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There are 9 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re:300C Power Brakes or any car with bellows type booster
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: 300C Power Brakes
From: Lindsey Fiuller <lfuller@xxxxxxx>
3. C300 for sale
From: "Jerry Browarski" <mopar-man@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. forwarding
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: voltage reducer
From: "Park Waldrop" <pwald@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: voltage reducer
From: paul holmgren <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. 61-383
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
8. Very Low Mileage '71 300
From: "Rick Tibben"<tibbmopar@xxxxxxxxxx>
9. '69 300 stalling out
From: "Rick Tibben"<tibbmopar@xxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 06:52:44 -0500
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re:300C Power Brakes or any car with bellows type booster
Either have someone sit in the car and depress the brake pedal or
cut a 2x4 to hold the pedal down for you. This will collapse the
bellows and give you much greater access to the master cylinder.
Simple, really.
Wayne
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 16:19:04 -0400
From: "Ed/Jan Hermes" <ehermes@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300C Power Brakes
Thanks to all that responded with possible cures for power brake
"shuddering". I received several messages from people that are
experiencing the same problem that requested sharing with the rest
of the Club.
Here's a summary:
- A common characteristic for cars that are not driven daily.
- Air in the system, bleed brake lines.
- Blowback into the master cylinder.
- Bad wheel bearing or tie rod ends.
- Linkage needs to be adjusted.
- Most often suggested remedy...check brake fluid level !!!
Now I need someone to tell me how to get to the master cylinder to
check the level. Seems like it would take a contortionist to get to
the cap which, of course, is located under the booster
"accordion"....how the hell do you get to it ???
Thanks again,
Ed Hermes
Cincinnati
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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 15:08:27 -0500
From: Lindsey Fiuller <lfuller@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300C Power Brakes
Ed/Jan Hermes wrote:
>Thanks to all that responded with possible cures for power brake
"shuddering". I received several messages from people that are
experiencing the same problem that requested sharing with the rest of the
Club.
>
>Here's a summary:
>
>- A common characteristic for cars that are not driven daily.
>- Air in the system, bleed brake lines.
>- Blowback into the master cylinder.
>- Bad wheel bearing or tie rod ends.
>- Linkage needs to be adjusted.
>- Most often suggested remedy...check brake fluid level !!!
>
>Now I need someone to tell me how to get to the master cylinder to check
the level. Seems like it would take a contortionist to get to the cap
which, of course, is located under the booster "accordion"....how the hell
do you get to it ???
>
>Thanks again,
>Ed Hermes
>Cincinnati
>
>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
>
Another possibility is that a brake drum may be out of round. these are
old parts-had one like that, replaced it, & no shudder.
Lindsey Fuller
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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 18:15:37 -0400
From: "Jerry Browarski" <mopar-man@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: C300 for sale
I really didn't want to do this but some other priorities have come up and
I need to sell my C300. Additionally, my schedule has been really bad the
last couple of years and I don't feel that sitting around is doing the car
any good. What I'm going to do is first tell about everything that it
needs to be done then I'll list off all the things that have been done to
it.
Needs to be done: Extreme lower right rear quarter has some bubbles but
the rest of the car is solid. Entire car could use a new paint job. Most
of the chrome needs to be redone including the wire wheels. The
windshield has something on it from the shop where I had a dent in the
right rear fender fixed. Haven't had the time to take it back due to my
weird schedule and they're not open on Saturdays. The window on the
passenger side door has a crack in it. The master power window switch
needs to be cleaned/rebuilt. The temp and fuel gauges are inaccurate.
The radio doesn't work. One of the air cleaners has a dent. It has a
noisy u-joint.
Iffy stuff: The interior is not the original tan colors however the
stitch patterns in the seats are like original so the car may have been
ordered that way. I'm not sure. The interior is red, white, and black.
Also, the block isn't original (it's from an Imperial) but there is
evidence that the first owner from California used to race the car and
probably blew the original engine. It is, however, built to 300 specs.
I'm the third owner. The second owner never drove it. The car has been
converted to 12 volts which may explain why the two gauges don't work
properly. It was that way when I bought it. One of the horns doesn't
function.
