Re: {Chrysler 300} 1960-61 Crossram
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Re: {Chrysler 300} 1960-61 Crossram



Carl, i think on J and K the huge variable of the exhaust  heat  valve  is gone . The idle cams never work  at the same time on F or G which makes the chokes act separately. Unlike most dual quads it really is two 4 cylinder engines; if one side gets rich or lean it stalls    . Once warm and running it’s  ok  . 
J and K fixed that by no heat valve (YES) and manual  chokes forcing both sides to stay even , on the same idle step   during warm up .
Those who  somehow think the factory 60-61  will consistently work perfectly by endless diddling are dreaming .I can say that after 50 years at this . — maybe in Texas with heat off, chokes set lean and minor gas pedal fiddling at start.

They  positively  did  not work  well during warmup back  in the day ,leading to setting high idle and  slamming  into gear (?even language about  that in owners manual ! !) 
—why so many  were pulled and why NONE in 62 .

Enthusiasts  put up with it, normal buyers , no .  Rams in trunk were common , why you find a lot  of rams loose today but no exhaust manifolds  
You can mimic J by fixed 1/4 aperture washers in F and G heat pipe flange  , remove plate  on heat valve or tie open with stainless wire so it  does NOT stick shut ( stuck on full heat) as they all  do sooner or later over a winter .  
I think  electric   chokes on that setup, with no , or fixed  heat set up will work as well as J or K. 

The real issue is during the partial  warm up period the chokes are  not in sync  on F and G and so flooding 1/2 of it is easy  if you pump the gas .   And  for some  reason flooded rams are  hard to clear ,( plugs wet?)  , it cranks without  even a slight catch , you know you are in for fun. Ether spray , and it will start , so for sure gas mixture is off . 

I have been at club meets where real pros get into this . Has happened me . You are not sure if flooded , or ignition, or  whatever  . 

At home you can walk away , come back later it starts right up 

While time  is an issue these days , I always wanted  to try water heat, flex throttle cable to each carb  (?like 67 dart has,or Lokar ) and AVS carb ( much better carb that afb or edelbrock) and use the  electric  choke the avs comes  with . Cables would allow separate normal idle screw  setup , using transition slot  to keep idle mixture right across rpm during idle warm up . Stock  F and G lock throttles  solid with a rod , why  they had that very special air valve carb to set idle air flow . However that valve stays at a fixed setting (!)  unlike transition slot, no tracking on high idle . Wrong in a most basic way to have no transition slot action at all . 

Note anti stall spring opening fouls  up idle mix   , unlike a normal carb which would enter the  transition slot . Sounds like poorly  thought out band aid , as see next paragraph …  

Add to this , what to me is a huge factory  design fault , ram runs manifold  vacuum ignition advance  ( not ported !!) . Must be only car in the world that way . So idle compensater plunger opens  throttle,   vacuum drops,   spark retards  ,slowing  idle  not sure where that got you . all this Gone by 63 as Carl  said . 

You look in ram setup bulletin , after setting idle with advance disconnected it says “ there is no specification for spark at idle with vacuum connected “ ( wha?) Could not believe my eyes. Translation : full advance at idle, with manifold vacuum ? or? What happens as you step  on gas hot ? retards just  off idle  then advances again on cruise ? 

This ignition aspect can lead to hunting , erratic idle rpm , more vacuum equals more advance equals more rpm , nothing to do with  mixture screw you are messing with . Or a drop in vacuum lowers advance , means more rpm drop , means stall ,,as when entering drive 
 
AVS is ported as is Edelbrock  

All this can drive you crazy, the more you try to understand or look into it , the less you can comprehend  what they were doing all in , all happening at once . 
.
As John says, all thus may average out , you can get to B+ if you are  good ,
 Attempting an A + involves  compromise somewhere else . And same engine often runs  a bit differently in different cars , a few are terrific ,  some are slugs 

In closing , I saw with my own two eyes   a long ram on a built 440 on a careful , optimized  dyno run . It was 40 hp less at 5000 than a mopar performance single 4 bbl . AB swap 
But I love how they look …and yes nice wallop  at 70 mph  with the torque  
They can increase Jack or Jameson fueling too . 
Overstudy? Overthink ? maybe … 
Still love the look , love the J , more “ fully baked” 



On Feb 18, 2025, at 7:30 AM, John Nowosacki <jsnowosacki@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:


My guess would be that on cars with non-functioning anti-stall dashpots, any owners experiencing a stall at stop signs/traffic lights would probably just increase the idle settings on the carbs slightly higher to compensate and avoid the issue.  Idle speed in neutral may be a bit higher than desired, but still not as high as fast idle cam setting for cold starts.  They may also have increased/richened the mixture idle screws to compensate for the slight vacuum leak caused by a failed diaphragm.  It's easy enough to observe a properly functioning dashpot or to test it by applying vacuum to make sure the plunger moves in and out.  Between choke spring settings, choke pull-off adjustments, the anti-stall dashpot, and carb idle and mixture settings, there's a lot to play with, and none of it very precise or repeatable over time, but simply following the manual can get you relatively close to making it work much as intended for good drivability.  Throw in the spring tension and piston sealing on the step up rods/jets in the carbs, and you can find yourself impressed that the cars run as well as they do! ;-)  Lots of things can be set 'incorrectly' but also can 'average out' to result in a vehicle that starts, runs, and drives just fine to get to car shows and cruise nights, but may not win a Mobil economy run or score high in the Flying Mile at Daytona.  (haven't even mentioned distributor setup which has its own dashpot/advance, plus mechanical advance, dwell, dual points, etc.)
Be patient, read the manual, maybe watch a Youtube or two, keep asking questions of the knowledgeable folks in the club, and enjoy the ride.

On Tue, Feb 18, 2025 at 4:49 AM Carl Bilter <cbilter@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
My question is how critical is this component in normal engine operation?  If so many are damaged either from age or "user error" in adjustment, which I think is true, then there must be plenty of crossram cars running around with a non-functional dashpot.  It was eliminated on the J and Ram K, and they run fine without it.  

Carl B.  .  


------ Original Message ------
From "John Grady" <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To "Tony Rinaldi" <awrdoc@xxxxxxxxx>
Cc "Club International Chrysler" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date 2/17/2025 10:56:34 AM
Subject Re: {Chrysler 300} 1960-61 Crossram Dash Pot Replacements Heads Up

i beluve  this part , not the bracket is on 440 six  pack sticks in late 60’s and is reproduced   , they were stalling  on decell when you push in clutch . One can adapt it? 

We should note these are broken by 300 owners  all the  time ! if you attempt to adjust it with one wrench your tear the  diaphragm inside instantly . You must use two wrenches and  be sure not to let the stem going into the can turn . If it does  it is junk , it cannot resist turning torque  , tears s hoke in center of diaphragm  
jg 

On Feb 17, 2025, at 9:53 AM, 'Tony Rinaldi' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

 5 were bought of the 6. Last one left at low price 



On Sunday, February 16, 2025, 2:52 PM, 'Tony Rinaldi' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Hi To All,

This item is not available. I remember coming across a Pontiac Dash Pot that I recommended to friends who were able to successfully modify to fit and replace their non functional vacuum operated dash pots. 

I am showing you the original part that had both sides of the vacuum can being metal. D5-34R

Then these newer replacements that have one side plastic. 

One vendor has 6 at a reasonable price. The other has one that is double the price. 

If you need a replacement or want to do a belt and suspenders in case yours fails, you may want to consider these alternatives. 

Tony Rinaldi


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