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There are 16 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. C Hardtop Owners Windshield Alert
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. 64k parts
From: kevin adams <kmotion45@xxxxxxxxx>
3. Engine Paint
From: News4ge@xxxxxxx
4. Re: Re: Multi-Vis Oils
From: mr-320@xxxxxxxxx
5. 300G for sale
From: "Kerney, Delmar L (Del)" <Del.Kerney@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. RE: 68 300 rotor question
From: "PaddyCaddy ." <paddycaddy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Club News Printed Glass Interchange Info
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Engine Paint
From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. New purchase
From: Bob Jasinski <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
10. RE: More Oil Stuff...
From: John Spiers <spiers@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. More Oil Stuff... and lots of cars for sale !
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: New purchase
From: "Jack Farris" <jackfarris@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Fw: 354 engine paint.
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Mopar question
From: "Laurence G. Johnson" <laurence_g_johnson@xxxxxxxxxxx>
15. RE: 68 300 rotor question
From: "Bill Johnson" <bjj@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: More Oil Stuff... and lots of cars for sale !
From: "Karl Peterson" <longrammopar@xxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 20:40:48 -0500
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: C Hardtop Owners Windshield Alert
C Owners:
Apparently Vic, the glass guy, is really working his contacts for glass suitable to our cars. He has checked his own inventory and found a '57 hardtop clear and his contacts had a tinted (no upper "shade") and a shaded (also full tinted) ones in his research.
I bought a NOS clear from him for my Road America C hardtop some 6 years ago and a shaded one at the same time that is still on my shelf. So here is your chance for a few pieces of NOS glass. I would say, get them while you can and while Vic is concentrating on our cars. His primary hobby involvement is Studebakers and so we can't expect him to stay on our cause.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: victor phillips = classicglass@xxxxxxxx
To: Wayne Graefen
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2002 9:42 PM
Subject: Re: W453
WAYNE...
I JUST FOUND A COUPLE OF N.O.S WINDSHIELDS W451 ,,1957 CHRYS. 2 DR HARDTOP TINT AND A SHADED ONE.
I HAVE A CLEAR ONE IN STOCK.
ALSO FITS DESOTO & DODGE 1957 2 DR. HARDTOP ONLY, AND 1957-58 PLY. 2 DR. HARDTOP.
THANKS AGAIN.....VIC
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 19:24:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: kevin adams <kmotion45@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 64k parts
Anyone out there got a set of 64 k console bezels and
lenses . Trying to finish my interior this
season.Thanks, Kevin
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 22:33:16 EDT
From: News4ge@xxxxxxx
Subject: Engine Paint
Hi, all,
Has anyone tried POR15 engine paint? How did it work out? Brush marks? Did
the "Chrysler Turquoise" match the Chrysler Green of the 62-65 cars?
How about POR15 header paint?
Thanks,
George Clineman
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 23:37:38 -0700 (MST)
From: mr-320@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Multi-Vis Oils
I DONT GIVE A RATS''''''
i got 350,000 on a 440 that was run very hard by me, on 40 and 50
straight weight valvoline racing oil with ''pro blend'' additive and i
shall continue to use the very same mixture in the future.....
JEFF
tucson az.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 10:07:59 -0500
From: "Kerney, Delmar L (Del)" <Del.Kerney@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300G for sale
We are moving to a smaller place so I am reducing my automotive inventory.
1961 300G hardtop, cream color 999 paint, all options except cruise and
record player.
E-mail my home address ( not nav-international ) for pictures, description,
price, etc. Home address is A61300G@xxxxxxxxxxx
<mailto:A61300G@xxxxxxxxxxx> .
Del Kerney
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 14:16:38 -0400
From: "PaddyCaddy ." <paddycaddy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: 68 300 rotor question
If someone can give me exact interchange, I can probably come up with some
used ones. I have a few buddies who own huge salvage yards. It would help
to have the specs on how thick they need to be also, since many old rotors
are useless from wear.
I'd be willing to make a few calls for y'all if I get some specifics.
