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There are 6 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: radiator caps
From: BKWare@xxxxxxx
2. Re: radiator caps
From: Mike Apfelbeck <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. 300H Windshield Replacement
From: Doug Warrener <dwarrener@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. 300H Windshield Replacement - answer
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. 300 C
From: "Rusty and Thelma Roe" <saxblowr@xxxxxxxx>
6. Re: radiator caps
From: mr-320@xxxxxxxxx
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Message: 1
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 07:31:32 EDT
From: BKWare@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: radiator caps
You want the pressure and don't get me started on nucleate boiling around
cylinder wall surfaces. Also don't confuse pressure drop across the pump
or
thermostat with the static pressure rating of the cap. Mass flow and heat
transfer are dynamic variables in an automotive application and what works
in
one application does not necessarily work in all instances.
Here we go.
Brian
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2002 08:37:43 -0700
From: Mike Apfelbeck <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: radiator caps
Higher pressures will not affect the amount of flow in a closed cooling
system, water does not compress under more pressure, it flows the same.
However,hot water/coolant mix will be less likely to boil as it is pulled
into the water pump if it is under pressure. Also, any air bubbles in the
system would be smaller under more pressure and less likely to affect
things.
Straight water has been proven to transmit heat better than a coolant
mixture, but the realities of needing corrosion resistance, waterpump
lubrication and todays higher operating temperatures make it impractical.
The only reason I ever put a lower rated pressure cap on was to get by
with
an older radiator, that was getting weak, until I could afford a
replacement.
At 12:06 AM 9/3/2002 -0400, PaddyCaddy . wrote:
>Alas, it seems we have another wee disagreement among friends...
>
>If I am not mistaken, higher pressure also impedes the flow volume of
>coolant. If your car was filled with nothing but tap water like in the
old
>days, boiling would indeed be the primary fear. But with modern coolant
>mixtures, it is not.
>
>Getting the maximum amount of coolant into and out of the engine is what
>you're really after when idling in 100 degree heat with the AC blasting.
>This is exactly why your car has an idle speed up system for when
>temperatures approach dangerous levels.
>
>Pressure (which remains fairly constant) is not what gets your engine
>temperature back down to safe levels. This is accomplished by increased
>rpms in the water pump churning a greater volume of coolant through the
>system.
>
>My opinion is that changing - say - a 12 pound cap to a 9 pound cap
>increases flow. I got this advice from an old timer who runs an auto
repair
>shop called - aptly enough - "John's Radiator." He had recharged my
>Cadillac with Freon and built me a new radiator. WHen I started having
>frequent heat problems, he gave me the lower pressure cap.
>
>While my 276 Hemi that was recently rebuilt for the 300 is problem free
in
>the overheating category (no carbon blocking coolant passages, new water
>pump, no AC on the car), my 200,000 mile plus 472 V8 Caddy has benefitted
>from me lowering the pressure on the cap. I've also heard this "trick"
from
>others in the industry.
>
>Having a "puke tank" is a must for this to work of course, as it will be
>utilized more with a lower pressure cap. But that is what it is for,
after
>all.. It keeps the lower pressure fairly constant and maintains the
better
>flow - then takes the overflow coolant back into the system as the
>temperature cools.
>
>Sean.
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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 13:56:57 -0700
From: Doug Warrener <dwarrener@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300H Windshield Replacement
I have a replacement windshield from a 62 newport for my H. Any
suggestions
for a source for the new rubber windshield moulding? I am going to have it
professionally installed. Is there anything else that I might need? Doug
W.
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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2002 17:04:02 -0400
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300H Windshield Replacement - answer
Hi Doug,
Speaking from experience, do NOT go with a new (repro) rubber gasket.
Re-use the original. If that is damaged in some way, replace it with a
good
used original gasket. Someone like Murray Park ( mbpark@xxxxxxxxxx)
should
be able to furnish a good supple one at a reasonable price. And it WILL
fit - unlike reproductions, that do NOT FIT .
The only other thing you might need are the metal clips that hold the
outer,
top stainless in place, over the gasket. If your car is a West Coast,
dry
car, they will probably be OK. If your car is an East Coast car, they
will
probably be rotted out. There are no repro sources for these, only what's
out there in Arizona junkyards.
I did stock up on last trip to AZ - e-mail me directly if you need some.
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Warrener" <dwarrener@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> I have a replacement windshield from a 62 newport for my H. Any
suggestions
> for a source for the new rubber windshield moulding? I am going to have
it
> professionally installed. Is there anything else that I might need?
Doug
W.
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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 16:34:58 -0700 (Pacific Daylight Time)
From: "Rusty and Thelma Roe" <saxblowr@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300 C
I need a drivers side wheel stud and lugnut (Left hand threads) and the
clamp that holds the jack in the trunk for my 57 300C....thanks Rusty in
Oregon
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 01:27:08 -0700 (MST)
From: mr-320@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: radiator caps
paddy caddy is 100% correct in this dissertation......
JEFF
tucson az.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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