Re: {Chrysler 300} Cooling System

Many cars of the era were equipped with a spring inside the radiator hose to stop it from collapsing when pressure dropped inside. Most common on the lower hose to my understanding. Believe springs can be found a as reproduced for GM cars?

Narve

C-300 since 1985

From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> on behalf of Justin I <captjj28@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2025 00:49
To: ridgleyracing65@xxxxxxxxx <ridgleyracing65@xxxxxxxxx>; chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; mguarneri@xxxxxxx <mguarneri@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Cooling System - 1956 300B

While we are on the subject, the upper hose on my B sucks nearly closed when the engine is cooling down after running. When the coolant cools/contracts, the rad cap should be allowing air into the system (or at least, that's how I understand it). I don't know if I have the wrong one/type or if the quality today is just not there.

If someone has a specific recommendation for a brand (with web link), it would be appreciated. Stock 354 Hemi.

Thanks,

Justin

From: mguarneri via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2025 5:23 PM
To: ridgleyracing65@xxxxxxxxx <ridgleyracing65@xxxxxxxxx>; chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Cooling System - 1956 300B

I don't claim to be an expert on this subject, however I have own a '56 Windsor for 48 years with a 331 poly. I was told years ago that the poly required a 160 degree thermostat with a 7 lb pressure cap. A full hemi required a 180 degree thermostat with a 15 lb pressure cap. I have never overheated especially in stop and go traffic in 90 degrees....John

In a message dated 1/28/2025 11:36:53 AM Eastern Standard Time, ridgleyracing65@xxxxxxxxx writes:

The Factory 1956 Service Manual specifies a 160° thermostat and I am big fan of 160° units in older cars that are not driven in cold weather. Restored or not, these are old cars and any reduction of excess heat is a good thing for the mechanicals. I do drill a 1/16" hole to help the system bleed during the fill process. Most of the "high flow" and more expensive thermostats have a bleed hole already from the factory. Personally I see no need for a "high flow" unit in a street driven car.

Dyke Ridgley

On Tuesday, January 28, 2025 at 9:31:30 AM UTC-6 dplotkin wrote:

Here’s an opinion:

Stant thermostats seem to work as always. I am a big fan of using the OEM type and rating. I am not a fan of second guessing Mother Mopar. Drilling a hole in a T stat is for drag racers or others who think they know better. The stock fan and radiator in an otherwise good condition engine will cool just fine.

I am not a fan of looking for trouble you don’t yet have. A working water pump should be blessed and left alone.

Ribbed radiator hoses usually indicate an owner unwilling or unable to find and install the correct hoses. Glad to hear you are on the move.

Danny Plotkin

From: chrysler-300-cl...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:chrysler-300-cl...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of towsonhe
Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2025 9:47 AM
To: Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-cl...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: {Chrysler 300} Cooling System - 1956 300B

Hello all,

I'm looking for a couple of recommendations on tackling some items on the cooling system of by 56 300B:

-Does anyone have any recommendations for a good brand of thermostat? Do most people run a 180 or 195 degree thermostat? Would you recommend a high flow or standard thermostat? Do any of you drill a small hole in the thermostat?

-My water pump I believe is original to the car. My car has 86k miles on it. I am changing out my hoses to the solid molded radiator hoses as I have had some issues with the flexi hoses leaking. My thought was that while I am replacing the hoses, this would be an easy task to do. Would you all recommend proactively changing the pump, even though I'm not having any weird noises or cooling issues? My radiator had to be recored when I bought the car and has been completely gone through.

I'd like to not have to do the same maintenance twice if I did the pump later, as I also need to change the drive belts too.

Any advice is greatly appreciated!

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