gauges are mainly about diagnostic work , right? to your point . the critical thing in charging is the weight of refrigerant such that receiver dryer is about half full of liquid when running . James, You really should change to 134 , given all apart ,no oil issues . 12 today is impossible , as guy cannot use his machine for both . Even if it was remotely a good idea . After getting into some frustrating discussions with “ expert “ (again !) about how to determine how much to add to a system down some with a slow leak , — he said he can tell charge from gauges . (!) . Anyone who says that imho simply does not understand how it works . (I know they do it -!) In a crude way yes, if you overfill it The vapor pressure in the receiver dryer stays the same if 1/2” or 3” of liquid refrigerant in there . Just like a propane tank pressure . only temp matters ,,but you don’t care about temp of it ,,only how much . Just like propane So system level gauges will read the same half full or full — Until you overfill … . And AC works ok , the same .with 1/2 or 4” in dryer Today , laws want you to pull out old and hold it , weigh it then add new to get correct charge . Yes,— but really huge hassle to do all that . And very expensive machine .Might disturb oil volume too . Specific to refrigerant too . So thought about it a lot , due to GC jeep with mopar paper thin evaporator ( they all fail ,2000 $ of labor to pull seats console steering wheel and dash to get to it ) then a year later the heater core will go. Repeat . 2$ more cost at factory for 1.5 x thicker stuff , but no …. Before that big tear down , it would run 2-3 months on a charge . So needed to add . How much? So I admit I am very proud of an idea I had ! When running , receiver dryer gets hot from liquid / gas mix from condenser … I noticed one humid day the temp inside the receiver of hot gas / liquid at a cold AM start caused a morning dew on the receiver can to evaporate — I could see a line for a minute , but then it was soon all gone as whole thing gets hot fast Idea!! I squirted it with hose , cooled the top more… gas is much more easy to cool through the metal than bottom ( bottom full of hot liquid) ,— you can tell level in 5 minutes no gauges at all ( still good to check high side pressures , but you gain confidence fast ) Shoot in a portion or all of small can of refrigerant gas on low side with the short line — till half full by noting the temp change line on receiver —- it is a perfect charge even if some already in there . Infrared temp thing might be good too , but i did by watching / feel it , cool it . Same thing happens other way around on grill tanks, you see dew at line where evaporating cools top of propane , that is the level inside . And flame in grill stays lit till empty tank as pressure is about the same unless it gets too cool. Regulator is to deal with psi change with temp … ymmv jg On Jul 7, 2024, at 10:05 AM, M L <granitledge@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: -- For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/6FA06754-224A-4FF5-A7B3-B14BC9A0C520%40gradyresearch.com. |
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