jkrestor300@xxxxxxxxxxxx; Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx;
> terrytown@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] '64 Brake MC/Booster Question
>
> Just taking a wild guess on the master cylinder issue, but I think it
> might have to do with versions of the master that could (or used to) have
> a hydraulic brake light switch mounted on the front of the cylinder, and a
> brake line coming out from the bottom (like '57). If that unit is then
> rebuilt after being taken in as a core, and remanufactured as a later
> model for use on cars that have mechanical switches mounted on the brake
> pedal, one of the holes must be plugged.
> John
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kelly Pierce [mailto:jkrestor300@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2003 10:57 PM
> To: 300 List Posts; Terry Town
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] '64 Brake MC/Booster Question
>
>
> Terry and Group-
> This one got my curiosity up so I just went out and looked at the 5 64
> Chryslers I have here at home.
> K hardtop, build date 9/12/63 Midland Ross unit, no plug on M/C 413
> engine
> 300 sport 4 dr. parts car-2/13/64 Same, has plug on bottom of M/C 383
> 2barrel Newport/300"one of
> none" wagon- Midland Ross, no plug 361 2 barrel(for now)
> 300 Sport 2drht. Same, has plug on bottom of M/C 383 2 barrel
> K hardtop, Kelsey Hayes unit, no plug 413 engine
> Now- the Service Technical Manual doesn't even list a Kelsey Hayes unit! I
> have owned the car since 1982, never changed the booster, looks to be
> original. None of the photos in the manual show a master cylinder with the
> "extra" plug like 2 of mine have. Neither one of the K's are ram cars, so
> the remote booster does not come into the equation.
> It doesn't appear that there is any real pattern here that I can see.
> Any one out there got a answer for Terry? It would appear that all my
> investigation has done is muddied the waters! The factory parts manual
> lists ONE booster for the 64 Dodge 880, Newports, 300 & 300K non ram and
> the
> New Yorker-2525428. The master cylinder shows the same part number for
> ALL
> 64 Chrysler products with power brakes (except ram K) 2275519.
> Joe Pierce 300J+Kx3+M+ others.....
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Terry Town" <terrytown@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: "300 List Posts" <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2003 2:44 PM
> Subject: [Chrysler300] '64 Brake MC/Booster Question
>
>
> > I'm confused and hoping someone can help me out. I have a '64 300 Sport
> with a 383 and power brakes. I need a new brake master cylinder, so the
> local NAPA sells me one. NAPA part # 10-36706, it looks very similar to
> the
> existing one, but has an additional downward pointing outlet just under
> the
> regular horizontally pointing outlet. The second outlet is capped off with
> a
> plug, so I figure that the unit will still work fine. When I got the old
> master cylinder off I compared the two. The NAPA one has a casting number
> on
> the bottom of the unit of 2265634. My old one has a casting # of 2265633.
> Hmmmm. I then noticed that the receptacle depths for the pushrod in the
> back
> of the MC piston are different between the two MCs. The NAPA one is about
> .95" deep and my old one is 1.25" deep. I thought that maybe it's as
> simple
> as adjusting my pushrod shorter, so it doesn't stick out as much from the
> power booster unit. I looked in the factory service manual for adjustment
> info and here is where I got really confused. My power booster visually
> appears to be a Bendix Dual Diaphragm type, and the FSM clearly states
> that
> these are for Imperials only. (It also says to NOT adjust the pushrod)
> >
> > Did 300 Sports come with the Bendix dual diaphragm unit? If so, does
> anybody know a NAPA part # for the proper MC to use with this booster
> unit?
> Or do I need to just adjust the pushrod in about .3"?
> >
> > If the booster unit isn't the proper one for the car, I'd like to
> replace
> it with the proper one. Any thoughts on where these might be available,
> part
> numbers (NAPA or otherwise) to ask for, etc.
> >
> > Any help from the group would be appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Terry Lynch
> > St. Petersburg, FL
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> > Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> > For list server instructions, go to
> <http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm>
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> >
> >
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> <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 16:20:09 -0400
From: "Terry Town" <terrytown@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: '64 Brake MC/Booster Question
That's what has me confused... my car has the Bendix with the Dual diaphragm
booster... the two halves are crimped together, not screwed like the Bendix
single diaphragm unit.
Terry
----- Original Message -----
From: <MPLindahl@xxxxxxx>
To: <terrytown@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2003 5:02 PM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] '64 Brake MC/Booster Question
> Terry,
>
> I think the '64 came with either a Bendix or
> Midland-Ross unit.
>
> The Midland-Ross has the band around it
> and the Bendix uses screws.
>
> Mark Lindahl
> '63 300 Conv.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 18:59:48 -0700
From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump Rod
The correct length of the fuel pump rod is 3.200" Gary Barker
Mwl1967@xxxxxxx wrote:
> Does anyone have the part # for the big block fuel pump rod? How about the
> correct length of an unworn one that we can keep for reference when needed?
>
> 300ly
> Mike Laiserin
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 19:08:44 -0700
From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300H Fuel problem - answer
You can also get a kock if the spring on the pump is getting weak. Gary Barker
elmer tuuri wrote:
> Does a worn pushrod make noise [knock]? We diagnosed with a stethescope a
> noise coming from
> fuel pump-- no noticeable loss of power. I had a 55 ford once [in late 50's]
> Seemed to be same
> problem-- changed pump- noise gone. Ordered new pump. Should check pushrod
> too I guess
> 78 NY -400
> Elmer Tuuri
>
> >From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> >To: Doug Warrener <dwarrener@xxxxxxxxxxxx>, Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >Subject: [Chrysler300] 300H Fuel problem - answer
> >Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 16:21:11 -0400
> >
> >To all, re fuel pump problems:
> >
> >It is not tremendously hard to hook up a fuel pressure gauge, temporarily,
> >in-line, and drive the car while observing the gauge. Loss of pressure at
> >higher RPM's under load will certainly pinpoint the problem to a fuel
> >starvation issue, and save lots of diagnostics time. Other starvation
> >causes
> >can be a clogged fuel sock in the tank pickup, as well as rusty lines, or
> >(let's not overlook the obvious) a clogged filter ! Blowing some compressed
> >air back into the fuel line BEFORE the fuel pump (WITH GAS CAP OFF!!!)
> >should eliminate blockages and unclog the sock to some degree. Don't go
> >nuts with the air pressure !
> >
> >While not "original", an electric fuel pump is a wonderful addition to any
> >car.. I have one in my 300G convert, and it makes starting the car a snap,
> >especially after it has been sitting for weeks or months. It probably saves
> >a lot of wear and tear on starter, and other components. The car does not
> >have a regular fuel pump; it does have an in-line fuel pressure regulator,
> >though !
> >
> >Summit Racing's Fuel Pressure regulator, or some similar item, should be
> >used with any electric fuel pump. There are many different types,
> >adjustable
> >from 3 psi to 12 psi. Cost is as low as $34 bucks. Check out Summit's #
> >SUM-G3131 at
> >
> >http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=search.asp&type=bysummitpar
> >t&searchtype=both&part=SUM-G3131
> >
> >With regards to Mark's problem - when there is a will, there is a way, you
> >should be able to get that sucker out, even if it is somewhat mushroomed,
> >and even though the clearances are relatively close where the rod goes
> >through the block. It certainly is an indication that something is wrong
> >in
> >that the rod refuses to come out !
> >
> >John Hertog
> >Sag Harbor NY
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
> http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail
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>
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________________________________________________________________________
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