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There are 8 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. 300C vapour lock?
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. park light lenses
From: Ben Meisner <meisnerinc@xxxxxxx>
3. Re: 300C vapour lock?
From: Gary Nelson <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. RE: 300C vapour lock?
From: "JOHN MC ADAMS" <clafong@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. 300c
From: vhelbling@xxxxxxx
6. Fw: 300B engine #1085
From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
7. Elusive '55 ballast resistor
From: "Thomas L. DeBusk" <cfdebusk@xxxxxx>
8. 64 SPORT FURY
From: "Gary Winthrope" <Winthrope@xxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 17:26:27 -0500
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300C vapour lock?
Oddvin,
You should not be having vapor lock problems at 82oF. I would suggest you
look at the following possibilities.
1. the internal and external condition of the hose connection at the fuel
tank to the frame fuel line
2. the internal and external condition of the hose connection from the
frame fuel line to the fuel pump
3. the pump itself may have a worn actuating arm or may have been rebuilt
with an incorrect arm. Remove from car and compare to another pump.
4. it is possible there is excessive wear on the camshaft lobe which
works the fuel pump arm but that would be unusual in a 392.
If you are looking for a high quality small inline electric fuel pump to
place inline near your gas tank, member John Lazenby ( john@xxxxxxxxx )
has these. I recently bought two of them for this exact purpose. John is
at the Nashville meet right now but will be back at work early next week.
Wayne
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 23:25:07 +0200
From: Oddvin Skråmestø <ragtopman@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300C vapour lock?
Hi.
This summer we have had the hotest summer ever here in Norway, several
days with temperatures over 82F. Driving my 300C in this temperature, the
engine stalls when idling, like stopping at traffic lights etc. After a
minor stop or driving at a slow section on the road, the car hesitates
when accelerating. It seems like a fuelpump failure, but only when hot. At
startup cold, and at continuous high speed driving the car acts normal.
When the car stops, it give me a hard time trying to make it run. I have
never had this kind of trouble before, and I have also driven the car at
high temperatures before too. Can a fuelpump start to fail when hot? Or is
the heat making a vapour lock at the pump. The pump is 12 years old, could
this be the first sign of wear?.
I'm planning to install an electric fuelpump to assist the original, and
to help filling up the carbs after the winter rest.
What brand and type should I buy? Anyone with experience on this?
Thanks.
Oddvin Skråmestø
Norway.
[Non-text portions of this
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 16:34:40 -0700
From: Ben Meisner <meisnerinc@xxxxxxx>
Subject: park light lenses
Hi gang...
Anyone have, or know somewhere where I can get a set of park light lenses
for a 300 E....
as always, help is appreciated
Ben Meisner
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 22:45:37 -0700
From: Gary Nelson <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300C vapour lock?
Hi Oddvin
Two possibilities that have not been pointed out that could be your fuel
starving problem. 30 years ago I battled the same problem on a car I owned
at that time. It was the in tank fuel filter on the end of the fuel
sending
unit/ pickup. This is quit often over looked as it is out of sight out of
mind. These filters are a fine Nylon mesh with age will easily clog and
restrict fuel. Unless you have changed this I suspect this could be your
problem. At least you would want to eliminate this possibility.
The other is the fuel filters at the carburetors. That is an easy test as
you can remove the filter elements temporarily to see if that resolves
your
problem. I have stock of both items NOS if you cannot find at your end.
Gary, The Parts Doc
At 11:25 PM 9/13/2002 +0200, Oddvin Skråmestø wrote:
>Hi.
>This summer we have had the hotest summer ever here in Norway, several
>days with temperatures over 82F. Driving my 300C in this temperature, the
>engine stalls when idling, like stopping at traffic lights etc. After a
>minor stop or driving at a slow section on the road, the car hesitates
>when accelerating. It seems like a fuelpump failure, but only when hot.
At
>startup cold, and at continuous high speed driving the car acts normal.
>When the car stops, it give me a hard time trying to make it run. I have
>never had this kind of trouble before, and I have also driven the car at
>high temperatures before too. Can a fuelpump start to fail when hot? Or
is
>the heat making a vapour lock at the pump. The pump is 12 years old,
could
>this be the first sign of wear?.
>I'm planning to install an electric fuelpump to assist the original, and
>to help filling up the carbs after the winter rest.
>What brand and type should I buy? Anyone with experience on this?
>
>Thanks.
>
>Oddvin Skråmestø
>Norway.
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For list server instructions, go to
>http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 23:36:28 -0700
From: "JOHN MC ADAMS" <clafong@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: 300C vapour lock?
Hi Gary:
Another thing to look into that I ran into years ago on the older cars
like ours.
If you have a flexible fuel line running from the frame mounted fuel line
to the fuel pump. These were typically covered with a braided steel mesh.
