Re: {Chrysler 300} Carter carbs / storage
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Re: {Chrysler 300} Carter carbs / storage



I am surprised nobody has mentioned No-Rosion products. We have used their coolant corrosion protector for over 30 years, and also use their fuel additives. For full disclosure , I have become friends with Jay Ross, the owner of the company, partially because we purchase a lot of their products. The company, Applied Specialty Chemicals, actually produces many of the over-the-counter automotive additive products for name brand sellers, and the additive package for one of the major race fuel company's. 

I would recommend you go to their website (norosion.com) and review all the quarterly newsletters that go into great chemistry detail about their products and how fuels and coolants work. The content is amazing and very instructive. All I can say is their products work. They are not snake oil. We currently have them in about 140 cars.

No question, finding ethanol-free gas is a big plus. Luckily, we have it here in Central Illinois. Race gas will also help, but MAKE SURE it is ethanol-free. The No-Rosion website also has very instructive things to say about using avgas in automobiles.

I am happy to personally discuss all this with anyone who would like more information.

Dyke Ridgley



On Wednesday, August 21, 2024 at 10:26:39 AM UTC-5 Henry Schleimer wrote:
The other day I caught a You Tube where the guy was interviewing "The Motor Oil Geek" about older cars and the oils to use, oil additives to use or not use etc. At the end he was asked about storing cars and the problems John mentioned about fuel and whether it was the ethanol causing it. The Geek said yes because it absorbed water and caused deposits but it was worse for marine engines (as they are surrounded by water). He said to get some fuel additive from a Marine chandler that boaties add to ethanol fuel to fix the problem.

I'm sorry I don't remember if he mentioned a brand and I don't know the name of the youtuber. The Geek guy has his own channel but I can't see it on his lists. I personally find his manner annoying but he is an expert who worked for an oil company rather than a back yard guy.

I didn't take that much notice as I can buy ethanol free. My Val and Mustang run dry after a week but don't have any problems once they get the carb full again.

I am only providing this for info if someone wants to go and have a look. I have no stake in this and don't want any aggravation, thanks.

Henry

-----Original Message-----
From: chrysler-300-cl...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:chrysler-300-cl...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of John Grady
Sent: Wednesday, 21 August 2024 10:31 PM
To: chrysler 300 club
Subject: {Chrysler 300} Carter carbs / storage

I have become extremely frustrated with what happens to our cars in storage , often after less than a year now, probably due to ethanol as a compounding problem .

You go to drive your car , it will not run right or idle etc due to residual junk “in carb passages” after evaporation of fuel , plus what is in tank goes bad .
Don’t even say Stabil , it’s ethanol .

Briggs and Stratton make some special stuff, as they have fat in this fire. I have been using it . It is an engineered product can’t hurt is thinking but still the issue remains . With a lot of cars able to go this gets really bad .

I wonder if anyone in club has a real answer ? “ Stabil worked for me “ is not a real answer , as in moonlight worked for me .

Someone mentioned putting two stroke oil in with gas ,— that might work especially if a strong mixture of this was drawn into carb the day you put it away and you are rigorous about it , keep records etc I was thinking modify fuel line to a well done rubber hose or special fittings so you could easily disconnect and do this, put the filter right at carb , disconnect line hold temp bottle with a hose at bottom , up over for last few minutes ?

“Original looks “ that do not work is just not so good .


But the big takeaway on this I found yesterday on a hot rod site , as I have a 318 78 dodge truck recently restored , idle mix screws sort of unresponsive, stalling etc etc Went looking about erratic inoperable idle screws on Carter ( saw that issue many times on 300 )— it has a rebuilt carb Carter BBD 2 bl rebuilt only a few years ago and ran great before two years on non use . BBD variations were used from 50 ‘s to 80’s as the mopar 2 bbl

So on the site the guy mentioned that the problem arises in the narrowed- down tip of the very narrow brass tubes that dip into fuel to feed the idle circuit . The hole at the end is long and tubular , smaller than the smallest drill in a 100 drill numbered set . It is made I think by swaging brass tube down . I believe AFB are same design , these tubes and a cover on them are part of the main venturi cluster held in with two special screws . unfortunately you have to pull carb top to get at it. Best done with carb off …. obviously

Along the lines of why not try , i did this , sure enough junk in tiny tip hole from dried gas . cleaned out with stainless wire , blew out with air … It works! Idle screws out 1.75 turns like normal !’ Before 6-7 turns still not running right Awwwright!
All these years thinking some mysterious thing happens to carbs , cured by rebuild , $ time and hassle . Now I feel I know something new Good to know … Still learning … may help you , —- that , and use current edelbrock needles in our carbs , that cures deformed seats inside carb from too much golden screwdriver as taper is different jkg

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