That 61 bumper someone needs also.
Sean.
>From: "Bill Johnson" <bjj@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
>To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>CC: <chry67300@xxxxxxx>
>Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] 68 300 rotor question
>Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 05:30:49 -0600
>
>Tom
>
>It is my understanding that the answer to your question is NO!
>(Unfortunately) As another 68 owner with Budd Disc Brakes, I have followed
>numerous threads on both the C-Body list and the Imperial List. Actually
>their archives will have a ton of information on it about these. It is
>www.imperialclub.com if you want to check. Last I heard before I dropped
>off
>that list was one member was experimenting with a rotor off a 70 vintage
>Toyota Supra that was close in specs. Some machining was to be required but
>I can't remember all the details. It seemed quite a long shot to me.
>
>Good luck in your search and if you find some at a good price, pick me up 2
>as well!
>
>Whiteshoes
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 16
> Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 12:24:41 EDT
> From: chry67300@xxxxxxx
>Subject: 68 300 rotor question
>
>Hello to all,
> I have a 68 300 with factory disc brakes. I would like to replace my
>rotors
>with new pieces. I know they are nonexistent. The original 66-68 rotors
>were
>two-piece in design. 68-72(?) were one piece in design and I can get those
>NORS. The bearings listed for both are the same parts. Can anyone tell me
>form experience if I can use the later rotors? Thank you, Tom
>
>
>
>
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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 15:42:01 -0500
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Club News Printed Glass Interchange Info
If you are wondering about all the windshield interchanges and back glass and side and vent windows, you need look no further than the Summer and Fall issues of the 1990 Club News where Gloria Moon did a great job of putting that all out in print.
See, you can use that '60 Plymouth station wagon windshield in your local salvage yard to replace your F convertible's that the neighbor kid used for target practice!
Wayne
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Thu, 03 Jan 1980 14:40:29 -0800
From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Engine Paint
I just finished painting a 354 Hemi. I used POR-15 silver undercoat and then put POR-15
Silver engine paint on top. I had no brush marks but you can't brush it out to much or
you will get some. It looks great but I don't have a car to put it in so I don't know
how the paint will hold up under use.
I have also used the header paint for years. I found it works better if you use a metal
prep on the headers before painting. then bake them after words. The silver color seems
to last about 4-5 years under daily use before it needs a repaint.
Hope this helps a little....Gary Barker
News4ge@xxxxxxx wrote:
> Hi, all,
>
> Has anyone tried POR15 engine paint? How did it work out? Brush marks? Did
> the "Chrysler Turquoise" match the Chrysler Green of the 62-65 cars?
>
> How about POR15 header paint?
>
> Thanks,
>
> George Clineman
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 17:18:02 -0700
From: Bob Jasinski <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: New purchase
Dear list,
I just bought a '65 Barracuda Formula S. It is a black plate California car that needs to be restored. Came with a new Year One interior. Anybody on the list own one of these? Feedback appreciated.
300 content-took the G out last night for my town's summer celebration "Hot Summer Nights". Perfect night for cruising with the top down and temp about 85.
Bob J
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 18:48:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Spiers <spiers@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: More Oil Stuff...
My Chevy Venture has has 5W30 Mobil 1 since new &
changed every 5000 miles (company-paid maintenance),
now has 149,000 miles, no oil consumption. It also
has modern seals & gaskets.
Years ago, I used Mobil 1 in a 1962 Morgan Plus 4 with
its factory installed Triumph TR-3 four cylinder. It
had previously serviced only with petroleum oil,
100,000+ miles. The minor oil weeping I was
accustomed to grew to several driveway-staining drips.
The synthetic oil found its way past the cork valve
cover & oil pan gaskets, the front T/C seal & rear
main seal. Though each of these had been replaced 4-5
years earlier, none was entirely effective in holding
in the Mobil 1. I switched back to petroleum-based
oil, and the dripping returned to the previous few
weeps.