Sometimes the rubber hose inside will get a split in it and the fuel pump
will suck air easier than it will suck the gas through the line. The
braided steel line will suck air before it will leak gas on the ground.
The braided steel on the outside of the line will also hide any splits
from view.
Take the flex line off, block one end with your finger and blow into the
other end to see if it will hold the air pressure from your lungs. If it
hisses or leaks, you have probably found your problem
Just a thought for you to look into.
Good luck,
John Mc Adams
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Nelson [mailto:Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, September 14, 2002 10:46 PM
To: Oddvin Skråmestø; Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 300C vapour lock?
Hi Oddvin
Two possibilities that have not been pointed out that could be your fuel
starving problem. 30 years ago I battled the same problem on a car I owned
at that time. It was the in tank fuel filter on the end of the fuel
sending
unit/ pickup. This is quit often over looked as it is out of sight out of
mind. These filters are a fine Nylon mesh with age will easily clog and
restrict fuel. Unless you have changed this I suspect this could be your
problem. At least you would want to eliminate this possibility.
The other is the fuel filters at the carburetors. That is an easy test as
you can remove the filter elements temporarily to see if that resolves
your
problem. I have stock of both items NOS if you cannot find at your end.
Gary, The Parts Doc
At 11:25 PM 9/13/2002 +0200, Oddvin Skråmestø wrote:
>Hi.
>This summer we have had the hotest summer ever here in Norway, several
>days with temperatures over 82F. Driving my 300C in this temperature, the
>engine stalls when idling, like stopping at traffic lights etc. After a
>minor stop or driving at a slow section on the road, the car hesitates
>when accelerating. It seems like a fuelpump failure, but only when hot.
At
>startup cold, and at continuous high speed driving the car acts normal.
>When the car stops, it give me a hard time trying to make it run. I have
>never had this kind of trouble before, and I have also driven the car at
>high temperatures before too. Can a fuelpump start to fail when hot? Or
is
>the heat making a vapour lock at the pump. The pump is 12 years old,
could
>this be the first sign of wear?.
>I'm planning to install an electric fuelpump to assist the original, and
>to help filling up the carbs after the winter rest.
>What brand and type should I buy? Anyone with experience on this?
>
>Thanks.
>
>Oddvin Skråmestø
>Norway.
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For list server instructions, go to
>http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ---------------------~-->
4 DVDs Free +s&p Join Now
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---------------------------------------------------------------------~->
To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 13:03:52 EDT
From: vhelbling@xxxxxxx
Subject: 300c
I just finished installing a rebuilt (original engine) in my C. The cam
was
ground to original specs by iskenderian. Carbs are rebuilt (cleaned,new
gasket and seats),and all ignition parts new. The car starts instantly,
but
I can't get the idle low enough without stalling. It does run well at a
fast
idle. It runs for about 5-10 sec and then simply can't get enough gas to
idle. Touching the accelerator linkage gives it a little gas from the
accelerator pump and it keeps running again for 5-10 seconds. When it is
fully warmed up, It is better, but not good enough. Turning the bleeders
out
doesn' t seem to help except I'm not sure how to do both carbs at the same
time. Anyone have any ideas? The car idled well before the rebuild with
the
same carbs. Does the overbore with the new cam cause a change in the low
speed jets? I'm open for ideas Thanks Vince
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 09:09:50 +1200
From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fw: 300B engine #1085
Anyone looking for this motor # for their 300B? Please reply to Rick
directly if interested.
Owen
----- Original Message -----
From: rick schlabowske
To: ram300@xxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Monday, September 16, 2002 7:25 AM
Subject: Re: 300B
The ID # is 3NE56-1085..85th 300B produced in '56.
1618823-1 heads
1619829-1AB with a B86..block ##'s
Rick
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 17:17:54 -0400
From: "Thomas L. DeBusk" <cfdebusk@xxxxxx>
Subject: Elusive '55 ballast resistor
Various responses to my first round of questions about getting my '55
300 started advised me to check the ballast resistor. Hence my question
about where it is. I feel like the kid designated to hold the bag for
the "snipe" hunt, since several of you have now 'fessed up to the fact
that there is no ballast resistor on a 6-volt '55. No wonder I couldn't
find one. Do you folks do this to all the new guys? ;) No wonder I
couldn't find one in the factory wiring diagram to my '52 Saratoga,
either.
Seriously, I took out the starter (what a beast!) and I figure I'm
headed to a rebuild shop to have it checked out. There is a bit of slop
in the bearing where the pinion kicks in. Any advice on how to identify
a competent shop? Don't want this thing butchered. Or is it feasible to
try to rebuild it myself? Kits available anywhere?
Thomas
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 14:18:58 -0700
From: "Gary Winthrope" <Winthrope@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 64 SPORT FURY
I know some of our members have cars other than 300's
Does anyone have 64 sport fury for sale?
Gary
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
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