| on this a few cautions , 58 model year can have 57 bushings or for that matter entire 57 front end setup OR “ late 58” , and thus the 59 /60 + type . Others may contest this from parts books but it is for sure true . After much confusion I got into replacing original ball joints etc on D ,trying to resolve it —- I finally found a moog parts counter catalog from the period . it had an asterisk on 58 300 , “check with “moog” , and / or two ball joint numbers . First documented stuff I ever saw on this . The D upgrade is truly significant included better brake setup with the thick backplates and thus different wheel cylinders to fit thicker bigger backplate parts . Similar , 59 Desoto rust free lwb frame I had used on a C had the larger parts .( so went that way on C) I believe ( someone step in ) you can ID by shim type early front end adjustments vs cam bolt? comments welcome but I had this problem . lots of wrong D parts . so two joint numbers ,— each in two sizes . see below . I think the bore of upper CA bushings changed size for the larger cam bolt too . related , people use oil “ to help “ press in . Never ever do that, it destroys the rubber . supposed to be dry but as it can be hard , silicone grease helps rubber . the torsional aspect of rubber matters apparently , i read other warnings to do final tightening of through bolt with suspension loaded , not wheels hanging . second , the moog joints are/ were always replacements in the day and so the thread is lightly oversize to cut new threads over or on top of the old cut ones , requiring high torque ( they had a marketing name for this feature) . However this is NOT clear on box If — as happened to me , — you have a new control arm —- superman could not get those oversize joints into a new arm Other way around you get an OEM factory part ( for a new control arm ) it falls into an old cut thread, too loose ? ball joint can unscrew itself ? but still captive in bottom arm given load direction Been there too. After much worrying and grinding of teeth , i did a calc on psi of JB iron filled epoxy and used the looser OEM one in a used control arm . Not saying to do that ever , to others , but i was happy with it for myself been ok 6-7 years .It was not “ loose” just not tight enough to reach the torque they tell you you need while cutting thread . apply epoxy liberally and drive home . Cannot unscrew imho I am not sure about timing of steering box changes too that happened around that time leaving huge “ coaxial “ box behind around 58 Just info for people who may encounter all this for the first time .( not mentioned in this post ) John g
-- Sent from my iPhone On Jan 16, 2024, at 1:06 PM, micke.sundbom <micke.sundbom@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
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