I have not recently used synthetics in the Chryslers,
but would hesitate doing so for the leakage/staining
reason, but have no doubt the lubricating properties
are superior.
John Spiers
--- Jeff Gretz <gretz@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> What about synthetic oils? Does anyone have
> experience using Mobil 1 or
> others?
>
> Jeff
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Andy Mikonis [mailto:r41hp@xxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2002 8:05 AM
> To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] More Oil Stuff...
>
>
>
> I was always taught to go with the single grade oil,
> too. I spent my formative car-owning years in
> Florida
> and this was thought to be best in that hot climate.
>
> But I read something interesting:
>
> Patrick Bedard, in the November 1999 Car and Driver
> quotes an Ed Kollin of Lubrication Sciences; he
> makes
> custom blended oils, and Bedard asks him about the
> best oil for an occasionally driven 'keeper car.'
>
> He says oil has gradually evolved; the amount of the
> primary anti-wear additive zinc dialkyl
> dithiophosphate (ZDDP) has been reduced by 25%
> because
> it is harful to catalysts. Also, he says gas
> additives MTBE and ethanol dilute oil by 5 to 10%
> and
> are very corrosive to the materials used in older
> engines. He suggests corrosion is the worst enemy
> for
> our cars - more so than wear at startup.
>
> His "off-the-shelf" solution: "C" grade 15W-40 oil
> for
> diesel engines. Why?
> 1. The "oil part" is the same, and 15W-40 is
> thicker.
> 2. 80% more ZDDP.
> 2. 30-50% more corrosion inhibitors and detergents:
> these oils are designed to neutralize the sulfuric
> acid produced by diesel fuel - this takes care of
> the
> corrsion problem. He also says the higher detergents
> will free up sticky rings "quickly."
>
> He cautions "nitrogen compounds in the high dose of
> dispersant may cause some seals to leak." Also, if a
> non-detergent oil was used before, the detergents
> will
> knock "chunks of sludge loose", possibly clogging
> lifters.
>
> Interesting stuff. I don't know anything about it.
> Haven't tried it yet. Thought about it. Comments?
>
> Andy
>
> __________________________________________________
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>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 22:53:48 -0400
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: More Oil Stuff... and lots of cars for sale !
Hi to all,
My understanding is that synthetic oil is the way to go with Turbo cars...
when shutting off a Turbo car, the oil will sit in the hot turbo unit and
"cook" . Synthetic will not cook, but regular engine oil will. As far as my
Chryslers, I have always believed that fresh oil of any major brand, changed
regularly ( at least once a year irregardless of mileage) together with the
filter, is all that is needed to prolong engine life. Shoot me if you will.
Our cars are collector cars, and how many of us actually DRIVE these cars
long and hard and many miles a year ?
Cars for sale : time to thin the herd. Please contact me directly if
interested in any or all ! I seriously want to sell some of these.
1/ 1965 Chrysler 300L - blue hardtop. Cold a/c, p/w, am-fm, p/ant ; disc
brake conversion, class 3 trailer hitch, trans cooler; road wheels. Restored
1998. Clean #3+ condition car, Legendary interior, rechromed this and that,
driven 35,000+ miles since resto with ZERO problems, dependable, clean, will
tow loaded car trailer all day long at 80+ mph. Original and and far as I
know unrebuilt drivetrain; motor likes its oil but runs great. Trans
resealed recently, no leaks, shifts perfect. Excellent and clean driver !
$6250.00 includes extra parts; pictures at
http://www.chrysler300club.com/stories/bluel/blueL.html
Fly in, and drive it home anywhere on the planet in cold a/c comfort.
2/ Gee-burger. 1961 Chrysler 300G hardtop, CA car, was white with "888" red
interior. Burned in garage fire ( not here ) . Very restorable but it needs
the FULL resto treatment ! not for the faint of heart. RUNS AND DRIVES !
