Thanks for all the tips on testing power window switches. Everyone was very helpful! From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of John Grady Hi , on switches in general , 57 up , an ohmmeter from central pin to each side will show continuity , that is 60% of it . But inside they often burn at contacts to the point of mechanically getting out of order or becoming intermittent . Usually the driver window position . Also the push on small loop wire connections a little flimsy , bad connections I have taken apart maybe 20 -30 of them scrounging parts from seldom used positions to fix bad front ones You can open but casting often breaks ,don’t overdo the opening bend — but you can epoxy back in . And add a new bend place , but fragile Some cases will be tossed anyway for parts So save ugly ones . Two things go wrong , there are two little steel springs — they get rusty if water hits switches . Then toggle is loose and floppy ., Intermittent too .Csn stick on Clean and oil And there is a brass flat spring in some of them in addition , —- if contacts burn it can get out of position and hang things up . Point of all this is hard to tell what you really have without opening , but if from back of car and the low ohms scale is ok , ( under 1 ohm) probably good , if floppy toggle or intermittent etc probably hurt inside . There are two styles of toggle top , but seem to fit ok , but that complicates a group of 4 Right answer is add relays but you would need two per motor , and a new power lead to each place — thought about it . Kit might be 100 -125 per window , any interest ? Also looked at adapting later PM motors by Bosch used in 70’s mopars , jeeps etc pinion pitch is slightly different ( of course ) mesh won’t wotk so dropped it . Can do but $ . They would need relay too as polarity reverses in those . Our motors are often on edge , scored shafts by rust inside bearing at bottom , and bottom end bearing area in general becoming a ball of rust .. Cant fix that, tried several ways . I have never seen one needing “ rewinding” problem is brush holder and bottom bearing area mechanically destroyed by water Critical to seal that plastic water thrower disc to shaft with WS cement and or use valve stem seal . Especially those that face up I drill an 060 hole now in center of back cover so if water gets in it will get out . Do not have to open it — put one drop of oil in too . not more than, if it gets in brushes it ruins it Drill chips are behind bearing area jkg
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