that too cool is a good problem . get an IR thermometer , maybe the higher reading was the wrong one . Far more likely The senders we get now are not great vary all over the place if new, don’t match our gauges , and not a precision thing at all . But till messed with usually consistent . . 57-58 temp senders for non thermal gauges only work if you pull them off old junk motor , replacements you get are wrong totally My 78 3i8 truck , I had a huge fight with gas gauge calibration after market float and resistor part replacement was also a joke . said E when half full . Hard to believe that far out so pulled dash to check v regulator, resolder pins to pc card at plug etc , while out converted to electronic ( although in retrospect original one was working ok . I can say that as temp ran in middle of range always , after conversion it read at high end of normal range , I did not like that psychologically as 15 years in middle .) And it made gas issue worse , not better, as when full now , gauge went beyond F . On the original problem i finally said this thing is just not defeating me again after two gas tank pulls = I made a new arm and float measured travel etc . redid all that, still using the l “ wrong “ aftermarket sender which had correct resistor ohms . New ford brass float , made new arm of # 10 copper solid wire ,soldered and wrapped on old arm , made sure float could reach bottom of tank which required extending and shaping the arm. Think about it , not an electric problem at all if float stops dropping with 5 gallons still in tank because arm is just too short , it hits its own stop and ohms are max , so says to gauge ; Read E . You rush for gas it takes 12 Tank in and out 3 x due to junk “ it fits your car” sender from china . All of them are like this . Note ohm check is ok . moving by hand connected to car is ok too . Auuuugh So takeaway , putting electronic regulator is not all roses . I would add diode in series after all this to reduce it another .7 v . Better slightly low reading than high on E ( you still have a lot of gas) or high on temp . 5 v steady is a little higher i think than effective heating of stick pulser type, although worked ok on many F . And the pulsar in can are reliable in my experience .. Get I R temp gauge — if bulk of motor or IR reading at thermostat is within 7-8 degrees of setting you are perfect , just note where gauge is . That is your new reality as normal I know nothing of fail open thermostats , sounds like a new set of problems ? one overheat and it stays open? jg On Sep 8, 2024, at 11:02 AM, 'James Douglas' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: -- For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/8FDB6879-FD44-4BCC-BD79-EE2E752A900A%40gradyresearch.com. |
Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network
Archive Sitemap