COLD A/C STILL ! Have 98% of all parts needed to repair. Strong engine
and transmission, runs great. This car DESERVES to be restored, and it's a
red interior "888" car to boot ! Inquire as to $$$'s . I will NOT part this
car out or sell it to someone who will. Check out pictures at
http://www.crossrams.com/888/main.html
3/ "Golden" the 300G . Reluctantly offering for sale, only to Club members
for now. It's just too nice of a restoration for me, and too historically
significant as well... I never use this car, shame on me, it just sits in
the garage. Recent full restoration using only the best...subtle upgrades
KYB's, Eagle GT's, Firm-Feel box, conversion Am to FM Stereo radio ) make
this car an incredible, tight, comfortable, reliable driver. Lots and lots
of NOS parts used in resto. Contact me directly for price and details. Not
cheap. But it's one-of-a-kind ! Featured in two major Mopar magazines;
pictures at : http://www.crossrams.com/golden/main.html
4/ 1970 Fury III convertible - a/c, p/w, p/seat. halfway through restoration
, the hard part is all done, all rust eradicated correctly with new metal,
hours and hours spent on it. Why I don't know. I'm nuts. Strong 383 / 727
installed and running / driving. New dual exhaust, tune, two new / NOS
bumpers, good working top with glass rear window, SOLID original floors, all
doorjambs, engine cpt, trunk painted 1960 Chrysler Dusk Mauve, needs
exterior painted, seats recovered, and final reassembly only. Easy to
finish! Nice looking convert ! lots of pictures of resto at :
http://www.crossrams.com/fury/fury.html ; Some NOS parts included. $4700 OBO
for quick sale.
5/ 1960 Chrysler Windsor 4 door ( black sedan) . Good driver. Complete A to
Z new front end. Complete A to Z brakes. New tires. Lots of rust repair
done right with metal. Original RB 383 runs well, about 95K miles. Original
trans works well. Still needs two good front fenders ( rust) . Otherwise
ready for skim coat and paint. Includes new carpet, other spares. Too good
to be used for parts. $800.00 OBO and it's yours !
http://www.crossrams.com/windsor/windsor.html for pictures.
300'ly
John
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 20:52:31 -0700
From: "Jack Farris" <jackfarris@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: New purchase
After about a dozen or more used cars (including two Packards and an
assortmant of Mopars), the first brand new car I owned was a '65 Formula S.
It was dark blue, and had a four barrel 273 cubic inch engine that put out
235 HP (and a really neat sounding exhaust). The car was well equipped,
including air conditioning. I bought it in Houston TX a few months before
moving to Los Angeles. It was a great car.
In one of the dumber things I've done in my life (and there have been many),
I traded the "S" for a new bucket of bolts (Triumph Spitfire) in 1968.
Jack
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>From: Bob Jasinski <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>To: Chrysler 300 Email Network <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: [Chrysler300] New purchase
>Date: Fri, Jul 12, 2002, 5:18 PM
>
> Dear list,
>
> I just bought a '65 Barracuda Formula S. It is a black plate California
> car that needs to be restored. Came with a new Year One interior. Anybody
> on the list own one of these? Feedback appreciated.
>
> 300 content-took the G out last night for my town's summer celebration "Hot
> Summer Nights". Perfect night for cruising with the top down and temp about
85.
>
> Bob J
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 23:55:47 -0400
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fw: 354 engine paint.
Forwarding as per request...