What's been done, front to rear: Had the radiator checked. It's in good
shape. Recent rebuilds and replacements: water pump, complete engine,
carbs, starter, brakes, brake cylinders, master brake cylinder, power
brake booster, power steering pump, brake lines/hoses, transmission,
starter, ring gear, speedometer. So except for the u-joint, the car is in
excellent mechanical shape. It also has radial WWWs with about 7,500
miles on them, mostly highway driving which includes two trips to SW
Florida from Detroit. The trans, starter, ring gear, and speedo work was
all done very recently..... like within the last 100 miles. The engine
has around 3,000 miles since the rebuild. Not real sure about this but I
think I also had the exhaust system replaced since I bought it. I'll have
to check.
I have close to $25,000 invested in the car including my purchase price.
I'm asking for $19,500. If anyone is interested and would like to see
pics, let me know what you want to see and I'll take the pics with my
digital camera and email them to you.
Jerry Browarski
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 19:36:59 -0400
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: forwarding
Forwarding on behalf of Jim. Please contact him, not me, if interested.
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim McMullan" <macthehammer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>
> John. Please forward to list. Came across something called -Vol.ta.drop-
> model 12-6pm its a voltage reducer rated at 6 amps.Someone whit a C or
similar
> could use it to power their dash gages or raido.Its new in a box a has a
price
> tag from monument car parts marker $27.34 If a club member wants it,
make
> me a offer.Dont know how old it is my son found it in the basement of a
house he
> was renting. Jim McMullan 300 F
>
> ---
>
> --- macthehammer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 19:54:34 -0400
From: "Park Waldrop" <pwald@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: voltage reducer
All,
This thing is merely a heavy duty 1 ohm wire-wound resistor. What many
vendors of such simple devices don't say is that it will only reduce by
6v.
if there is a current of 6a. flowing through it. That current is fairly
typical of some 6v radios, but most dash instruments don't draw nearly
that
much, thus the resistor wouldn't reduce the supply voltage much, and the
instruments would be fed too much voltage. A decent solution for dash
instruments that are fed through a voltage reducer is one available at
NAPA
for about $15 (NAPA/Echlin IR-2). It actually does supply a somewhat
regulated lower voltage output. I'm using one on my '51 Hudson converted
to
12v.
Park Waldrop
Atlanta
C cpe
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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 19:18:15 -0500
From: paul holmgren <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: voltage reducer
Park Waldrop wrote:
>
> All,
>
> This thing is merely a heavy duty 1 ohm wire-wound resistor. What many
> vendors of such simple devices don't say is that it will only reduce by
6v.
> if there is a current of 6a. flowing through it. That current is fairly
> typical of some 6v radios, but most dash instruments don't draw nearly
that
> much, thus the resistor wouldn't reduce the supply voltage much, and the
> instruments would be fed too much voltage. A decent solution for dash
> instruments that are fed through a voltage reducer is one available at
NAPA
> for about $15 (NAPA/Echlin IR-2). It actually does supply a somewhat
> regulated lower voltage output. I'm using one on my '51 Hudson
converted to
> 12v.
>
> Park Waldrop
> Atlanta
> C cpe
If the device mentioned above is actually just a resister, then the
following comments Park has made hold true to the teachings I have had
over many years of working in electronics/electricity.
--
Paul Holmgren
Hoosier Corps #33, L-6
2 57 300-C's in Indy
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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 21:12:45 -0700
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
Subject: 61-383
Hi All,
I have a 61 383 engine that I would like to get rid of. It turns over
easily and would probably run, but it has very heavy sludge build-up in
it. It's a 2 barrel engine and has never been apart, as evidenced by the
sound deadening still under the intake. I want $100 for it, and I will
part it out and scrap the block if no-one wants it in one week. Email me
privately if interested.
300ly,
Don
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 20:48:59 -0800 (PST)
From: "Rick Tibben"<tibbmopar@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Very Low Mileage '71 300
Greetings,
I just came across a local '71 Chrysler 300 for sale. It has 28, 844
original
miles on it. It looks nearly new. It is dark green with a white vinyl
top.
The interior looked sort of brown. This is a 440 engine vehicle with
4-doors.
Everything works. It has new tires. The asking price is $5000. Contact
Bob
at (805) 929-8278 or rush4@xxxxxxxxxxxx
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____
http://www.pronet.net
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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 20:51:19 -0800 (PST)
From: "Rick Tibben"<tibbmopar@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: '69 300 stalling out
Help.
My neighbor has a '69 300 convertible with a 440 TNT engine. It
idles
fine and runs strong. But if you really punch it, the thing just flat
dies.
That seems a bit much for an accelerator problem. Any ideas on the
problem.
Thanks.
__________________________________________________________________________
____
http://www.pronet.net
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