RE: {Chrysler 300} Testing Power Window Switches - 1963 Chrysler
[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

RE: {Chrysler 300} Testing Power Window Switches - 1963 Chrysler



Thanks for all the tips on testing power window switches.  Everyone was very helpful!

 

From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of John Grady
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2024 9:15 AM
To: mplindahl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Cc: Chrysler list server <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Testing Power Window Switches - 1963 Chrysler

 

Hi ,  on switches in general , 57 up , 

an ohmmeter from central pin to each side will show continuity , that is 60% of it .

But inside they often burn at contacts to  the point of mechanically getting out of order or becoming intermittent . Usually the driver window position  . Also the 

push on small loop wire connections a little flimsy , bad connections  

I have taken apart maybe 20 -30 of them scrounging parts from seldom used positions to fix bad front ones 

You can open but casting often breaks ,don’t overdo the opening bend  — but you can epoxy back in . And add a new bend place , but fragile 

Some  cases will be tossed anyway for parts  So save ugly ones . 

Two things  go wrong , there are two little steel springs — they get rusty if water hits switches . Then toggle is loose and floppy ., Intermittent too .Csn stick on  Clean and oil 

And there is a brass flat spring in some of them  in addition , —- if contacts burn  it can get out of position and hang things up .

Point of all this is hard to tell what you really have without opening , but if from back of car and the low ohms scale is ok , ( under 1 ohm) probably good , if floppy toggle or intermittent etc probably hurt inside .

There are two styles of toggle top , but seem to fit ok , but that complicates a group of 4 

 Right answer is add relays but you would need two per motor , and a new power lead to each place — thought about it  . Kit might be 100 -125 per window , any interest ? 

Also 

looked at adapting later PM motors by Bosch used in 70’s mopars , jeeps etc 

pinion pitch is slightly different ( of course )  mesh won’t wotk  so dropped it . Can do but $ . They would need relay too as polarity reverses in those . 

Our motors are often on edge , scored shafts by rust inside bearing at bottom , and bottom end bearing area in general  becoming a  ball of rust .. Cant fix that, tried several ways   . I have never seen one needing “ rewinding” problem is brush holder and bottom bearing area mechanically destroyed by water  

Critical to seal that plastic water thrower disc to shaft with WS cement and or use valve stem seal . Especially those that face up 

I drill an 060 hole now in center of back cover so if water gets in it will get out . Do not have to open it — put one drop of oil in too . not more than, if it gets in brushes it ruins it 

Drill chips are behind bearing area 

jkg 

On Jul 16, 2024, at 9:31AM, mplindahl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:



Hello All,

 

Is there an easy way to check the working condition of 4-way and 1-way PW switches that are not mounted to the car?  I don’t feel like taking apart the door panels. 

 

I have quite a few that I would like to test and eventually sell. I assume a 12 volt battery and an extra  power window motor or some other way with a volt meter?  Thank you.

 

Regards,

Mark

--
For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/013c01dad784%2478f332b0%246ad99810%24%40sbcglobal.net.

--
For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/4A277199-D58A-431A-AD13-A01C9A6851DD%40gradyresearch.com.

--
For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/01f701dad7a3%2421864660%246492d320%24%40sbcglobal.net.


Home Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network Archive Sitemap


Copyright © The Forward Look Network. All rights reserved.

Opinions expressed in posts reflect the views of their respective authors.
This site contains affiliate links for which we may be compensated.