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim McMullan" <macthehammer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>
> John please forward to list for a laugh.Years ago I built up a 354 to race
> on 1/4 mile dirt.It was on the floor in the shop and I had given it a coat
of
> silver paint.Went up stars to change into racing close-red shirt and white
> pants.This was common practice in those days If you lost it on the track
and
> were spinning through the pits and saw something that was red on top and
white
> below you tried to miss it because it was probably at least partly
human.Aney
> way I went to the shop to wait for my friends to pick me up.Decided to
touch up
> some flat spots. Set the can on the floor and knocked the engine over
cutting a
> almost full spray can in too.I was red and white on one side and silver on
the
> other just as my buddies arived.Took about 3 years to live that down.Jim
> McMullan 300 F
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 00:01:15 -0400
From: "Laurence G. Johnson" <laurence_g_johnson@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Mopar question
I have personal knowledge of another V-800 non Fury. It was also a station
wagon, don't remember which model. But it was FAST, easily a match with the
270 horse 57 Chevies. It was a cast iron TorqueFlite push button. It had a
nasty habit of blowing the radiator hose of when it was run hard and
rounding the keyways in the axles. How does yours perform? LGJ
>From: jim helm <helmj@xxxxxxxxxx>
>To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: [Chrysler300] Mopar question
>Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 08:32:35 -0700
>Thanks to all of you very knowledgeable Mopar people on this list--it
>really
>does appear that my '57 Plymouth Suburban wagon with the Fury engine and
>dual 4's is a "factory ordered" original. The car has only had two owners,
>and just after I wrote this question to the listserver, I got in touch with
>a guy that knew the second owner. He says that the car was indeed special
>ordered with this engine, and that it is probably quite rare. Anyway, it is
>a gem and I really appreciate the input from you folks!
>
>Jim Helm
>
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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 03:07:21 -0600
From: "Bill Johnson" <bjj@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: 68 300 rotor question
Sean
Thanks for the offer. I do not have the specs on them but they are the Budd
style only front discs used on the C Bodies and Imperials from 66 thru 68.
And I am not absolutely positive that the Imperial is the same. I know the
hub is different as it uses a larger bolt pattern but the rotor itself may
be the same. My car is not accessible at the moment to get any measurements
for you, sorry.
Whiteshoes
-----Original Message-----
From: PaddyCaddy . [mailto:paddycaddy@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2002 12:17 PM
To: bjj@xxxxxxxxxxxx; Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Cc: chry67300@xxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] 68 300 rotor question
If someone can give me exact interchange, I can probably come up with some
used ones. I have a few buddies who own huge salvage yards. It would help
to have the specs on how thick they need to be also, since many old rotors
are useless from wear.
I'd be willing to make a few calls for y'all if I get some specifics.
That 61 bumper someone needs also.
Sean.
>From: "Bill Johnson" <bjj@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
>To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>CC: <chry67300@xxxxxxx>
>Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] 68 300 rotor question
>Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 05:30:49 -0600
>
>Tom
>
>It is my understanding that the answer to your question is NO!
>(Unfortunately) As another 68 owner with Budd Disc Brakes, I have followed
>numerous threads on both the C-Body list and the Imperial List. Actually
>their archives will have a ton of information on it about these. It is
>www.imperialclub.com if you want to check. Last I heard before I dropped
>off
>that list was one member was experimenting with a rotor off a 70 vintage
>Toyota Supra that was close in specs. Some machining was to be required but
>I can't remember all the details. It seemed quite a long shot to me.
>
>Good luck in your search and if you find some at a good price, pick me up 2
>as well!
>
>Whiteshoes
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 16
> Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 12:24:41 EDT
> From: chry67300@xxxxxxx
>Subject: 68 300 rotor question
>
>Hello to all,
> I have a 68 300 with factory disc brakes. I would like to replace my
>rotors
>with new pieces. I know they are nonexistent. The original 66-68 rotors
>were
>two-piece in design. 68-72(?) were one piece in design and I can get those
>NORS. The bearings listed for both are the same parts. Can anyone tell me
>form experience if I can use the later rotors? Thank you, Tom
>
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 10:14:45 -0500
From: "Karl Peterson" <longrammopar@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: More Oil Stuff... and lots of cars for sale !
>From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Shoot me if you will.
Our cars are collector cars, and how many of us actually DRIVE these cars
long and hard and many miles a year?
John,
I wouldn't think of "shooting" you, but to respond to your question.....I
do. My Mopars, including the 300, were purchased with the full intent of
driving them anywhere and anytime the fancy crossed my mind and that is
exactly what I do.....rather frequently, I might add.
I do not believe in possessing "trailer queens" or "garage lizards". Of
course, I would not think of holding it against anyone who does. This is
still a "free" country.
Karl
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